What is the ohm and taper value of the input pot on the Tascam PA-150 Dual Power Amp?

I recommend checking music stores in your area for that, it doesn't have to be any specific rating of impedence. Depending on brand, I see guitars with anything from 50 ohms to 250 ohms. This only allows a faster cutoff on volume than others. The most critical action is to have a smooth taper, meaning a straight volume rise or decline versus one that goes down slowly or quickly and suddenly cuts off. Most any guitar volume control from a music store will work just fine. In case I confused you, ohms is the rating of the control, the taper or smoothness is classed as A, B, or C. A is normally for volume controls and B is used mostly for tone controls. Knowing that should give you insight insight to the difference of the controls.

There are MANY pots in this and there are THREE different tapers including A,B and G. Which pot are you talking about? The part value will be marked on the pot like for instance G1M which means 1 Megohm, Graphic taper... or B10K which means 10 K ohms, Audio taper.

For the Tascam DP-01 Digital 8-Track Portastudio, here are some of the specs:

• Analog specifications
• Inputs (A And B) 1/4" Phone (Unbalanced)
• Input Impedance: > 10k Ohms (Max), Or 1 M Ohms (A Only) With Switch In
• Guitar Position: 2.4 K Ohms
• Nominal Input Level: -10 Dbv -
• Maximum Input Level: +6 Dbv
  
  Effect Return 2 X 1/4" Phone (Unbalanced)
• Input Impedance: 10 K Ohms
• Nominal Input Level: -10 Dbv
• Maximum Input Level: +6 Dbv
  
  Stereo Mix 2 X 1/4" Phone (Unbalanced)
• Input Impedance: 10 K Ohms
• Nominal Input Level: -10 Dbv
• Maximum Input Level: +6 Dbv
  

Courtesy of Musicians Friend

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The part number for the level pots is

POT0259 71190259 71190259 50KB - STD - 9MM - W/DTT

Now that says a STD taper which could be standard audio taper...

The EQ pots are going to give you fits to find them, here is info:

18 SPOT0459 71190459 71190459 DUAL 50K 20MM W TAPER W/DTT AND TAP

They are duals with not only a taper, but they have a tap in the middle of the resistance element... these are very special.

FRANKLY if these pots are noisy, treat them with CRC226 which is available in the electrical dept of Home Depot. Try to get the liquid into the resistance element wiper area.

Most of the work accessing pots on a mixer is pulling knobs and taking off the nuts of jacks. There are usually a few screws holding the board to the panel but they are obvious...

Thoise special pots you will likely have to get through Peavey.

The pot is PROBABLY an audio taper so check the suffix on the old one.

Many pots you can find at Digikey.com or Mouser.com.

You MAY have to cut the shaft length

For an exact replacement you will probably have to go to Alesis.

4.7 K is NOT a standard value for pots. 5K ohms is.

NEVER use switch cleaner such as DeOxit on pots !!!!!

I have used CRC226 available at Home Depot electrical dept.

I SUSPECT that the resistance element in that pot is cracked. This is common if the knob sustained a hit. Replacing the pot is the only cure if the element is cracked.

Reviewing the schematic, ALL audio passes through the wiper on the HIGH tone pots. If the wiper is intermittent, so will be the sound.

If your unit is solid state amp, the pot looks like a 10K ohm LINEAR taper.
If you have a tube type, then the pot is a 250K ohm LINEAR.

Note that the other tone pots in the units are AUDIO tapers, but the high is a linear taper.

Get repair parts from either DigiKey.com or Mouser.com

First, the resistor you are looking for is a 39K ohm +/- 5% tolerance (GOLD tolerance band). Second, FAN MAN still has a couple of new boards in stock, even though his website says he is sold out (I just spoke with him today). VERY nice guy, and VERY reasonable prices. Phone # is (866) 600-FANS (3267). I had the same problem a few years ago (burnt resistor and fried pot) and replaced the resistor and pot. Everything worked again with very little time to fix, and almost no cost. Got the resistor at Radio Shack, but had to order the pot from a Casablanca dealer - read on.......

Now for the pot......

Part #1954150 *IS* a 5K ohm linear taper. I'm looking at the meter and a new pot as I write this. You had me wondering if I misread the meter or something, so I went back and double/triple checked. This pot is installed in my recently rebuilt Vari-Quiet Victorian, and it works fine.

However, I want to tell everyone that I had purchased a replacement pot many years ago from a Casablanca dealer because, as I said above, my old one had fried, along with the resistor (just like your situation). The pot the dealer sent me was a Casablanca part 0001040 (I still have the receipt), and it fit perfectly, so I didn't pay much attention to it. This pot worked for over a decade. But the replacement pot was NOT stamped with the 1954150 part number, and I have long ago thrown out the original - so I don't know at this point what was originally in the fan. BUT, the replacement pot that I put in so many years ago *IS STAMPED* "25K Ohm", and I measured what is left of it and it definitely is a 25K ohm linear taper pot. It worked for over a decade (since 1998).

Now, I have once again rebuilt my fan this summer because the pot again failed (I can't complain, I got almost 11 years out of it). New bearings, new pot, new flywheel, new PCB assembly, new heat sink/transistor, new brass hardware and a a coat of paint/laquer (brass). The new pot was purchased from Plaza Lighting (978) 774-7801, Don Guerette - another VERY nice guy with EXCELLENT prices. However, I got his last pot - sorry. The pot Don sent me is the 1954150/5K Ohm linear taper - the same one that came out of your Vari-Quiet. It also works very well - better than my old 25K Ohm pot because it slows the fan to a full stop at almost a full deflection of the knob (my old 25K ohm slowed the fan to a full stop at partial deflection).

Hence, my conclusion is that the part that belongs in MY fan is the 1954150 pot, and the 25K Ohm pot was the wrong one, even though it worked for many years (no reason it wouldn't, scaling was off, that's all). If you've never done anything with your fan since new (like replace the pot), then the correct pot is the 1954150 since that is what you are taking out of it, and that is definitely a 5K ohm linear taper. You can pick these up almost anywhere. The 25K ohm wa a wire wound. I don't know about the 5K ohm as I'm not about to take mine apart - smiles.

P.S. I was able to acquire a W52 remote control module and install it on my rebuilt Vari-Quiet. It works GREAT (Casablanca sasys you must convert it to a 3-speed before you can use the W52 - LOL)!!!!!

Use an ohmmeter to read the value. Even if the resistance element has been broken you can read by touching the remaining part and estimating the total resistance by what is left.
NEXT look for an A or B on the can as this is the taper type. You may also find the resistance marked there like 50K or it might be something like 1003 (100K ohm)
You need to match the resistance AND the taper.

This sounds like a power supply problem. The high voltage for the tubes is not right. Either you are missing an amplification stage because this or one of the coupling caps is faulty. I'd have to see the unit itself to give you any more details.

Dan

If you have the old pots then the value is usually printed on the side of the pot. If there is no number and you have the pot then you can open them up and using a ohm meter take a reading directly off of the carbon film of the pot. Read from one end to the other. I would expect something on the order of 25K (K=thousand) to about 50K. If you can , get the audio taper style of pot, but in a pinch the linear taper will work. The trickiest part will be to get one that is close enough in size and shape to directly replace the original mounting. Good luck. By the way, in extreme cases I've even used fixed resistors (3 or 6 resistors depending on mono or stereo) to replace a pot and then you just choose resistors that will place the volumn at say 2/3 full.