Does it make sense that a frigidaire plhs67egsb3 refrigerator freezer could stop working simply from overloading? The compressor is running, the condenser coil was clean but the evaporator coil was frozen and now everything works fine since simply letting it thaw out.

I would check to see if the compressor is running(humming or making a continuous noise). The compressor is in the back of the freezer and approximately the size of a football.

If is not running but you do have power, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
The compressor
The Thermostat
The overload, relay, or capacitor
The defrost timer
The condenser fan motor

You might need to call a repairman.



You might

possibly thermal overload located @ compressor wiring... this is normally due lack of refrigerant back to the compressor from low refrigerant or restricted metering device.

its the ptc overload relay on the side of the compressor body,it aids in starting the compressor by momentarily putting your start and run windings in parallel to overcome" locked rotor current",then drops out start windings after unit has come up to operating speed,it also protects the windings if the compressor cant start,they simply unplug off the compressor and the replacement plugs in the same,replace the capacitor connected to this if applicable as this protects the ptc's overload relay contacts

Start relay.

Compressor is bad the clicking noise is the Start Relay/Overload is kicking on and off. compressor is warm because it's trying to start but can't Frigidaire is known for bad compressors. I don't think the Start Relay/Overload is bad because the compressor gets warm.

freezers have safety devices to protect themselves. The compressor has an internal overload to keep it from overheating. some have external reset buttons and some do not. either way the cause must be corrected. if the freezer was low on refrigerant you would see signs of oil near the coils, tubing, or compressor. If there is no leak, it overheats when there is airflow restrictions(dirty coils) or a fan has stopped working. only a few screws keep you from seeing all there is to see. If it is clean and the fan is running, then the compressor may just be the culprit

The first thing that I would look at is the compressor relay. The relay gives extra windings in the motor, power to get the compressor up to speed. It is a small thing that carrys a heavy load. (MORE)

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there are no fuses on a domestic freezer that i have ever seen. there are no fans and there are no traditional freezer coils. so you have only a few things that could be going on. if the temp is way up the thermostat should sense hot and close and send power to the compressor and it should run. you can do one of two things . find the thermostat inside the freezer usually . gently remove cover and check incoming terminal and outgoing terminal. if you show 120 volts its open and the stats bad. if you don't show 120 volts between terminal connections then its closed and the compressor is failing to start. if power is coming into the stat when checked to ground then go to compressor and see if there are starting components . they are a start capacitor and a START RELAY AND PERHAPS A OVER LOAD . SEE IF POWER IS ARRIVING AT THE COMPRESSOR. IF SO CHECK THE MICROFARED OUTPUT OF THEcapacitor . you need within 10 percent of the rated value. also you can gently remove the overload , a little plastic disc and look on the bottom side and see if its cracked or burned looking. an amp probe on the compressor will tell you what amps it pulls if it trys to fire up . 6 to 10 is good 30 to 50 is mechanically locked up and then the overload trips. if compressor is ice cold to touch then your not getting power to the compressor and its not trying to run. if its hot to the touch thens its trying but start caps weak , or its locked up. most domestic freezers are not worth the cost of a new compresssor anymore. good luck

i dont think so i would look at the compressor kicking out on thermal overload or a faulty thermostat thermostats have two settings cut in cut out your cut in could be bad and not turning the compressor on till the temp reaches melting temps now if your hearing a click buzz then you need to look at the compressor and make sure the compressor fan is running but its not a defrost promblem

compressor is running overloaded possible problems bad relay/overload /capacitor dirty or clogged condensers if the unit uses a condenser fan suspect a bad fan. and defective thermostats are notorious for short cycling. id check the coils first and if dirty clean up maybe that can be the major problem.