Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
Often when ice-makers stop working the real problem is that the freezer is not cold enough (It must be 14-16F for the icemaker thermostat to cycle) Check for signs of ice or substantial frost in the back of the unit / evaporator coil area. If you have ice / frost in this area you should do a manual defrost by unplugging the unit and directing an external fan into the freezer compartment for about 2 hours while it makes a water mess that will need to be tended too. Once the 2 hour thawing is complete wipe up the excess water and return the unit to normal service. If the problem was caused by excess ice it will operate normall for 2 - 3 days before ice production slows or stops totally. Should the manual defrosting correct the icemaker problem you most likely have and automatic defrost problem in the form of a problem with one of these 3 components:
1. Defrost control
2. Defrost heating element
3. Defrost thermostat
Having said all of that... You can use this manual to check out your icemaker:
http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf
Make sure to test the coils on the inlet water valve for continuity. If one of the coils is open *** must be replaced. The inlet water valve is NOT repairable.
Your water valve can be found here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Appliance-Parts/whirlpool-water-inlet-valve-item-number-ap4080917.aspx
Here is another link on how to test out the icemaker:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
The ice-maker thermostat must be at or belw 16 F for the above tests to work.
NOTE the freezer door LIGHT switch must be taped down also.
Before you get too deep into troubleshooting checkout the freezer door light switch first. If the switch is bad the freezer compartment light will not work and the ice-maker also will not work.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
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