Can these amps be BOOSTED to 50 watts rms? - Marshall 15 Watt Guitar Amp

Those specs would be right - I have this same board but the amp was fried by a previous owner. I pulled the amp board out and tossed it and use the mixer now to drive an external amp. Great board. This amp is rated at 1200W "peak", bridged into an 8ohm load. That would equate to about 900W RMS bridged into 8ohm or 450 per side into 4ohm loads per side. You can't daisy chain all 4 speakers....impedance would be too low. You can run two of your 8ohm speakers per side - that results in a 4ohm load per side for the amp. That would give you amp delivery of 450W per side. Your speakers are rated to handle more than that so you're fine. For the record.....you could run one speaker per side no problem....just lower power output.

You can do that but your subs will have to be monsters or you will blow them out as bridged mode will drive 2400 watts RMS into 4 ohms. Many speakers are rated in peak or program power... these are FAKE specifications. with this amp in bridged mode each of two identical speakers would have to be rated at 2400 watts program or about 3600 watts peak each to survive... When rating speakers and amps ALWAYS compare RMS values... and for safety use an amp of 80% of the RMS rating of the connected speaker or speaker system.

If you failed to turn off the amp before changing speaker cables you have fried something. Since the plug shorts when unplugging, if the amplifier were on, the amp would sense the short and will often fry the amplifier or the speaker. You don't mention what the amplifier was. If the speaker were daisy chained to other equipment a ground loop probably formed and blew out the woofer. The horn often has Peavey's "SoundGard" circuit so it probably survived. NEVER change speaker cables while amp is on. ALWAYS secure the 1/4 inch type cables through the handle of cabinets so they can'tbe inadvertenly pulled out and burn up equipment. Your amplifier driving one of these should be rated at no more than 200 watts RMS. These "400 watt Prrogram" ratings are for the birds... fake advertising. Put 400 watts into this RMS and it blows out.

The 600 watt rating is FAKE like most of our advertising and will be either 600 watts PEAK or 600 watts PROGRAM. If it is Peak, use an amplifier with no more than 100 watts a side RMS... If it is program rating use an amp with no more than 150 watts a side RMS but that is pushing it for speaker safety. Also pay attention to the spec of the amp as to what it will output at the impedance of the speakers. I read the spec on the speakers... they are rated 150 watts RMS, NOT 600 watts... Use an amp rated at 150 watts RMS MAXIMUM at 4 ohms per side. Also don't turn up the bass excessively or you be buying new speakers. Twelve inch speakers would be adequate for a 20 by 20 room at SAFE listening levels. If you want driving bass, you need to get an 18 inch subwoofer.

If there are stereo effects , like chours and delay it more than likely has 2 90watt amps

The SP2 speakers are rated at 1000 watts PROGRAM which is around 500 watts RMS MAXIMUM. You should be using an amp capable of a maximum of 500 watts a side... Your amp is WAY too big. You will have to throttle it down. The speakers have the protection for the tweeters but NOT for the woofers. At five hundred watts RMS and 8 ohms the current is: P = I^2 * R so I^2 = 500/8 = 62.5 so MAX current is 7.9 amps. I recommend you put a 8 amp FAST BLOW fuse in the speaker leads. If the fuse blows, you have saved another speaker and you are DRIVING them too hard. For greater safety make the fuse a 7.5 amp fast blow. Also get a sound meter. The max on these speakers is 125 Db at a meter distance... and in your venue you should NOT exceed 100 Db to be safe with the OSHA regulations regarding hearing protection... I suspect you are driving the speakers too hard. One side may be getting more bass. The speakers are rated down to 55 Hz. DO NOT boost bass up as you will overheat the speakers. If you are using microphones, be careful of feedback, especially that above hearing range. If you need real low bass, then get an 18 inch subwoofer. No matter, stay within safe sound levels to avoid lawsuits and hearing loss... I know several deaf musicians...

Peavey uses a protection network and sometimes it gets blown when too much power is sent to the speaker. The speaker may be blown however. Peak power for this is 800 Watts and 400 Program... That is NOT RMS power. Make sure your amp is no bigger than 300 Watts RMS driving this. If you are REAL lucky, maybe a lead has fallen off the speaker... Open the unit inspect and test the components.

Well... you probably won't like this, but here is some info: In bridged mode, a different Speakon to speaker cable is required from only the B... it is wired differently and you can only use one of the plugs. The speaker or speaker system CANNOT be less than 8 ohms in bridged mode... this precludes using speakers in parallel or multiple speakers that are less than 16 ohm impedance... such speakers are NOT commonly available as most are either 4 or 8 ohm. There is a slide switch for bridged mode on the face of the mixer. Next thing you won't like... The 1200 Watts specification is PEAK power, NOT RMS... You can get 400 watts RMS per side USING 4 ohm speakers. If you use 8 ohm speakers, each of those will get 200 watts. I use this mixer myself and ALSO repair them. The voltage swing at the outputs is about +/-60 volts MAX (peak). This is about 40 volts RMS by the time the circuit LOSSES are taken into account. Across a 4 ohm speaker you get 10 amps times the 40 volts or 400 watts. Across an 8 ohm you get 5 amps or 200 watts. The voltage rails in the switching amp are +/-70 volts DC so these are reasonable values. Bridged mode just uses both sides of the amp driven in opposite directions for higher voltage out BUT you have to use no less than a single 8 ohm speaker so there is NO advantage to bridged mode power wise. IF YOU NEED more power, use extra speakers from an additonal amp driven by the 1/4 TRS mains output jacks OR use additonal POWERED speakers driven from the same jacks. Please read my tip about the hazard regarding the SLEEVE of the cahnnel A cable when using Speakon to 1/4 plug cables being the HOT and the tip being the cold for channel A. Ground the sleeve accidentally and goodbye channel A amp...

I am not sure how you are measuring the power output to verify it is less than 200 watts. With a true RMS voltmeter you should see 28.28 volts RMS across a net speaker load of 4 ohms. If you use only one 8 ohm speaker, you will get 120 watts. If you are getting the 28 volts there is nothing wrong with the amp. You MAY have blown the speakers OR not generating much bass due to processing in an EQ. I assume you are using at least 15 inch speakers if you want to feel bass. Look up your speakers specs... you will need speakers capable of 32 Hz to feel much. With this amp your speakers should have aa total rating not less than 400 to 600 peak watts or around 300 watts RMS continuous power rating. Using a lot of high end EQ will keep the amp busy at the high end and reduce the power available at the bass end.

speakers are rated at 4800 Watts "program"... for safety, I would use an amp that can deliver around 1200 Watts RMS.