Rewired the motor on the dw746 from 110 to 220. motor smoked and quit. rewired to 110 attempted start and motor was dead. induction motors are hard to kill. was wondering if could be a capacitor or switch? what is your thought?

Appears to be a capacitor start induction motor? Please always include full 'make model (what it is)'.
2000 - PTH491A01 Abstract: PTH491 PTH7M PTH491B PTH491A murata pth7m CSR B capacitor start induction motor capacitor start run motor permanent split capacitor induction motor
Text: PTH7M330MD3 PTH491 Series PTH491A01AR3R3N160 PTH491A01AR4R7N180 PTH491A01AR6R8N200 PTH491A04AR6R8N225 PTH491A01AR100N225 PTH491A04AR100N315 PTH491A01AR150N250 PTH491A04AR150N355 PTH491A01AR220N300 PTH491A04AR220N400 PTH491A01AR330N355 PTH491A04AR330N450 PTH491A01AR470N400 PTH491A04AR470N500 Resistance Value (Ohms) at 25°C 33 ± 20 , PTH491A01AR3R3N160 4.5 15 SPECIFICATIONS Resistance Value (Ohms) at 25°C Fail-Safe Plug on Type PTH7M Series , No. 187 STARTING SYSTEMS OF MOTORS Type PTH491A01 PTH7M-B3 Starting PTH491B01 Capacitor Start

The videos in here might help you test and diagnose

https://www.google.com/search?safe=off&rlz=1C1QJDB_enCA643CA644&sxsrf=ALeKk01mSl_owI3xivd-EfTNmFVnNiSBHQ%3A1613586207983&ei=H18tYITEO4md_QavnK2QDw&q=testing+capacitor+start+induction+motor


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10gage cables?
does engine turn by hand? if not,its seized.
the starter can pull 500 amps. (if cold) its called a series wound motor.
and the harder the engine turns, the more amps and HP from this
electric motor. id turn it by hand, if you can turn the engine crank
by hand than try real jumper cable (they cost more) and if they
fail the starter is jammed, or is shorted.
starters can be dead, shorted, open, weak, or jammed.
if the engine spins, take the starter to any autostore, they test it for free.

The people from Lowes were right.
There are two types of motor designs: Induction motors and brush-type motors.
All electric motors that have brushes make sparks where the brushes contact the rotating commutator. They also run less efficiently but they are a bit smaller than induction motors for equal power output. Brushed motors can also deliver greater power at initial startup.
Because the sparks in brushed motors create heat, the housing around the motors typically have ventilation slots for air to go through to keep the commutator cool. This means you are likely to see the sparks if you look in the right place.
Since it's more difficult to get an induction motor turning, they typically have a "start capacitor" mounted on the side of the motor to give an extra kick to get the stator turning. While induction motors use less power when running, the amperage they use at start-up is typically double the running amperage.

Motor terminal box sometimes has a connection diagram inside the lid.

Basically a single phase induction motor has a run winding and a start winding and to reverse the direction the connections to one winding, usually the start winding, must be reversed and that is the function of the lathe switch.

Single phase motors are easily damaged and so if any doubt exists I strongly suggest you ask a motor specialist for assisstance.

is the flame igniting and then cutting off? on a gas furnace, the induction fan motor(draft motor) should start first (if the furnace is so equipped), then the flame, then the blower. if you have an induction motor (flue gas exhaust mmotor) this may be your problem (the induction motor isn't starting), if your unit doesn't have one, have you checked to see that you have gas? finally, the capacitor on the blower motor may be causing the motor not to start.

Are you getting white smoke or no smoke from the exhaust after failed start attempts?
When the FICM was replaced, did Ford check the glow plugs and injectors for proper operation?
Are you using an engine oil heating element or is the engine dead cold when this happens?
How long does the engine run the first and second start attempts before it stalls and dies?

If motor has been smoking, the electrical insulation has been compromised, not much fixing to that, I suggest using the unit till it quits, then replace

The type of motor that uses a centrifugal switch, a brushless induction motor is considered too large and heavy for a portable vacuum cleaner though they are often found in permanent installations.

Portable vacuum cleaners use a series wound motor that is considerably smaller and lighter for a given power output and turns many times faster.

Both types of motor will hum if seized or locked and in that condition the series wound motor will soon destroy itself. It takes a little longer for the induction motor to overheat...

The centrifugal switch is not fitted to all induction motors and that is usually very reliable and rarely gives trouble except when unused for a long time in damp conditions.
Many single phase induction motors with or without the switch use a starting capacitor and sometimes a start/run capacitor. Often the capacitor is of inferior quality and will fail with the result the motor will just hum, though will start when the shaft is spun by hand.

No Brand? I think you mean big noise and smoke? Smoke can be from a burning belt or dying motor. If it smells like burning rubber you likely have something jamming the brush roll. Otherwise suspect the bang came from a motor fan. Do not attempt to run. disassemble and inspect

That must be a pretty big door opener. Problem is probably the motor's starting current draw. Most AC induction motors pull 5 to 7 times their rated running current when starting from a dead stop. (about 7,820 watts) That's much more than the surge capacity of a 2.4 Kw inverter. Sounds like you need a bigger inverter or a smaller door motor.