[email protected] have a Dometic EA 0300Fl that will not cool at all breaker etc are fine , Is somthing else that I can test

check amp draw either bad compressor or fan motor

Are both the test breakers the same size (15A or 20A, etc)? Perhaps the breaker in the RV has a lower amp rating then the other one you are testing it on? If that's the case your test doesn't really tell you anything, they both need to be the same size to know where the problem may be.

Please reply with Model number of bottom of AC unit ( upper) . Can be seen from inside usually. Thermostat model, plus if controls are at the ceiling assy or at thermostat on wall.

That would work, if for no other reason, to isolate which one may be drawing too much/more amperage. Keep in mind as well, after a breaker trips too many times, it usually will get weak and trip at lower amperage. If all is same, ( wiring from AC units) and units are cleaned regularily and no other internal problems such as weak, bad, capacitors etc, they should both draw same or close to same. If possible that someone has a multimeter with amp draw clamp, that would confirm where trouble is.

Clean evap and cond coils
Place hand on a/c if too hot during the day but cool at night
then freon is being restricted in the condensor
Cleaning coils may help days
Put a trickle of water on the condensor during the day for a test.

.If this was helpful please rate me.
Leo Ponder Appliance-Tyler,Texas
[email protected]

Usually just listening closely will give you a rough idea where to look for problem. When you have the fan on and switch to cool, (with temperature turned down low obviously) do you hear any type of "moaning" sounds from AC unit, or see lights in RV dim slightly indicating that compressor is trying to engage? Is the breaker tripping when compressor tries to engage? Do you hear a "click" from AC unit when switched to cool? If none of that happens, then I'd start thinking thermostat, or compressor relay. Normally if it's a faulty capacitor, the compressor will try to engage but will make a "moaning sound" and usually trip the breaker due to excess current draw. Someone experience in electrical should be able to test relays etc, but whoever does work on it, should be aware that those capacitors, as well as hydro in general are very dangerous to work with. The ("zap",- Shock) that you can experience from a capacitor or hydro, can be fatal.

You need to borrow a clamp on style amp gauge, and check amp draw on black wire in box where hydro wires connect. (PLEASE, be careful, and if not experienced in this type of test, don't try it, due to likelihood of getting a shock. ) If it's the compressor kicking in that's causing the breaker to trip, and capacitor is good, then it's usually a problem with either low incoming (supply) 110-120 AC voltage, which will cause high amperage draw, or compressor on it's way out causing high amp draw. If it's only drawing 15-18 amps, and your tripping a 20 amp breaker, then breaker is getting weak.

The recall has nothing to do with your fridge not working. Your cooling unit has gone bad. And yes you can get a new fridge for a few hundred more than a new cooling unit. And sooner or later PPL motorhomes will run out of their cheap stock. The fridges they have are out of production. I know I am a Dometic dealer.

If the burner area is geting hot its has a leak

The heating element most likely has a short in it. Pull the to leads leading to it test the ohms to see if you have a short