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There are three possiblities: 1. dirt interfering with the jaw position or between the jaw and the workpiece - if you loosen, tap the jaw, retighten on your work and the result is repeatable, then this is not the problem. 2. the jaw itself needs to be cut, as you are doing - this will solve the problem and give you repeatably centering so long as 1 or 3 are not the problem. 3. The most insidious problem would be that the spiral groove on the back plate which is supposed to move the three jaws in harmony has a bad spot - this would give you inconsistent centering of the jaws at different diameters and could only be fixed by re-grinding that spiral groove (this would be VERY tricky to do yourself) or replacing the backplate. good luck!
It is the axle bolt and it goes right through the wheel hub. You will need to support the bike, as when this axle comes out , so will the wheel. remove the axle nut and tap the axle out with a brass hammer, if it is corroded you may also need a brass drift slightly smaller than the axle to drive the axle out.
there is a threaded collar and lock nut at the top of the steerer tube that extends from the front forks and connects them to the (head) tube at the front of the bike's frame. Tighten the collar, and then tighten the lock nut, and you should be fine. You will need either a large open wrench, or vise grips with a large jaw, or pliers that can slip from one size to another.
Loosen the two planetary nuts, should be a thin nut and an acorn nut. With these loose make sure the large nut on top of the transmission is tight. Push the planetary all the way up on the shaft and turn the thin nut up until snug. Back the thin nut off 1/4 turn. Hold the thin nut in position and lock the acorn nut against it. The planetary must have a very small amount of up and down play.
There are two styles of valves on bicycle inner tubes. The commonly used style is called Presta, and it is characterized by a thin, threaded brass stem with a head that has a threaded pin in it. This has a small nut pressed on that must be unscrewed to fill it with air. The other style (which resembles the valves on a car's tire) is called Schrader. Bicycle air pumps can handle both styles, but some require a reconfiguration of the pump's valve to make the change from one style to the other. This involves unscrewing the head and removing the parts inside. The details on these processes and the styles of valves on your bicycle will be found in the air pump manual.
Depending on the bike, you will most likely have a nut at the top of handlebar stem or two socket screws at the side of the stem that grip the front fork. In either case you need to loosen them slightly, reposition the handle bars and then tighten up. Quite often however if you stand in front of the bike with your legs on either side of the front wheel and turn the handle bars their is enough slip to move them back. Be carefull you dont strain anything if you dont back the threads off.
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