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Anonymous Posted on Mar 05, 2011

I had a goodman ARUF split system installed 8-25-09.Since then the heat exchanger blower motot replaced,cost $602.75,outdoor condenser unit fan motor to be replaced $592,00,recommend 5/8xing valve.,compressor replaced,$1064.00,3 capacitors replaced,$109.48,,182.76,,112.24 .All this after the 5 yr warranty qyit why

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Robert

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  • Goodman Master 1,036 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2011
Robert
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Hello, Usually it has to do with the quality of the install and the brand. If it was not installed properly from the beginning then the equipment will fail prematurely. As far as the heat exchanger goes I have replaced many heat exchangers on Goodmans after 3 years being installed, Goodmans are prone to bad heat exchangers.

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  • Anonymous Mar 06, 2011

    no my quuestion is,why must all these parts must be replaced so soon after warranty on what is suposed to be a superior product
    and a t a cost as posted on my first submission

  • Robert Mar 06, 2011

    Goodman are prone too many problems like I stated earlier, I have worked on many goodmans and I see the same things on them, bad heat exchanger, control board failing, pressure switch problems etc. It all depends on what eqiupment you have and how well it's installed.

  • Anonymous Mar 09, 2011

    An a/cwhich was relaced with a goodman has been working for me well well and replaced with the goodman due to wanting lower elect cost.That a/c came with the house when i bought it 15 yrs ago..The goodmanis not seven yrs olb and even capacitors have been replaced.
    Its unbelievable the i/2 hp can cost over 500.oo#,,the compressor cost over 1100.00$and the condenser fan motor to cost over 500.00$ my next step will be the BBB and bureau of contractors..This unit was to be a top of the line a/c..how can one dispute that..Stasiek

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Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

On a cpkj 48-1B Goodman heat pump I am having condenser fan issues. runs full spedd for a while then cuts down to barely running, Even after changing the motor and capacitor.

Does the condenser utilise head pressure control to maintain head pressure? if so is the unit fully charged...r22. r410 Freon.If the unit is an older model. the fan motor only runs at 850 r.p.m design flaw. The newer units now run the fan at 1075. R.p.m. I have installed many Goodman split systems and was having problems similar to yours. Hope this. Helps you
tip

Thermostat wiring terminals and colors

R - The R terminal is the power for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer usually located in the blower section for split systems but you may find the transformer in the condensing unit. For this reason, it is a good idea to kill the power at the condensing unit and the blower section before changing or working on the wiring at the thermostat. If you have a package unit then the transformer is in the package unit.
Red for the R terminal.

RC - The RC terminal is designated for the power for cooling. Some HVAC systems use two transformers. A transformer for cooling and a transformer for heating. In this case the power from the transformer in the blower section would go to the thermostat terminal. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.
Red for RC terminal.

RH - The RH terminal is designated for the power for heating. See RC above for an explanation. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.

Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay. Typically a thermostat wire pull is made to the air handler on split systems and then this wire is spliced for the separate wire pull which is made to the condenser. Some manufacturers put a terminal board strip near the control board in the air handler so a splice is not needed.
Yellow for Y Terminal.

Y2 - This is the thermostat terminal for cooling second stage if your system is so equipped. Many systems only have a single compressor but if you have two compressors which should only operate off of one thermostat then you need the Y2 thermostat terminal for second stage cooling.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is light blue but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use. Most installers use the color coding as noted but be aware that some do not use the thermostat color coding.

W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source whether it be a gas or oil furnace, electric furnace, or boiler,
White for W Terminal.

W2 - This is the thermostat terminal used for second stage heat. There are gas furnaces with low fire and high fire and some depend on control from a two-stage heating thermostat with a W2 terminal. Heat Pumps use staging for auxiliary heat and need a W2 terminal.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is brown but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use.

G - This is the thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan. On a split system the blower fan is in the blower section while with a package unit the blower fan is in the outdoor package unit.

Green for G Terminal.

C - This is the thermostat terminal which originates from the transformer and is necessary to complete the 24 volts power circuit in the thermostat but only if the thermostat consumes electricity for power. Many digital thermostats require 24 volts for power so the common wire is necessary.
C stands for common and there is no universal color used for this terminal although black is the most common color I've seen.

O or B - These thermostat terminals are for heat pumps and the B thermostat terminal is used on for Rheem or Ruud and any manufacturer that energizes the reversing valve in heating mode for the heat pump. Most other manufacturers of heat pumps will utilize the reversing valve for cooling and the O thermostat terminal will be utilized for this purpose. This wire goes to outside heat pump condenser where the reversing valve is located.

Orange for O and Dark Blue for B depending on the installer of the heat pump and the manufacturer. If you have a Trane, Carrier, Goodman, Lennox, Ducane, Heil, Fedders, Amana, Janitrol, or any other manufacturer other than Rheem or Ruud you will be utilizing the orange wire for reversing valve. Rheem and Ruud will usually utilize the blue wire for reversing valve.

E - This thermostat terminal is for heat pumps and stands for Emergency Heating. If for whatever reason the heat pump condenser fails and it is necessary to run the heat there is an option on heat pump thermostats for emergency heating. Basically this simply utilizes the back-up heat source many heat pumps have to heat the home without sending a signal to the condenser to run for heat.

E - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the E terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

X or Aux - This thermostat terminal is for back-up on a heat pump and allows for auxiliary heating from the back-up heat source usually located in the air handler.

X or Aux - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the Aux terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

S1 & S2 or Outdoor 1 and Outdoor 2 - Some thermostats have this terminal and it used for an outdoor temperature sensor. The wire uses for this should be special shielded wire and completely separate form the other thermostat wires.







on Jun 06, 2011 • Heating & Cooling
0helpful
2answers

My goodman unit (1994) makes the loud noise, like a buzzing noise. The unit works, the blower blows air into the house, the air is cold, but the outside fan that blows across the condenser piping isn'

you need to replace your condensing fan motor. the noise you are hearing is the compressor working against a lot of pressure because the heat is building up in you condensing unit. Prolonged operation without an operating condensing fan motor will cause your compressor to burn up, and then you will have the cost of a compressor changeout to the cost of a condensing fan motor.
0helpful
1answer

I have an intertherm air cond.it blows cool but not cold air,i have all conections no leaks and everthing runs when i shut the air off at the thermastat the blower keeps running any thoughts please help....

Several problems with these units, (I just finished rebuilding mine). sounds like the fan
relay has failed. This may be due to water dripping on it. Also the sequencers that
were supplied often popped apart( the new ones are clipped together with metal bands)
I would replace both as I have already done.
The outdoor condenser sounds like it is stuck, which is a reversing valve problem.
If the lineset is cool but not really cold, then this is the problem.
luckily the parts are inexpensive for the air handler but the outdoor unit problem
is expensive to repair and I just replaced it as a unit, The good news is that it dropped
the electric bill 84 dollars the first month in february heat mode.
If you can install a new system, I would recommend a Goodman 13 seer minimum. They
are efficient, quiet and less expensive, if your unit is 13 seer on the indoor
air handler it can be
fitted up with a new outdoor condenser. Hope this is useful.
1helpful
1answer

We have a goodman split unit, It was below freezing the other morning and the unit had a squeaking sound when it started up. Now it has warmed back up, the unit is sounding as if it's trying to kick off...

The symptoms seem to be related to the main blower motor and/or it's capacitor. Turn the system off for a couple of minutes and then turn just the fan on while the thermostats heat setting is in the off position. If the lights still dim then replace the motor and capacitor. The clicking noise is the fan relay.
0helpful
1answer

I have a honeywell Design Air reverse cycle aircondton system. Two weeks back it stopped working. When I switch it on it starts the system. The air is flowing but it is not cooling. what could be wrong and...

Hi, Just to to let you know, I am a contractor for heating and air conditioning. You have a split system heat pump it sounds like to me. If you have the indoor unit and an outdoor unit, this is a split. If the blower is running but not getting cold air, there could be several problems that would cause this. The service tech should be able to troubleshoot and find the problem in 1 hour or less. Depending on who you call, you are looking at anywhere from $65.00 to $85.00 per hour. Some places also charge you a travel or truck charge of $20.00, try and stay away from them. It will be a 1 hour minimum and in 1/4 hours there after. It could be a quick fix, breaker, fuse, or a serious problem as a compressor. This is what you are looking at. If you do have a split system and the outdoor unit is not on, check the breakers and fuses before you call any one. This may save you many $$$$$!! If you have a system that is all in one or a package unit and the blower comes on, make sure the outdoor fan is running ( condenser fan motor ) and listen to see if you can hear the compressor running. If you do have a split unit, go to the outdoor unit and see if the fan is running and compressor also. If not, check you're power supply. You may get lucky.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
1helpful
1answer

The ac comes on but the fan is not turning or comes on

Hi, I assume this is a split system, with the indoor and outdoor unit. If you are talking about the fan on the outdoor unit, this is the condenser fan motor. It is exposed to the heat of the ambient temp. and removing the heat from indoors. If you have a heat pump, this motor runs year around and gets a lot of use. I have seen the 5mfd run capacitor fail which could cause this motor not to start, but more than likely the condenser fan motor has burned out.If it is the outdoor unit you are talking about, can you hear the compressor come on when you start it? You may stand by the unit and have someone turn the t-stat to cool and see if you hear it come on. It will shut off after awhile due to high head pressure. But, if nothing happens, you may not be getting power from the breaker being tripped or a blown fuse at the disconnect box at the unit.Check these before calling out a tech.If you are talking about the indoor fan, make sure the panels are on good if its a gas unit as there is a door switch that is closed and if the panel is loose, it will stop the fan from coming on. The indoor blower motor may also be burned out. It shouldn't take more then an hour at the most to find out what is causing this problem. Could be a fan relay. I would recommend calling a qualified a/c Co. to come out and check this. Wish I was there and could be of more help.
Good Luck, Sincerely, Shastalaker7
0helpful
1answer

Fan making noise squeeking etc

ok not sure which fan or country your in but here in Australia if its the out door fan, should not cost more than $1200  if its the indoor roughly the same depending on access , may cost a bit more for labour but ... ok fan only cost indoor $600 outdoor $450 to $800 depending on weather the fan blade is seized or not, if its seized then a new blade can set you back To the $800 buck mark including the motor 
0helpful
1answer

Goodman heat pump aruf estrips on all the time

cross check your info plate on the outdoor unit with the curcuit breaker installed in the main panel.
0helpful
1answer

Connecting electronic air filter to furnace fan

You may need a "current sensing relay" to clip around the neutral wire on your blower.
Run the 120v power to the main power (the power switch- hot,neutral and ground) . Run the Hot wire through the "Current Sesing Relay" wires to the EAC unit's 120v. power input. The unit will only run when the fan is on.

Hope this helps,
Matt
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