Question about Nintendo 64 Console

10 Answers

No output from power supply

Power supply wont start up; line input voltage OK and rectified mains appears at filter capacitor in "live" side of supply, but no 12 volt or 3.3 volt output from supply.
can I get a schematic diagram or description of any likely components which will cause this

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  • 4 more comments 
  • squera1 Sep 14, 2008

    I could have decided to replace the whole power supply without the help of an "expert'; I want to try fixing this one!

  • squera1 Sep 15, 2008

    the suggested links deal with adapting n64 to wii, but don't detail power supply, or offer portable battery supply; neither gives any helpful info on N64 power supply

  • squera1 Sep 21, 2008

    AUSTRALIAN POWER SUPPLY ALREADY HAS 47MIC 400V CAP

  • squera1 Sep 22, 2008

    thanks Charcois; my problem is the "brick" isn't giving any output volts, not that I haven't got one; I'm trying to find information to repair it rather than replace it

  • squera1 Sep 29, 2008

    the unit DOES NOT WORK because the POWER SUPPLY DOES NOT GO.

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10 Answers

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  • Master
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Hi,

I am assuming that you are very familiar with electronic circuitry and components, use of a DVM and a soldering iron. In the absence of a schematic diagram, and since you have perform initial voltage checks, perhaps you can wing it. Your "brick" will have to follow the basic design of an SMPS (switch mode power supply). Simply stated,an SMPS is an AC to DC to high freq AC then to lo V DC converter. Per your post, you have checked that there is DC (B+) from the AC mains, then what is needed is to check if there is oscillation to produce the high freq AC. Often design calls for an optical coupler, a small rectangular looking component with four pins, two at each end. This is nothing more than a LED and a Light Dependent transistor. Its function is to switch/trigger on the oscillation (and therefore start the SMPS producing the lo B+s).

Again, since there is no readily available schematic diagram, might I suggest that you post back the part numbers of the ICs and transistors. What we can do is pull out their spec/data sheets and/or application diagrams. Such would give us a general idea of the working voltages at what pins and what each component is supposed to do. Example, let us say your power supply uses a 817A/0635 opti coupler and/or an SG5841DZ controller IC, then we can search for them as initially described.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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Hi,
buy a new wire would be the best thing to do. Pawn shops or super Nintendo or game cube wires r all the same as n64. You can order it from the company itself.... Have any queries please let me know..
Thank you.......

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

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If memory serves me correctly, I believe that these are standard switch mode power supplies. Look for a cap in the power supply in the 22 ufd range with a voltage range of 200V or so. Try changing that and let me know if there is any change.

Dan

Posted on Sep 24, 2008

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  • 208 Answers

Hi,
From your query above , i came to know that your problem is with the power chord or the adapter.
i want you to refer to the follwing website to troubleshoot your console.

http://www.nintendo.com/consumer/systems/nintendo64/trouble_other.jsp

There are also some safety precautions which can avoid the future failures.

Thanx for using fixya,
Hope my info is helpful,
Bye.

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

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  • Master
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You did check the fuse first right... second.... at what point are you getting voltage.... before or after the step down transformer ?


Robert

Posted on Sep 22, 2008

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Sep 22, 2008

    not just visually either with a multimeter to check for continuity



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  • 1,952 Answers

The Nintendo Wii Power Supply AC 100-240V If you have an imported Wii and want to use it in the UK or simply need a spare or wii replacement power supply, this item is for you.

Product Features:

Input: AC 100-240V
Output: DC 12V 4A
Automatic Burst mode in low loading condition
Overvoltage input protection with auto restart



If you just want to charge your PSP you can probably recharge
your PSP for about two weeks of playing off of one charge of
this battery.

Just be careful that the plus and minus of the input is
connected correctly or you will blow your fuse.

Because the system converts DC voltage to DC voltage you can
touch the converter board without harm. It generates no heat
so you can simply put your converter in a plastic box.

There you have it a low cost high power high efficiency power
system for your portable electronics.







Posted on Sep 15, 2008

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  • 763 Answers

Heres the info about this link

Nintendo 64 -- 3.3V DC 2.7A, 12V DC 0.8A Nonstandard Plug

The N64 power supply is contained in this specially
designed brick that slides into the back of the unit.
If you don't have one, buy one from Nintendo. Unlike
other companies, they support their products long after
they're considered dead. You can still buy NES adaptors
and stuff from them so the N64 adaptor should be available
for a long time. If for some reason that's not
an option and you need to know the pinouts, here they are.

MALE pinout on power plug itself
_____
|123|
|456|
-----

1,4,5 = -
6 = 12V DC 0.8A
2,3 = 3.3V DC 2.7A

FEMALE pinout on console
_____
|123|
|456|
-----

1,2 = 3.3V DC 2.7 A
3,5,6 = -
4 = 12V DC 0.8A
the adaptor and the power supply is available also on the ebay. you can check it on yourself. hope that helps!


CHARCOIS

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

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  • Master
  • 2,071 Answers

Replaced that electrolytic capacitor by 400volts / 47uf microfarad so it works an auto volts,this is good to your unit.

Hope this may help you;

Regards,
VOTIT

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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  • Nintendo Master
  • 6,487 Answers

You can try checking this links for the schematic for this unit http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/x2wii/index_en.php
http://www.webspawner.com/users/n64wire/n64%20wiring%20diagram.jpg

Hope that helps...........

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

  • Mark Gil
    Mark Gil Sep 15, 2008

    I think it will be better for you now to call Nintendo and ask for that schematic that you're looking or take this unit to a servcie center near you and let them replace it for you...

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  • 19,396 Answers

You need to replace the whole power adapter, there is no free diagramas for it, order spare from Nintendo.

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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C) Look at the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard.
(Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors to be exact)

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1284612

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd_A

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Can they be replaced?
Yes, the Capacitor Plague has been around for a LONG time, and is still affecting us today.
Need guidance in replacing? Post back in a Comment.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCSNWi3UHf4

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/595

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/616

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt?Keyword=Electrolytic+Capacitors&FS=True

You click IN the fields needed.
Leave alone;

1) Manufacturer: The one's presented are of Excellent quality.
2) Tolerance:
3) Product: The capacitor examples that will be shown, ARE of computer grade quality.

4) Operating Temperature Range:

Fields you NEED are the values of the capacitor, and style;

1) Capacitance: Look for -> uf ratings. uf = Microfarad

Capacitors on a personal computer's motherboard; are rated in Microfarads, ( uF), NOT Picofarads. (pF)

2) Voltage

3) Termination Style: -> Radial.
BOTH leads come out of the bottom,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

(Click on the second photo down on the right)

When you have clicked in each field, and clicked on the values, and style; then go to the left, or right side; underneath, and click on -
Apply Filters.

Let's use a 4.7uF / 16 Volt / Radial electrolytic capacitor for an example,

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/_/N-75hqt?P=1z0wrjcZ1z0x565Z1z0z7l5&Keyword=Electrolytic+Capacitors&FS=True

Scroll down.
Look under -> Dimensions - to get the physical size you need.

D) Power Supply:
Whip out your multimeter, and with the Function knob set to DC Voltage, check the 3 main voltage power rails.
(If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line)

Check at the 20-pin ATX main power cable connector.

I use a straightened out paperclip, and insert down into the back of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
The BACK is where the wires go in.

The straightened out paperclip is inserted down into the socket hole, in the Back of the connector; and slides past the insulation of that wire. It MUST touch a metal terminal at the end of the wire.

Every wire going down into that ATX main power cable's connector; ends in a female Molex metal terminal.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volts.
Red wires are 5 Volts.
Yellow wires are 12 Volts.
Black wires are Ground wires.

ALL Orange wires end in ONE central pint in the Power Supply.
This is the 3.3 Volt power rail.
You can test ANY Orange wire, and test the entire 3.3 Volt power rail.

Same with the Red 5 Volt wires, and Yellow 12 Volt wires.
Pick one to test.

Paperclip in Positive socket hole, in 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector.
Plus paperclip in ANY Black wire socket hole.

3.3 Volt, 5 Volt, and 12 Volt wires are POSITIVE wires.

Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter touches Orange, OR Red, Or Yellow wire - paperclip.
Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter touches Black wire paperclip.

Worried about shock?
Naa.
The dangerous voltage is contained in the case of the Power Supply.
100 to 240 Volts AC.

The Power Supply converts this AC voltage into the low DC Voltages stated above.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

NOT saying there may not be a spark!
Connect a wire to a flashlight battery, and touch it to the bulb, and there is gonna be a spark. Just the way electricity works.

This is why I suggest for those who are new at this; to have the Power Supply unplugged from power; and insert two straightened out paperclips, in the socket holes of the ATX main power cable's connector.

Then (Making sure they don't touch each other), plug the Power Supply into power, and touch the paperclips with the probe leads of the multimeter.

Tested 3.3 Volt power rail? (Orange wire)
Then unplug the Power Supply from power, and move the paperclip over to a Red wire socket hole.
Test for 5 Volts.

Same again for the 12 Volt power rail. (Yellow wire)

Or use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a test unit. Perhaps there is a working computer you can borrow one from.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

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Are you sure the Ram Memory is the correct Frequency Rate?
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Wht kind of current comes out?


The computer's switch mode power supply produces DC (direct current) electricity.

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Wavy horizontal lines across the screen


It sounds that the main power supply section to your TV has the fault. The horizontal thik lines that appears crawling down across the screen should be of video 'HUM'. Have you replaced the main filter capacitor at the power supply section? If not, replace it along with the main rectifier. The AC power is rectifed by a bridge and applied ot this main filter capcitor. It will have a capacitance value between 120 to 350MFD 450VDC. Check this section. Measure the rectifed DC voltage acorss this main filter capacitor. It should be around 350VDC, if your home power supply line is 220VAC. If it is 110AC, this DC voltage will be around 165VDC; and it should be. If rectified DC voltage found lower than the input AC voltage, replace the rectifier bridge. In some sets, this bridge section have four diodes. Some other circuits, a bridge rectifier stalk may be used.

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I have a EMACHINE W5243 with a MCP61SM-GM Motherboard. When I press the power button the keyboard lites flash, fans come up to full speed than drop to a slower speed, than I get beeps about every...


Suggest Don, that you check the voltage power rails in the Power Supply, first. Make sure the Power Supply is working correctly.

Power Supply voltages check out, look VERY close at the motherboard.
(Power unplugged to computer, Anti-Static Precautions taken, motherboard OUT in hand )

Reasoning?

http://www.e4allupgraders.info/dir1/motherboards/socketam2/ecsMCP61SM-GM.shtml

eMachines are budget computers. Nothing wrong with that. Problem is the manufacturer saved the consumer on the cost, by using two low quality components.

A) The Power Supply
B) The motherboard

Both of these come up for the BIOS Beep Code you stated.

Power Supply's are usually Bestec, Delta, or HiPro.
These particular generic units use low quality Electrolytic Capacitors, MOSFET's, Rectifier Bridge, less than adequate gauge of wiring, and so on.

The motherboards, (MSI, ECS, TriGem, etc), use low quality Electrolytic Capacitors.
This is generally the item/s that go bad first. They are the 'weakest link'.

Yes, Electrolytic Capacitors are the weakest link in the Power Supply, also.

In the Power Supply they are used as Filters. They filter the incoming AC electricity, (Input Stage), and the outgoing DC electricity. (Output Stage)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

I really feel the problem is the Power Supply.
Why?
1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 Watts of power. Just depends on what Processor it is. (Older Intel Pentium III's, II's, and so on, use less power than 51 Watts. Same with older AMD processors )

(The PSU { Power Supply Unit} in your personal computer is a SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply)

Click on the photo to the upper right, in the link above. The letter B is on the top of an Electrolytic Capacitor. You are looking at a Top View.
The blue ring is part of a plastic sleeve, which goes around the 'can' case of the capacitor.
These large capacitors are in the Input Stage.

The letter E is near a few more Electrolytic Capacitors. These capacitors are in the Output Stage.
These capacitors are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.
This is a side view of an example,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Capacitors_electrolytic.jpg

The top capacitor is an Axial Electrolytic Capacitor. The leads come out of each end. The bottom capacitor is a Radial Electrolytic Capacitor. Both leads come out of the same end. The capacitors in your Power Supply, and on your motherboard, are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

Your Power Supply converts AC electricity form your home, or business, and turns it into low DC electricity.

A) The 3.3 Volt power rail
B) The 5 Volt power rail
C) The 12 Volt power rail.
(In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC )

In the power cables coming from the Power Supply.
1) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
2) Red wires are 5 Volts
3) Yellow wires are 12 Volts
(All DC voltage)
Black wires are Ground wires.

Now, about the voltage power rail.
All 3.3 volt wires (Orange), end in one central 3.3 Volt point, in the Power Supply.
The central point is the 3.3 Volt power rail.

Same for the 5 Volt power rail. All 5 Volt wires (Red), end in one central 5 Volt point, in the Power Supply.
Same for the 12 Volt power rail.

This means, for example, if you test one Orange wire, and it shows 3.3 Volts on the multimeter, the 3.3 Volt power rail is good.
Test one Red wire in a power cable. Shows 5 Volts, or VERY near?
The 5 Volt power rail is good.
Same thing for the 12 Volt power rail.

One method to check the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail.
Use a 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable. (The connector on the cable is misnomered as a 'Molex' connector),

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Most of the time there is an unused Peripheral power cable.
You can use it's Red wire, Yellow wire, and Black wire, to test for 5 Volts, and 12 Volts.

Disregard the following if you are aware;
An economical multimeter can be purchased for around $5 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.
Analog, or Digital, is fine.

The Red lead is the Positive lead. The metal tip is the probe. I refer to both as the Positive probe lead.
The Black lead is the Negative lead.

The Positive probe lead ALWAYS goes to the power wire to be tested.
3.3 Volt, or 5 Volt, or 12 Volt.
The Negative lead ALWAYS goes to Ground. (A-N-Y Black wire, is a Ground wire)

Computer sitting on a table, or workbench, computer case open, 4-pin standard Peripheral power cable, untangled, and pulled to the outside where you can access it easily, the computer is plugged into power.

The center knob in the middle of the multimeter, is the Function Knob.
It is set to DC Voltage.
If there are only symbols, the symbol is a dotted line over a solid line.
(NOT a curved line over a solid line)

If there is more than one setting for DC Voltage, set it to the 0 to 50 Volt scale.

Turn the computer on. Holding the connector in your hand, of the 4-pin Peripheral power cable, insert the Positive probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with the Red wire.

Hold the probe lead, with the hand that is already holding the connector. With the other hand, insert the Negative probe lead's tip, into the socket hole with one of the two Black wires.

Watch the multimeter. You should be reading close to 5 Volts.
Test the 12 Volt wire using this method also. (Yellow wire, and Black wire. Black wire is Ground. Either one of them)

The 3.3 Volt power rail is tested using the Orange wire, in the 24-pin ATX main power cable.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Power cable plugged into the motherboard, as in the photo to the right.
At the end of every wire, going into that long whitish connector with 24 socket holes, is a metal terminal.

The metal terminal is pretty far down in the socket hole. The probe lead must touch the metal terminal, but cannot due to it's size.
Use a straightened out paper clip.

The paper clip's diameter is small enough to slide into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the Orange wire, and touch the metal terminal.
Then the Positive probe lead is held against it. (Or with an alligator clip attachment, it is clipped on)

Do the same for A-N-Y of the Black wires. They are all Ground wires. Pick one. Insert a straightened out paper clip. The Negative probe lead touches it.
(Paper clips inserted, THEN computer turned on. It is only 3.3 Volts DC, but I want you to feel safe)

More in a Comment.

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Onida 21''ctv picture coming in stamp type {cutting from four sides}


Hello
Replace its Horizontal output Transistor. If the base-emitter junction has a leak inside it, this type of fault will occur. Before replacing it, check the main DC voltage to LOT [Line Output Transformer]. It should come around 102VDC. If there is not this much voltage, check the electrolytic filter capacitor connected across thie supply line to main negative for open or value developed. Replace the same is good. Till there is low voltage found, check the retifier diode that rectifies this 102 volt DC. If all the above are OK and still you get a stamp like raster, check the heat of the Horizontal Output Transistor described above. if it overheats, LOT is defective and should be replaced with same type and number. OK.

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A. Visualize any bulging capacitors, replace them. B. Measure the voltage across the following section in particular order so we can find the faulty parts.
  1. the AC input on the Power supply board. (none means open switch or power cable)
  2. the AC after the line filter circuit. (none means open line filter)
  3. the DC on the filter capacitor. (none means problem on the rectifier)
  4. then the AC on the switching element or input on the main transformer. (most likely you won't have any voltage reading hear.)if you do have continue.... (none means you scratch your head, this is the hardest part) check all low value resistors, high wattage resistors open or shorted diodes.
  5. the dc on the secondary filter capacitors.
If not have this checked by a technician, its to complicated for you.

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After reviewing the schematic, I don't understand how the Phantom power can REMAIN on with the power switch off... this CANNOT occur except for what energy is left in the 48 volt supply filter cap... This might last for minutes after the fuse went... UNLESS you have devices connected which are backfeeding the 48 volts. (which would be a disaster)

The 48 volts, +/- 12 volts and +/- 15 volts and the +5 volts ALL come from the SAME switching power supply. I suspect one of the filter caps went or the primary switching regulator a TDP245Y chip.

You should ONLY work on the line side of this using an ISOLATION transformer since the line side has lethal voltages.

To do testing, one replaces the fuse and puts a 60 Watt light bulb in series with the hot side of the inout line. The lamp "acts" as a resetable fuse and limits the current for testing. When all is well again, the lamp will remain out with the power flowing through it.

The D1 diode bridge and C7 input rectifier and filter are first things to check. You can do those with an ohmmeter.

I will caution you to ALWAYS power any and all equipment from the SAME power source. Plugging in devices from across the room will set up ground loops and any ground fault will fry equipment.

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What is the power input voltage required to operate the phonic 1805x audio mixer? is this an AC, or DC input? unit missing power supply and needs to be bench tested for possible future use. no manual...


i have seen the manual. most mixers use ac mains supply with smps inside with +48V for phantom and ur mixer is one of those. u will see a three pin mains connector at the back. but phonic made these mixers for different countries. for us/canada 110~120Vac/60Hz - for uk/australia  230~240Vac/50Hz, europe/ asia 220~230Vac/50Hz.
Look for these or a voltage selector near the power input terminal. if u do not find any of these one sure way of finding which mains supply u should use is to open the case and look at the biggest rectifier filter capacitor on the smps board. 110~120V supply will have capacitors working voltage around 250Vdc and for the others around 400Vdc working voltage. (eg 1000uF, 250V or 1000uF, 400V)
so depending on the DC working voltage of the filter capacitor and country u either step up or step down the mains supply. 
18Vac supply will never work.!
the rated mains voltage sometimes are printed on the smps board itself. Hope this helps. 

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The LED on my HIPRO D3057F3R power supply is illuminated but the fan does not run. Does this mean that the power supply is bad?


Yes, it does.
More than likely Electrolytic Capacitors, have gone bad in the power supply.

Electrolytic Capacitors are used in the Input, and Output stage of the HiPro power supply, as Filters.

In the Input stage they filter the incoming AC voltage.
In the Output stage they filter the rectified AC.

(AC is rectified into DC. The capacitors are filtering DC at this point.
AC = Alternating Current
DC = Direct Current
A flashlight battery is an example of stored DC)

The HiPro power supply you have produces three main voltages. Three voltage Rails.
A.3.3 Volts
B.5 Volts
C.12 Volts

When Electrolytic Capacitors go bad, or are failing, there is a weak voltage rail.

HiPro power supply's are cheaply mad.
1.The wiring is too small. (The gauge of the wire is below standards)

2.The Electrolytic Capacitors are of low quality.

3.The rectifier bridge has cheap diodes, and too small of a heatsink.

I could go on, and on.

When you have a power supply with a weak voltage rail, there is not enough power for the Processor.

1.ALL the lights use less than 1 Watt.
2.EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts.
3.A typical Processor can use 55 to 125 Watts!
[Depends on what processor it is.

This is why lights - light, and sometimes fan's will spin, but the computer won't run.
Not enough power for the Processor.

Solution?
Replace the power supply.

Viewing this link,

http://www.pcmarketusa.com/product_view.aspx?product_ID=18498

,you can see the HiPro D3057FR3 power supply has just the usual ATX shape, and size.
The ATX 'Form Factor' power supply, is used in approximately 90 percent of computer towers.

[Form Factor usually denotes towards a motherboard. An ATX form factor motherboard is 9.6 inches by 12 inches. Form Factor means the size, and shape.
The Form Factor designation, has been used towards certain hardware parts in a computer, as well as the computer case, but this is erroneously used. It does make it easier to identify with, though. That's why I used it here]

Point I'm getting to?
1.See if you have another Known, GOOD, ATX power supply to use for a test. Test my statements above before you go out, and buy another power supply.

Do you have another computer that has a good power supply, but may have other issues, that you can borrow the power supply out of, to use for a test?

Another thing. This manufacturer overstates the actual rated Wattage. The actual wattage is more like 70 percent of what is stated.
They state 300 Watts - Maximum, but in reality it is more like 210 Watts.

It is for this reason, and the reason that components used in the above power supply are cheap, that I would recommend buying a different power supply, than buying another HiPro.

(Therefore,.NO, I do not recommend the one in the link above, as a direct replacement)

What power supply that fits your needs would I recommend, that is a decent quality power supply, and won't break the bank?

This one,

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4675269&CatId=106

OCZ StealthXStream 400 Watt.
Why?
Because it has 80 percent of the true rated wattage.
320 Watts actual.
Because it is reliable.
Because it has all the power cables you need.
Because it is $28 USD after the rebate.

I'm sticking my neck out recommending a particular power supply here, as this goes against our TOS, but if you have no background in this area, how are you going to know what to look for?

I am not recommending the website. But I have used them repeatedly, and always to my satifaction.

Any questions?

Nov 27, 2009 | Hi-Pro (HPP303W) 300-Watt Power Supply

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