Hi i hae a star product whipper sniper and i cant get it to go i hae spark i hae fuel but it seems as if there is no fuel getting to cylinder i think it is a problem with my carby the serial no is fcb12071 please help rectify my problem cheers

Check the Spark plugs. Pull them out and see what they look like. Replace the ones that looks bad. Use a Spark Plug Gap Finder and make sure it is set to the specs of the generator.

Could be the Fuel itself. When was the last time you ran it out of gas and refill it? If the spark plugs are fine Empty the tank and place some fresh fuel. Clean or replace the Air filter. Do the general maintenance.

i think it is a star screw driver not a cross head

Hi James,

If debris seems to be collecting on the brushbar, there may be a blockage in the machine. The easiest way to locate and remove any blockages is to follow the steps shown in our online support guide:

http://www.dyson.co.uk/support/help.asp?article=9&product=DC07-ST-BC

This should resolve your issue, but if you need any further assistance, please call us free on 0800 298 0298 so we can help. Our Helpline is available from 7am until 10pm, 7 days a week.

Kind regards,

Jack
Dyson Online Customer Support

Hi peterblesset...
You did not give me any info on what kind of engine that is starving for fuel.
So I will give you my solution to 2 cycle some 4 cycle chainsaw and trimmer engines with fuel problems and igintion problems.
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Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later
reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Hi,

Did you dry the filter for 12 hours before reinstalling and giving a go? Most suction problems are from a blockage of some kind. The Dyson website seems to think it's the filter.
Here is a website which has instructions on washing the filter: http://www.dyson.com/support/help.asp?article=1464&product=DC07-SY-HEPA_US

Hope this works for you. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,

Handie Andie

Hi there,

Look at it from our point of view, with potentially thousands of problems for each product, and thousands of products, we need a little more from you.

If you are serious about getting an answer, include Make, Model of the product you "unplugged", what you are trying to do and if possible what you can't get it to do.

Describe your problem clearly, concisely and with as much detail as possible.

Often, a problem can be the result of a seemingly unrelated event. It is always a good idea to include a recent history.

Additional information such as what steps have already been taken, has the product ever worked, is it new, etc. can have a bearing on providing the best solution for your particular circumstances.

Remember, you are a key participant in this process. We are not there, you are. We depend on you to be our eyes and ears. We can only respond to what you provide us.

What you get out of the experience depends on what you put in to it. So help us help you.

It would be also be advantageous in your case to repost your problem so that it starts over at the top of the queue.



Best regards

Mike

The vacuum has a standard tube internal fuse. If you are lucky that is all it is. See the site http://www.sannerud.com/house/miele.html for instructions on how to open it up.

hope that helps

You have to take the wheels off first to get at two securing screws on each side of the cleaner. First of all remove the plugs in the centre of each wheel (you will probably damage them prizing them out but they are available online as replacements if you make to much of a mess - look online anyway to see what you are dealing with).

Thats because you blow dead bears.

There are 4 (I believe only 4) screws with a "star driver" head on them inside the bottom of the unit (two are flush mounted and two are recessed about 1/4" inside a hole) that can be removed to allow access to the interior to remove pet hair etc.  However, only two are easily accessible and require a long star driver.  The other two would require a tool that has a flexible neck on it that would still allow you to use the star bit as they are located near the larger holes you can see inside the bottom of the canister.