On low volume using the clean channel the sound is great but as soon as you get to about three or more the sound gets a bit distorted,the amp is the fender hot rod deluxe, ithort i may had blown the speaker or pre amp tubes.but the volume has never been past 6 and that was only for a short time,so i dont know wat it is

Guitar amps have preamp sections (think unpowered audio mixer) and power amp sections (Crown rack-mount amp). An excellent way to isolate audio problems if amp is still producing audio is to check the preamp out (line out). Preamp output distorted = preamp failure. Connect MP3 player to "Power Amp In"...sound distorted = power amp failure. In your case the latter is the case as your "line out" is clean. Also test each speaker for clear sound as speaker cone damage from being overpowered is fairly common. At 300w. I'll assume the failure was not from cranking the volume to loud but a shorted speaker or speaker wiring could zap the power amp in an instant.

I'm not sure which amp you're playing thru. but generally the settings you want for a clean sound. check your drive (or Gain ) knob. You want it about half way.and your Channel volume, half way. those are good starts. then let your master volume do the rest. Also, make sure, if you have active pick-ups on your guitar. check the batteries. if they're low, it can cause distortion. if this doesn't resolve, then its internal. could be anything at that point.

If you are using headphones, then I'm guessing you are practicing and running the amp as quietly as possible while still able to hear it. Unfortunately, most channel switching guitar amps will have a tiny bit of bleed-through from the other channel when turned all the way down and listened to at close distance from the speaker. And yes, using a mechanical switch or relay to switch the connection from one channel to the other would mostly eliminate this, but due to the high amount of signal gain in guitar amp preamp sections, this type of switching causes very loud pops and other unwanted noise when switched. The amps are made with either photocell (optical) resistors or reverse biased transistors or op amp chips to switch channels. These are 'softer', partially because they don't fully turn off when in the off state(or fully on either). This creates bleed through, but it is better and easier than a CRACK THUMP POP!! every time you stomp the channel switch pedal. Amps are designed to be used at output levels generally much louder than a dorm room at 11:30 pm, and at stage volume in a club, the channel bleed is so far below audible, it is never heard by anyone. That's just the way it is.

You left off the one bit of info we need... however, make sure the volume control on the keyboard is around the halfway point... If it is way down, turn it up and reduce the channel volume knob some. Make sure the cable from the keyboard is an instrument rated interconnect and not one intended for speaker (usually marked as such). Make sure the keyboard AND this amp are powered from the SAME receptacle... even if you have to run an extension cord. Listen with headphones on your keyboard to make sure the sound is clean there.

Yellow should be the positive. Try plugging in and reversing. The louder of the two is the one in phase and the correct wiring. If the speaker is pushing out when playing , it is in phase and correct also.
The distortion problem could be a speaker going out. It may not be totally blown, but may be verging.
Holding your hand out as wide as you can push against the speaker lightly. If there is a rubbing or scratching sound, the speaker could be damaged.If it moves freely, and there is no scratching its okay.
Another possibility is the clean channel may have a channel volume set to high. Make sure the clean channel volume is set lower than the master volume otherwise you can get distortion on that channel too.
Good Luck.

For the Drive channel you need to use the Drive control AND the MASTER volume control. When the Drive channel is active, the Channel Indicator lamp should be RED indicating the Drive Channel is active. The Drive control knob is used to adjust the preamp volume and distortion level of the Drive Channel. This gives you a clue as to what to check if adjusting the controls doesn't work -- the preamp tubes. Having said that, ONLY try to check these tubes with the amp OFF! Never stick your hand up into the chassis of a live amp. It could be lethal. Your preamp tubes are the ones farthest from where the power cord enters the chassis. They have a rubber like stabilizer on them. They have a tendency to wiggle loose, which is part of the reason for the stabilizer. Again, if you're not familiar with the insides...stay out and get an amp tech to help you.

The Normal Channel only uses the Volume Control to adjust volume.

Realize that the number on the volume control is only relative... it means nothing regarding what the amp can produce. With a high level output guitar you can easily drive the amp into distortion at very low volume control level settings... what counts is the actual output sound volume and specifically the voltage output going to the speaker. Once the amp reaches saturation, any further input just pushes it into distortion or "flat topping".
An oscilloscope on the output will quickly show when amp starts to flat top.

CHECK VOLUME CONTROL BUTTON.

Wayne, There's a time to take the amp to a pro shop andf get it done right. It' saves time and headaches, and also keeps you from inadvertantly smoking other parts or yourself. Now is that time.

First make sure you have the TRIM knob positioned correctly. When playing loud the Red Led should just blink a bit so you know you're not overloading the preamp and Digital sections. The Twin Reverb Patch is a clean place to start so select that first. On this amp it's a good idea to set the MASTER to 5 and use the VOLUME control at as low a setting as you can. The GAIN control should be set under 4. You better sound crystal clear on this setting. Try turning up the volume to see how loud you can get without breaking up. It's a guitar amp so there will be some grainy distortion but it should be very light. I bet you get through this test without much trouble. After that you need to be very careful about what settings you're using since many of the presets may not mesh with your guitar pickups. You should concentrate on tweaking one highgain setting and learn about how the controls interact. The amp is so much more complicated than a 10 knob standard guitar amp. Most people need to put in some time to get a handle on it.

As far as the tubes go, typically they can get microphonic which was a problem with versions 1.1 and 1.0 of this amp so check that. Fender had a Cyber twin upgrade kit way back to fix this but if you have version 1.2 or 1.3 that's not it. Problems with this amp are typically caused by control setting more often than an electronic problem but this reponse should get you started figuring it out.
MYREL