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Posted on Mar 28, 2011
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I have a kenmore over the range microwave oven.Everything on the microwave works but it does not heat.

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  • Kenmore Master 43,501 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 28, 2011
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Hi,


Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic
Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

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Kenmore combo microwave rangehood.everything works but won't heat food.what do you think the problem could be ?

Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101
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Kenmore microwave model 721.80033700 won't heat

Hi,


Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with your Microwave Oven....

Basic Microwave Oven Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101


'.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;.;

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Our kenmore microwave stop heating.. Everything works well but it just stop heating last night after l cleaned it.. did I do anything to it??

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

78g
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2answers

MICROWAVE NOT HEATING

Most likely you have a magnetron problem. Easy to replace (DYI) but make sure the high voltage capacitor is fully discharged first against the case.
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66993 pizza oven microwave oven combo pizza oven not heating error code f1 microwave part works

Hello, please use the chart to determine which stove you have. You will have to look at the model number. The first 3 numbers will be the series on the chart. In most cases an F1 error would require replacement of the electronic control. This part is commonly refered to as an EOC or ERC. However this type of repair is usually reserved for repair specialists.

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes – 362 Series (General Electric)
F1 = Stuck Touch Pad Key - Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 911 Series (General Electric/Roper)
F0-F1-FF = Failed transistor in Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes- 665 Series (Whirlpool)
F1-E0 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E1 EPROM Error - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E2 U/L ERC Errors - Electronic Range Control (ERC).
F1-E3 Fuel Type Fail

Kill power 30 seconds-Cancel-Start/Enter-5 seconds-Should see “E” for electric-
“9” for gas-If code changes again-replace Electronic Range Control (ERC).

KENMORE - 790 Series Electronic Oven Control (Frigidaire)
F1 = Shorted Touch Pad = Electronic Range Control (EOC) Internal check sum error.
Runaway Temp = Replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Kill power 30 seconds - if error returns - replace Electronic Oven Control (EOC).

Thanks
0helpful
1answer

My Kenmore over the range microwave is not heating....

chances are your magnatron quit on you and you may be better off getting a new one.
1helpful
2answers

Everything works except it doesn't heat anything

no, just 1 main fuse for everything. there are temp safety devices though, and door closed safety switches. Most likely failure though is the magnatron.
0helpful
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0helpful
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Kenmore over the range Microwave

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
0helpful
1answer

Kenmore Microwave Hood Combination: over the stove Model #721.80602500

Disclaimer: I'm a DIYer, not a technician.

Our GE over-the-range microwave stopped producing heat yesterday while warming part of the T-giving feast. Everything else (fan, control panel, light) works fine.

After disassembly and testing last night, I discovered a defective "secondary door switch." Your Kenmore uses a similar switch (~$19 on-line), and that might be the problem. But it also could be other things, such as a bad thermal cut-out.

If you know anyone who's handy with a multimeter, most of the basic diagnostics seem to be pretty straightforward.
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