My sub dont sound right - Hifonics HFI 12S4 12 DVC Subwoofer 600 Watts sub Car Subwoofer

Yes....hook one up to the left channel and one up to the right.....once everything is wired up.....keep gain down on amp and turn stereo on.....turn up stereo with amp gain down to right before high end speakers start to distort......then while its playing, turn amp gain up about 1/2 way. close your trunk and hop in drivers seat....sound gd????? You might have to adjust level on amp and bass on head unit to taste.....Be careful though....pioneer subs are only rated around 300 watts continuous.....dont want to blow them...gd luck....

Alright i had a chance to look over things, this is how you are going to hook up the sub. first we'll be connecting the surround sound unit to the sub woofer.
surround sound unit sub woofer
left front: positive (+) <-----to------------->(+) left speaker level in
negative ( - )<- - -to- - - - - - ->( - ) left speaker level in

right front: positive (+) <-----to------------->(+) right speaker level in
negative ( - )<- - -to- - - - - - >( - ) right speaker level in

now that the surround sound unit is connected to the sub woofer you will need to connect the front surround sound speakers to the sub woofer.
sub woofer front surround sound speaker
left speaker level out (+)<-----to--------> (+) left front speaker
left speaker level out( - ) <- - - to- - - - ->( - ) left front speaker

right speaker level out (+)<-----to--------> (+) right front speaker
right speaker level out( - ) <- - - to- - - ->( - ) right front speaker

Alright now that the wires are all over the place and plugged in
turn everything on and see how it sounds. let me know if everything is working as it should. if you need help with anything else or if something does not seem right please feel free to contact me via e-mail or phone
Mark Woodring

it is not reccomended to daisy chain passive subs with main speakers, because there is no crossover unit involved. you want a sub to have a crossover frequency around 100hz, so that only frequencies lower than this go through the subs, and not in the main speakers.

you could get away with 1 sub plugged into the mono output on the front, subs dont have to be stereo. you would need a self popwered sub, or an additional amplifier+crossover for passive subs. your best bet would to be to get a powered sub and hook it up to the front panel mono out. powered subs usually already have the crossover built--in.

Sounds like the sub is blown. Swap the two subs and see if the sound comes from the other sub in the original location as well. If not, then you have a bad sub. If the bad sound happens with both subs then you need to look at wiring and the Amp.

havent heard of too many 14" speakers... but it all depends on what ohm the speaker is. single 4 ohm- bridge it on one set of channels. left + right- . if its a dual 4 ohm i wouldnt reccomend using it at all. you could technically bridge each coil on each set of channels. but it may not sound right. kinda hard to set the gains and match them. dual 2 ohm- run the sub stereo. one coil to one channel, the other coil to the other channel. single 2 ohm. dont use it unless you get another sub like what you have. then run it stereo. one sub to one channel. the other sub to the other channel.

Ok, you're going to choose 1 set of inputs for the subs on the amp (I usually use the low or rear which ever has more settings) Now in the output side you're going to use the positive side of the right side speaker and the negative side of the left side speaker (you can switch left or right as long as they are opposite sides). Lets start with the negative wire connect it to the negative input on one of the subs, connect the positive wire to the positive input on the OTHER sub, then get an extra wire to connect the inputs not used on both subs. Adjust settings in amp and radio and if it doesn't sound good use negative and positive outputs from one single output (only left or only right) Hope this helps.

if you dont have a crossover you will not get the best performance out of your sub. you need to seperate the frequencies and send only the lows to the sub woffers.

The amp and sub combo should work fine the subs can really take a crapload of power-i have a neighbor thats running 1200 watts rms to each sub in his caddy and OMG- its sick. Your amp should be pushing around 800 watts rms(continous) to the sub which should do very well-my concern with your setup is that the sub is designed for a vented box- you can use any box u want but im just suggesting that you use a good solid vented box with these subs- my other concern with your setup is that having only the single sub if its a dual coil 4ohm + 4ohm coils then you might run into trouble if you dont have it set up right-by that meaning to get all the power handling capability of the sub you would want to use both of the coils right? well to do that you have to either wire the coils in series or wire the coils in parallel right? In series the coils will yield an 8 ohm load to the amp and youll only get about 400 watts from the amp bridged into that 8 ohm load- on the other side of that if you wire the coils in parallel then the cols yield a 2 ohm load and that could cause the amplifier to become unstable and fry its little guts. All of this is assuming that the amp is made to run bridged at 4 ohms- if it is 2 ohm stable in bridged mode than you have nothing to worry about. Now the popping noise- that sounds like its coming from the amp somehow and just feeding through to the sub-like you ive never heard a sub popping unless its bottoming out and you say its not so its gotta be the amp id say-if it were me id check all power connections especially the ground for the amp . It could be that on the heavy bass notes that your amp is not getting enough juice -throw a 3.5 farad capacitor on the power line and see if that helps your system out-

Are you sure the polarity is correct on the sub's connectors? This is very important as reversing them will cause the sub to pound inward instead of out. Make sure the wires are thick enough and that the amp's + connector goes to the red(or +) connector on the sub and that the amp is grounded properly to a clean piece of metal on the car's body. This ground wire should also be as short as possible. Also make sure the fine-tuning for the bass level on the amp is adjusted correctly and that the sub's enclosure is the correct specification ie. Ported or sealed, right size, etc.

sounds like they have your sub amp in mono but they put the speakers in series which totally cancels the benefit of running your amp in mono. you will probably be happier if you just hook the left speaker to left plus and minus and the right to right plus and minus. Cuz even though subs aren't directional they do pass some higher frequencies that are and that dilutes the stereo effect.