Question about Kenmore 75922 Gas Dryer

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72922 How do I get the back off the dryer? It seems lkke it is painted on or something? I have to take it apart again...When I start the dryer it sounds like a train stopping, then goes for a bit and stops. It does heat up. We replaced the belt, but it is still making the noise, (although it stopped for a bit) and although it heats up it stops after a while on it's own.

Posted by mdkmsw7 on

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1 Answer

Chris Huff

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 6,289 Answers

What is the make and model #?

Posted on Sep 15, 2017

  • Anonymous Sep 15, 2017

    It's a Kenmore but wrong model

  • Chris Huff
    Chris Huff Sep 15, 2017

    What is model #?

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5 Related Answers

douglas smith

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: dryer tumbler won't turn but heats up

turn on for a short time and listen for a low hum. if present, this means the motor is stalled. take of top and give the drum a push. if it then starts to run then the motor capacitor is faulty

Posted on Apr 27, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer

I am sorry to hear this, my name is Marc White, i am self employed and it seems as though you have a bad timer, bad timer will cause the timer not to go to the off position and blow your fuse......change your timer..


thanks

Posted on Apr 03, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cant find heating element for kenmore 80 series dryer

it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

kachbibi1

Bill Dickerson

  • 979 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer - no heat and timer doesn't stop

First turn off both breakers then back on. Next, check the wiring from the receptacle to the plug to the back of the dryer. Next, the thermal switch under the top of the dryer next to or near the drum may be bad. Bypass it and see if you get heat. If so, then replace it for about $20. Your heating element may be bad also. You can visually check it and see if it is burned in 2. Now your timer is probably bad. They are easy to replace and fairly inexpensive.
I guess after looking at all this, you need to decide if it is all worth it to fix it. If it is more than 10-12 years old, you may be seeing the beginning of the end. If the thermal switch, the element, the timer are all bad, you may want to make room at the curve and take the door off for safety. Dryers aren't that expensive especially when you consider the hassle. Good luck and let me know how and what you do.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

jsrock516

Jeff Rockwell

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: dryer won't heat

If your dryer still runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

Posted on Jun 25, 2010

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1 Answer

Notice a "rubber"smell this winter. The lint vent is clean after each use, outside vent is clear of any debris. can the wind blow smell back into house or is it a belt? Installed new by dealer 1/9/13.


I have found that when people start smelling things in the dryer it's from chemicals from like paint or varnish,all the dryer does is move air when it gets hot you start smelling it.you can pull it apart and check the belt and rollers but your dryer has the lint filter on top and there isn't anything in there that could really make it smell,on some of these dryers the belt pulley doesn't have a wheel on it,the pulley is just a piece of metal with no moving parts and the belt rubs on the pulley but i've never smelt anything from that,like i say usually it's from having your floors done over the smell from the polyurethane coating or from paint can make the dryer smell.go here to take dryer apart
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGIG8Wo5-N4
hope this helps

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1 Answer

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sounds like something with the heating element, or the cord on the back of the dryer. unplug dryer and remove back plate and inspect the cord connection, if all is good, then open up dryer and inspect heating element, might as clean all the lint out,also. Hope this helps Tim;

http://www.applianceaid.com/take-apart.html

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1 Answer

Dryer make buzzing sound like a stuck relay when you push the start button. pushing dryness control gives flashing error signal. Model LEQ2152ESO


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You may have a felt seal in the front that needs replaced. A wire off the pin switch could be off, and you will see the pin switch when you open the door, and make sure it is clicking.

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eb4e482.jpg
Hope this helped and best wishes.

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1 Answer

Buzzing sound


sounds lkke a badcompressor, the overlaod relay is "buzzing trying to start the compressor. if unider 5 years it should be coverd under manufactures warr.

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The motor in your unit has to be replaced. The centrifical sw can't seem to keep the motor going. The shaft may spin freely, but once power is present the shaft locks up therefore your over amping the motor and it then trips the breaker. Since you already had the unit apart you will do fine replacing the motor. Good luck

dmparenti

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