The dryer gets hot and then cuts off now it want even turn on I was wondering if it was the therma fuse, thermostat and the heat element that went wrong. E-mail address is [email protected]

The heating element might have went out of the dryer or the cord may not be hooked up to the dryer right.

DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
You never explained what the problem was. Dryer not running? No heat? Dryer shutting down. It could be as simple as cleaning out your dryer hot air distribution manifold. A dryer will not run if you do not have good air flow due to lint blockage. A dryer will not run if you have a bad door switch. You can Ohm components out with a multi-meter, setting the meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol). You should get a reading of "0" if the component is good.


1.) Dryer Door Switch - This switch replaces your dryer door's switch.

• You may need to remove your dryer's lint screen and lint screen housing before lifting its top panel to reach its existing switch.
• Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.

This Dryer Door Switch part #3406107 Cost $20.00



Dryer Door Switch - Unplug the dryer before replacing the door switch.
This Dryer Door Switch part #279782 Cost: $22.00


Thermal Cut-Off- This component is located on your heating element housing,. you may be able to access it at your hot air distribution manifold in the back of your unit.

When replacing your dryer's fuse, replace its thermostat, too. The thermostat should have prevented the dryer's existing fuse from blowing. The high-limit thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit) and the thermal cut-off fuse to 360 degrees (Fahrenheit).

Install the fuse in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation

Part #: 3977394 Cost: $33.00
Cost: $34.00
The high-limit thermostat replaces your dryer's thermostat.

• The thermostat is functional to 250 degrees (Fahrenheit).
• Install the thermostat in your dryer's heater element housing box. Be sure your dryer is unplugged during installation.

This High-Limit Thermostat part #3390291
Hot Air Distribution Manifold:
This is in the back of your dryer and easily unbolted. If you are plugged up with lint your unit will shut down. Remove this component and clean the lower discharge end.
So, tell me what the problem is, and I will tell you how to fix it.

Peter,
Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA

DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q




Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?

Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

I would change the control thermostat. It is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the filter housing under the dust cover on the back side.
I worked on a dryer like this that had a heat problem and wrote about it HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.




Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

Fuse and element failure is related to lack of air passing over the element. The drum and fan should run even if the heater is inoperative. Find out what is stopping them, then work on heat. If motor is running, there should be air flow--pull vent hose from wall outlet--should be brisk air flow. If not, remove the lint screen and check again. If now ok, soak the lint screen in hot water and detergent. If drum does not turn, check the drive belt and if it sits properly on motor pulley.

change motor

Sound like the thermostat is not working bud first check and double check the thermostat is connected properly and the wires are on correctly (not mixed up)and check the stat probe or bulb is in the correct place to pick up heat(assumeing that the stat is not a energy switch wich has no bulb)If you are not sure where the wires go there should be a diagram on the inside of the back panel or go on line to the manufacturer site and get one from them,

Hope this is of some assistance

pleas4e help my dryer is working but it won't get hot it just blows cold air please help me fix this problem