The 48-59-0255 Milwaukee charger has no Power indication, and won't charge batteries. It has 119 volts at the incoming line. I don't know where to go from there to check what part is bad.

hi Terry.
you could try homebase.or ebay will have them.
or this link should show you where you can buy them.
battery charger for ozito drill Google Search

Batteries must be stored on a full charge. For extended periods they should be disconnected. If your batteries are flat/dead the charger will not attempt to charge them. You should remove your batteries and check and try to charge them individually. Sometimes they will come alive, must of the time they won't. Charge them individually with a 12 volt 2 amp charger - no higher; or in series with a 24 volt 4 amp charger.

Dear Mathew,

You should you Dell Utility and it has the function called Dell Battery Metter, it can enable or disable charging

When you say it won't charge, does it charge at all?
1. It indicates that it is charging, but as soon as you unplug the charger the battery quickly or immediately indicates it is dead. If the laptop is off, the LED on the laptop shows it is charging but the battery is always dead,

Or: 2. It is as if you didn't have the charger plugged in. No light on the laptop at all when the charger is plugged in.

Possible solutions:
1. The battery has died and is no longer capable of taking a charge. An alternate explanation if you can't even get the laptop to turn on even though the laptop charge LED is on, is that the internal power supply that converts the incoming and battery voltage to all the voltages required has died.
Or: 2. The power connector inside the laptop is a common failure point. The solder joints break from various minor shocks over time. This is going to become more common with lead-free solder as it is more brittle. Less likely is that the charging circuit inside the laptop has failed.

http://www.chargerbuy.com/laptop-ac-adapter/universal-ac-adapters.html

I had the same problem with the P10 not charging via USB, I purchased mine second hand so it came with no charger. I assumed it would charge by the USB cable but it did not, the red light flashes but doesn't charge. Luckily I have an external battery charger for a different camera i got some years ago that takes a similar battery , the P10 battery didn't fit properly so I had to place it at a 45 degree angle into the charger making sure the outer contacts were lined up properly and taped it into place. After an hour it was fully charged and the camera is working fine. The charger is a 4.2 volt charger. New external chargers can be picked up on ebay cheaply

Most battery chargers are trickle type chargers - that is, they provide a constant low current (under an amp) output at 12 - 15 volts to keep the battery charge up. This small charging current is handled easily by a #14 or #12 wire which will pass up to 2 or 16 amps consistently, respectively (the larger cables off the battery are for the starter motor).

If you're having trouble maintaining a charge on the battery, a careful check of the charging circuit is required. Look for loose or corroded connections - at the battery in particular, open or blown fuses on the input (120 volt) side of the charger and the 12 volt output side (if provided). Battery acid is conductive. This means if there is a path of battery acid from one post to the other - no matter how long or short the path - the battery will discharge through this path. Neutralize (with baking soda) and clean any battery acid from the area to be sure the battery isn't discharging faster than the trickle charger can charge it. You can check the output of the charger with a DC voltmeter. Simply press the test leads to the battery posts and some value above 11.5 volts (11 - 12.75 volts may not be uncommon). Look at the chart below to get an idea of the charge of a lead acid battery



With the battery disconnect from the charger (or the charger powered off), the meter should show indicate 12 volts (even if practically dead) without a load. That's why it is important to load the battery when trying to get a voltage reading from it. Many auto parts stores sell and loan battery load / meters expressly for this purpose. They look like this:




If you have a battery that won't stand up under load, you may have a a problem with acid / distilled water level or even a dead cell. You can not check these variables in a maintenance free battery however. If you have removable caps on the battery, check and top off the level with distilled water only to a "full" or "high" level mark. A hydrometer can be used to determine the charge of each cell in the battery. These can be had for under $10 in most auto parts stores, too. They look like this:


Make sure you get one to check the specific gravity of battery acid - NOT to check anti-freeze level protection - they look similar.

Good luck!

The battery is 12 volts and to charge use a 2-10 amp charger.

ON UR CHARGER U WILL FIND: Diagnostics with LED indicator are 5 indicators to communicate battery charge status: charged, charging, power line problem, replace pack, and battery too hot or too cold.

No, it's showing that the battery is either not taking a full charge or the charger is not charging the battery properly. Find a Milwaukee service center, they will check them and most likely replace one or the other.

check the voltage of the batteries before charging. Place on the charger and wait 1/2 hour or so, then recheck voltage. If it has not gone up, your charger is at fault.