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problem first started as slow spin cycle, too slow to get all the water out of clothes, they would be soaking wet after spin. occasional squealing, smells of burning belt. we would turn off washer if this occurred. i started to address problem, and very soon after (before i had even touched anything!) a leak developed at the tub seal (seal between outer tub and transmission).
a few days prior, my wife had found a bolt in the wash (i am a handy fella and sometimes will have bolts in my pocket, so it raised no alarms) upon disassembly of agitator, i found where the bolt belongs, where the trunion attaches to the agitator shaft. bolt had come undone. guessing that this caused excessive vibration, damaging bearing and seal, which made inner tub difficult to spin, hence wet clothes and burning belt. enter leak at tub seal.
anyway, i am a mechanically apt person, work in mfg/assy and am an electronics tech, im sure i can do this myself if i know what to do. i am thinking the tub seal and possibly bearing will need to be replaced...
i currently have inner tub removed, and am facing the seal, and cant seem to move the seal at all... how do i access the seal? does the outer tub need to come out?
problem has been fixed- pulling straight up on bearing and seal will slide them up and off the shaft. bearing to seal surface was gummed up, slowing down the spin cycle and eventually tore the seal due to the torque. replaced seal and bearing ($50) and washer works like a champ again.problem has been fixed- pulling straight up on bearing and seal will slide them up and off the shaft. bearing to seal surface was gummed up, slowing down the spin cycle and eventually tore the seal due to the torque. replaced seal and bearing ($50) and washer works like a champ again.
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It's not worth fixing!
If it's 10 years old or more, better off replacing it with a newer machine which will be much more efficient!
Not worth the money to fix!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Try
You should call service.:
A&E Factory Service
1-800-905-9505
Nation wide / 7days/24 hours
Good work
Please give me a "Solution Solved Rating", in this site!
Thank You
Neil
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I understand your Frigidaire laundry center, model# FGX831CS, is not spinning water out of your clothes completely. I see that on the first spin cycle the drum is not spinning and is just making noise, and on the second spin cycle the drum spins to the left very slowly and loudly. First check to see if your washer is overloaded. Try taking some clothes out and spinning them again. Secondly, make sure that the load is not out of balance. Try rearranging the clothes to allow for proper spinning. I ask that you please follow up with a comment on the post, at your convenience, to advise if further troubleshooting is needed or if your dryer status has changed successfully. Hope this is helpful.
It's possible that the tub didn't drain properly in the allotted time and the remaining water is slowing your drum from coming to maximum extraction speed.
make sure unit is level possibly lower front legs down so front sits higher,,, and also when u put or load in push the tub back so when the water enters it all enters into the tub sometimes the water will splash on the tube and cause a problem u are discribing hope this help
I think you most likely have a basin Float water level sensor that is no working correctly, the door seal is not water proof, if the water level gets over the lip of the basin it will leak on the floor.
does unit leak constant or only when spinning ther are 2 screws done low on front panel fill unit with water and watch center shaft there is a seal below basket
inside washer changing seal is a little difficult have also had this style of washer leak when starting spin cycle if water has not drained out fast enough http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Top-Load-Maytag-Style-Appliance-Diagram
this page has a break down of normal maytag top load machine part at center is called boot and seal have also had thi type unit leak where bolts go through tub
good luck ron
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:
During fill only During drain and spin only All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
problem has been fixed- pulling straight up on bearing and seal will slide them up and off the shaft. bearing to seal surface was gummed up, slowing down the spin cycle and eventually tore the seal due to the torque. replaced seal and bearing ($50) and washer works like a champ again.
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