SOURCE: Do Not Use A Heat Gun On Your Xbox 360! Send It In To Microsoft! Find Out Why Here!
If you are looking for an Xbox 360 3 Red Lights Fix do not use any guide that suggest a heat gun fix!
Although a heat gun is used sometimes you are better sending it in to Microsoft to do the work!
If you buy any guide with the heat gun fix ask for a full refund you will need it!
If you still want to fix it yourself then click the link below and get
a FREE preview of an easy 30 minute fix that does not use a heat gun:
Xbox 360 Repair
SOURCE: Heat Guns Troubleshooting
Uses for the heat gun include: * drying paint or varnish - 30 to 130 °C - care has to be taken as dust particles may be blown onto the paint/varnish. * drying out damp wood (before filling or painting) - around 100 to 200°C. * softening adhesive (such as when applying worktop edge trim or lifting floor tiles) - 300 to 400°C. * bending plastic pipes - 200 to 300°C. * heat-shrinking plastic film - 200 to 300°C. * welding some plastics - 330 to 400°C.
SOURCE: Weller model 550PK heavy-duty soldering gun is slow to heat up
It depends on what you say is slow, I have used weller soldering guns and desoldering guns for about 30 years. They come up to top heat in about 3min. If it is taking longer than that then there is a problem with the heating unit. You can call weller tech help number, should be on iron base and they can tell you how to test the heat unit.
SOURCE: i have a brand new makita hg5002k heat gun,i use
do you make sure to cool it down after use before switching off.
if switched off imediately after using on hot, the heat from the elements will keep increasing , causing short life of heating element and maybe the gun has a thermal trip that needs to cool down before it will switch back on. This sounds like what is happening with your machine.
shutdown instructions are in the users manual.
hope this helps
SOURCE: Dryer does not heat up.
The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, generally, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
When testing a diode you need to lift one end of the component to prevent a second path of continuity. If you lift one end, and you have continuity in both directions when reversing the polarity, it would be shorted or defective. Does your Fluke have a Diode or Semiconductor setting? This will show you the voltage drop for the N/P junction which will be a better test than using the Ohm setting. If the diodes check good, test the motor windings, switch and heating element.
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