Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore 110.24832200 Spin Cycle not working. What can I do

Posted by shalema2003 on

  • shalema2003 Aug 07, 2008

    thanks, it is working now

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1 Answer

Jeff Rockwell

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Does the washer fill? Does it agitate at all? Does it stop suddenly when it gets to the spin cycle? You may have a defective lid switch. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (Part number 3949238). For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the washer does not agitate at all, but will still drain, the problem may be your motor coupling. Click on this link for instructions on how to replace a motor coupling:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The part can be located under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading as item number 13 (Part number 285753A). NOTE: If the coupler is bad, the washer will made a loud rattling noise when it starts to agitate. The washer will STILL drain, however. There also may be black filings under the washer.

Neither one of these repairs are that difficult, nor are they expensive. You may find these parts cheaper at repairclinic.com. Just use the part numbers provided.

I posted both links to save the time on having to post comments back and forth. Use your abilities to determine what the washer is (or isn't) doing. If you are confused by the symptoms and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS If you are in the habit of placing items on your washer lid (like detergent bottles or clothes baskets, etc.), the lid can bend or bow. This can also cause the same symptoms of a bad lid switch. All you have to do is open the lid and pop it back the other way from the bottom. I've seen it happen before and should have charged the customer for a service call according to company policy, but didn't. I mention it because, appliance repair companies can (and will) charge you for this repair just for touching the machine.

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

  • stevrigg1 Sep 22, 2011

    i found the lid switch broken in two pieces when i pulled it out. the wiring goes through a tray that is a little tricky to reinstall after repairing switch. fabulous tip here. thanks
    steve

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore model 110 washer will not drain at end of wash cycle

It could be the lid switch or the timer.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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modelamac

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: Have Kenmore Washer..Model #

Does the lid switch work? You should hear a faint click when opening and closing the lid. If not, replace lid switch.

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

oldguy5

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Top loading Kenmore (mod 24832200) doesnt spin rinse or spin cycl

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24832200

The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

See the following for how to access the console.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=61f80e08f3f0ad9fa07bd1a70b21c4cd

This is the Whirlpool PDF on installation and maintenance of direct drive washers. See the section on how to bypass the lid switch and on the transmission.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

If everything else works OK,, including the drain, and the timer moves, the problem could be in the transmission / gearcase.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode. Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again. The Sears site for your washer may have a sub-component section on the gearcase with a part number for the Neutral Drain Assembly repair kit.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

With ours, all told, it cost less than $30 (including new 80-90 weight gear oil) vs. about $170 for a new transmission.

The job is a bit complicated and messy but not too difficult.


Posted on Nov 12, 2009

beamerguy740

beamerguy740

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore 80 series model 110 24832200

These machines are direct drive and have a plastic drive coupler which fails. Unplug machine and pull away from wall careful of water and drain connections. Tilt machine back for access to bottom look for the drive coupler between the motor and transmission. It is white plastic on each end with a black rubber piece sandwiched in between. You should be able to tell if it is broken by just moving it by hand. Replace this part and you should be back in business.

Posted on Apr 18, 2010

oldguy5

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: TURNS ON WATER WORKS/NOT AGITATING/NOT SPING

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24832200

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Two possibilities. (Most likely the second but it won't hurt to test the first possibility):


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


Posted on May 03, 2010

Testimonial: "thankd for the time ! great ideas !! thank you "

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