[email protected] Dryer shows no responce to starting. dryer plug test OK both sides. screws under cord cover on dryer test with power on left side and no power on the right side. If I unscrew cord from dryer the cord test OK on both sides. How can cord test ok on both sides unscrewed from dryer and test only good on one side screwed to dryer

You have pretty much ruled out everything in that machine. The only thing left to check is the wiring to the plug in the building and the breakers

The most common cause of an ELECTRIC dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse or bad power cord. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct (220-240VAC), check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same voltage reading. If good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad, you need to replace your power cord.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the two HOT leads are the LEFT and RIGHT wires. The center wire will be NEUTRAL or GROUND.

If the problem is internal, and if the model number is correct, the thermal fuse can be accessed by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear panel. Remove the dryer exhaust vent hose.

3. Remove the rear panel of the dryer and set aside.

The thermal fuse is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached on the blower fan housing on the lower LEFT-hand side of the dryer. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.

Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it can be raplaced by following these steps:

1. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED.

2. Remove the dryer lint screen.

3. Locate the two screws under the lint screen and remove.

4. With the screws removed, the top panel will not lift up, exposing the dryer door switch.

5. Disconnect the door switch connector plug using a small flat blade screwdriver to release the connector tabs.

6. Remove the defective switch by loosening any screws holding it in place and re-install a replacement.

Make sure the connector plug is reconnected and lower the top panel back in place. Test operate by plugging the dryer back and turning the dryer on. If op tested okay, reinstall top panel screws.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part number you may need are as follows:

Thermal Fuse - part number 3392519, listed as item 23 under the "Bulkhead Parts" listing.

Door Switch - part number 3406105, listed as item 10 under the "Cabinet Parts" listing.

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot most common electric dryer problems:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions about these repairs, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

The most common cause of an ELECTRIC dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse or bad power cord. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct (220-240VAC), check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same voltage reading. If good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad, you need to replace your power cord.

NOTE: If the wires are not color coded, the two HOT leads are the LEFT and RIGHT wires. The center wire will be NEUTRAL or GROUND.

If the problem is internal, and if the model number is correct, the thermal fuse can be accessed by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG dryer. Dangerous voltage is still present inside a dryer even with the unit turned off.

2. Turn the dryer around so you can access the rear panel. Remove the dryer exhaust vent hose.

3. Remove the rear panel of the dryer and set aside.

The thermal fuse is a small plastic looking component with two wires attached on the blower fan housing on the lower LEFT-hand side of the dryer. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.

Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it can be raplaced by following these steps:

1. Make sure the dryer is UNPLUGGED.

2. Remove the dryer lint screen.

3. Locate the two screws under the lint screen and remove.

4. With the screws removed, the top panel will not lift up, exposing the dryer door switch.

5. Disconnect the door switch connector plug using a small flat blade screwdriver to release the connector tabs.

6. Remove the defective switch by loosening any screws holding it in place and re-install a replacement.

Make sure the connector plug is reconnected and lower the top panel back in place. Test operate by plugging the dryer back and turning the dryer on. If op tested okay, reinstall top panel screws.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All these sites are reputable and have competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If the model number is correct, the part number you may need are as follows:

Thermal Fuse - part number 3392519, listed as item 23 under the "Bulkhead Parts" listing.

Door Switch - part number 3406105, listed as item 10 under the "Cabinet Parts" listing.

The following link can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot most common electric dryer problems:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions about these repairs, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

The fault code PF means a power failure occurred or the power to the dryer was interrupted by any means while it is running. The interruption can be due to a power outage/failure or a power cord loose connection to the electronic control board. Pressing the Pause/Cancel button clears out the display; otherwise, unplug the dryer then let it sit for at least 15 minutes.

Remove the three hex-head screws from the rear flange of the dryer top cover to access the machine control electronics and check the power cord connection if the issue is not resolved above or if the fault code keeps on popping up. The top cover screws have nylon flat washers on them. Be sure to use these screws when you reinstall the top cover. Lift the rear of the top cover and slide it back so the tabs clear the catches on the bracket, and remove the cover from the unit. Make sure that the tabs slide under the bracket catches when you reinstall the top cover.

Remove the three screws from the machine control electronics board bracket and pull the bracket away from the side of the dryer in order to access the connectors. Visually check P1 harness, the five-wire harness on the upper left corner of the machine control electronics where the power cord connects and make sure the connector is fully inserted into the electronic controls and the terminal connections are clean. Reseating the connection several times will help clean off dirt and corrosion build up in the connection

The machine control electronics definitely needs replacing if the issue is not addressed by the outlined procedures above.

Unplug the dryer and pull it away from the wall.

On the back of the dryer near the top you will see a metal cover, usually just above where the cord comes out.

Unscrew any screws in this cover, usually only 1 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch screw that may also have a phillips or common screw head.

Once this cover is removed observe the cord going to the back of your dryer. There will either be 3 wires connected to 3 posts or 3 wires connected to 3 posts and one wire connected to the cabinet.

Remove the wire connected to the cabinet first.

Next unscrew the 3 screws holding the plug onto the terminal. Depending on how the end of your cord is made you may be able to just loosen these and pull the cord down or have to remove them completely. Do not drop these in the dryer!

Now just replace the cord with the new one and refasten the screws. Make sure they are extremely tight where the cord connects to the terminal block.

If you have a 3 prong cord with 3 wires the middle wire must go to the middle terminal and the other 2 can go on either side.

If you have a 4 wire cord the white wire will go to the center terminal, the black wire will go on either the left or right post and the red wire will go on the left or right post. One wire per post!

The last green wire will attach directly to the back of the dryer, usually with a 5/16 screw. This is just your ground wire.

Hope this helps.

Four prong dryer cord connections to dryer:

- Red to far-left or far-right screw on dryer (doesn't matter which side)

- Black to screw on opposite far-side on dryer

- White to center screw on dryer

- Green to dryer grounding screw

Any questions, please let me know.

Your dryer was manufactured in June of 1996. If the dryer is not turning on, it could be any of the following:

1. Defective Door Switch. If the door switch is not functioning, this will prevent the dryer from starting. You can check it by toggling the switch at the door. You should be able to see the drum light turning on and off, if the switch is working.
2. Blown Thermal Fuse. The fuse is located on the blower fan housing. To access, you will need to unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. The thermal fuse is a plastic looking component on the blower fan housing on the lower left hand side. It has two wires coming off of it. Disconnect the two wires and measure the fuse with a multimeter. You should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If the fuse is blown, this generally occurs for a reason. The number one cause, is clogged or poorly installed dryer vent ducting. Now may be a good time to inspect your dryer ducting to ensure it is blowing air correctly.
3. Broken Dryer Belt. If the belt is broken, the dryer drum will not turn, but will still attempt to heat. If the belt needs replaced, follow these steps:

a. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the lint screen.

b. Locate the two screws near the lint screen opening and remove. With the two screws removed, the top panel will lift up.

c. Unplug the door switch conector plug and any ground wire that may be installed on the casing.

d. Locate the two screws that hold the front panel in place. There should be one screw on each side in the cabinet interior.

e. With the door shut, lean against the front panel and remove the two screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, grasp the front panel at the top center and lift straight up to remove.

You should now have complete access to the dryer interior. If the belt is broken, this may cause the idler pulley to come loose. This is normal with no tension on the pulley to hold it in place. To install a new belt and re-install the pulley, follow these steps:

a. Loop the drive belt around the dryer drum with the groove side facing the drum. (Try to line the belt up with the wear marks already on the drum from the previous belt).

b. With the tensioner in your left hand, insert the clip end of the idler pulley into the grooves on the dryer bottom casing with the idler wheel pointing to your left. (The grooves are directly in front of the drive motor.)

c. While holding the tensioner in place, insert the belt UNDER the wheel with your right hand and pull it up and over the drive motor pulley.

If this does not explain it well enough, you can also verify by going to repairclinic.com. Click on the Repair Help link and look for the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section on the next page. Look for Whirlpool and refer to diagram H.

Once you have the belt installed, re-install the dryer front panel by holding it as you did previously. Line up the holes on the inside bottom edge of the front panel with the small mounting cleats on the front edge of the side panels. This can be done by yourself, but an assist may make it easier. Once you have the front panel in place, lean against it to hold it in place and install the mounting screws. NOTE: Don't forget to reconnect the grounding wire and door switch connector plug. Without the door switch connected, the dryer will not run. Lower the top panel back in place and reinstall the two screws.

NOTE: Placing a piece of duct tape over the dryer vent chute will help safeguard against dropping anything down in the blower fan assembly. If you drop any screws down the chute, you will need to remove the dryer back panel to retrieve them.

4. Defective Drive Motor. If the drive motor fails, the drum will not turn. The motors are usually very reliable, but it can happen.
5. Defective Timer. Again, usually a very reliable part.
6. Push-To-Start Switch. If the start button fails, no start voltage is applied to the drive motor. You can take a resistance reading across the terminals with the wires disconnected to see if the switch is toggling properly. You will need to remove the back panel of the operator console to access it.
7. Bad Power Cord. I know you said you had voltage, but WHERE did you measure it? With the dryer unplugged, remove the access panel that covers the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and take a reading across the RED and BLACK wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If good, this proves the power cord is good. If bad, unplug the dryer and take the same reading across the two HOT terminals (Left and Right slots) of the wall receptacle. If good at the receptacle, but bad at the terminal block,you have a bad power cord.

I hope I've given you enough to think about. Start with the easy items you can eliminate first. If you have questions, please let me know.

You can refer to searspartsdirect.com for exploded view diagrams of the dryer. Type in your model number as 110.66712690. The Thermal Fuse is located under the "Bulkhead" heading as item 59. The Push-to-Start Switch is listed as item 5 under the "Top and Console" heading. The Door Switch is listed as item 41 under the "Cabinet" heading.

You can also check out these other web sites for price comparison:

appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

I hope you find this information helpful.

The first step in troubleshooting would be to unplug the dryer and remove the cover on the terminal block. This is where the dryer power cord is installed. Plug the dryer back in and then take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires on the AC Voltage scale. You should read about 220-240VAC if good. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, unplug the dryer again and check the wall receptacle across the LEFT and RIGHT slots. If good at the receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, you have a bad power cord. If bad in both places, you have an electrical problem with the receptacle of distribution source.

Now...barring a defective drive motor, improper source voltage at the wall receptacle, or defective power cord, the most common cause of a dryer that will not run is a blown Thermal Fuse.

The Thermal Fuse is located on the air blower fan housing in the back of the dryer. It is a small white plastic component with two wires attached to it. To access, simply remove the back panel of the dryer. The Thermal Fuse will be located on the blower fan housing on the lower left hand side of the dryer. Make sure the dryer is unplugged and disconnect the wires before making any resistance checks. The fuse should read about zero ohms if good. If bad, replace it. You can purchase replacements on line at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, or repairclinic.com. Just use your model number for your search criteria. The Thermal Fuse is listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as item number 8.

NOTE: If the Thermal Fuse is blown, it usually blows for a reason. Verify all your ventilation ducting and blower fan assembly is clear of any clogs. Failure to do so, will result in repeated failures of any components you may replace.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

make sure the green wire is connected like in the picture. this connects directly to the neutral, if it is disconnected when you connect a 3 wire cord then this problem you are having will happen.

small plug left side bottom remove it this will allow you to see if ignitor is coming on if it is suspect the coils on gas valve or no gas to dryer if no glow possible bad thermal fuse remove back small white object on blower housing ..if no lower panel ..remove 2 screws under filter pop top 2 clips 1 each side about 2-3 inches from end..2 screws 5/16 1 each side upper corners remove lift front off