I am replacing the gsw-34 3 sp. pull chain switch . i have the wires marked. do i have to cut the wires off the old switch or do they release somehow? they are the stab connectors.

You can buy it online from Hover Global. Please visit: http://www.hover.global/hercules.html

First you have to get the correct replacement switch ( that's the hard part ). Mark down what color wire goes into which slot in switch. Each slot should be marked 1,2,3 & L. Now you push something in the slot to release the wire (paper clip or something a little thicker). DO NOT CUT THE WIRES! Insert wires in same position in new switch.

I think this is what you are looking for.

Hi Chris,

According to page 31 of the brochure, the switch accepts up to a #18 gauge wire ans is suitable for a 6 amp load at 125 volts or a 3 amp load at 250 volts. I recommend use of a solid conductor for this switch - but you could use a stranded wire type with similar results if you "tin" (solder) the wires first. I would not recommend the use of stranded wires with this switch. If you attempt to push a larger wire into the terminal opening, you could damage the spring metal contacts - rendering them inoperable.

The National Electrical Code limits the smallest sized wires installed in buildings to a #14 gauge wire. This is two sizes greater than the 18 gauge wire allowed by this switch. For this reason, the switch is designed to interconnect fixture wires only - not for use between the home wiring and the fixture wires.

If you need to connect a switch between the home wiring and the fixture, you should use a switch that has wire leads on it already, or install a short length of the smaller 18 gauge wire with an insulation rated for at least the voltage of the circuit (thermostat, doorbell, network, telephone wire is NOT acceptable) into the switch, and use a wirenut to connect the home wiring to the 18 gauge wires.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Replacing 4-wire 3-way pull-chain switch is usually not that simple, since old and new switches might not be compatible and should be tested first using multimeter or continuity tester.

Open following link for step-by-step testing to see if old and new switches are compatible:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

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Open following link for illustration and instructions:
As a general rule, the new 3-speed switch has to have same number of wires (either 3 or 4).
The new switch and old switch have to match electrically, which means the old and new switches have to be tested with a continuity tester or multimeter (both testers available at local hardware).
Testing is necessary because wire colors do not always match and because each pull chain can activate different wire or combination of wires.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html#3-speed

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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
You wire it up in series... Usually you cut the black wire and install the switch wires between the cut wires. All the switch does is open 1/2 of the circuit. (one leg) If your power wire is not black then find the power wire attach one side of the wire to incoming power and attach the other side of the switch to the load / light / fan / what ever.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
(Electrician since 1960's)

Use a continuity tester on old switch.
There will be 1 main wire that connected to power >>> power flows through this wire to the switch and feeds the other 3 wires > each time you click switch, power will flow to one of the other three wires

The do the same test on new switch. Match up wires accordingly.

If you don't have a multimeter, buy inexpensive continuity tester at hardware store.
Continuity tester is basically a flashlight battery and flashlight bulb that lights up when the circuit is closed

Hi there, Without getting technical, I'm going to assume you have two wire's coming out of your fixture - which you've already identified as the line (aka. power/hot leg), and load (switch leg). And, you want to know which side of the switch to splice (connect/hook) these wires to? Well, on a switch, it doesn't matter. You should have two wires coming from your pull chain switch, right? If so, then connect one wire (fixture) to one wire (switch)  - and the other wire (fixture) to the other wire (switch). And you should be good to go. Now remember, before you begin to work on this fixture, to please turn OFF the power going to the fixture. I always do as licensed electrician, and I always make this part of my practice when helping others, that they do the same. Thanks! As I said from the beginning..."Without getting technical"; I'm double checking with you that you are absolutely sure that you have, and know - the wires coming from the fixture - are for sure, the line and load wire's. Because if not, then please contact me with the information you do have - and then I'll help walk you through with it. I hope this helps, and works for you. Good Luck! - JR

Replacements are available at Home Depot and Lowes. This is a regular 4-wire single-layer switch.

Mark the old wires, so you know which ports they go to in the switch (marked L, 1, 2, and 3) -- then remove the old wires by pressing a paper clip into the hole of each wire while pulling firmly on the wire. Then just push the wires into the new switch, into the marked holes.

I hope this helps! If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask!