Question about Kenmore 75922 Gas Dryer
turn on for a short time and listen for a low hum. if present, this means the motor is stalled. take of top and give the drum a push. if it then starts to run then the motor capacitor is faulty
Posted on Apr 27, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer
I am sorry to hear this, my name is Marc White, i am self employed and it seems as though you have a bad timer, bad timer will cause the timer not to go to the off position and blow your fuse......change your timer..
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
First turn off both breakers then back on. Next, check the wiring from the receptacle to the plug to the back of the dryer. Next, the thermal switch under the top of the dryer next to or near the drum may be bad. Bypass it and see if you get heat. If so, then replace it for about $20. Your heating element may be bad also. You can visually check it and see if it is burned in 2. Now your timer is probably bad. They are easy to replace and fairly inexpensive.
I guess after looking at all this, you need to decide if it is all worth it to fix it. If it is more than 10-12 years old, you may be seeing the beginning of the end. If the thermal switch, the element, the timer are all bad, you may want to make room at the curve and take the door off for safety. Dryers aren't that expensive especially when you consider the hassle. Good luck and let me know how and what you do.
Posted on Feb 11, 2009
SOURCE: dryer won't heat
If your dryer still runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.
Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
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