I can adjust the vertical direction of the vane control to the "downward" postion, directing the flow of cool air from the unit downward, toward the floor. It stays in that position for an hour or two and then returns to the "straight out" position, blowing cold air directly out in an unwanted direction. I then have to turn the unit off, and restart it. Without any resetting on the remote, it then returns to the desired "downward" vane position and contiunes to operate that way for an hour or two before it again reverts to the direct out position which I generally do not want. Can't the desired downward vane position be maintained throughout the operation of the unit? Am I doing something wrong in "programming" the vane control via the remote?
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There are two main types of governor and the centrifugal type tends to be reserved for heavier stationary type engines. Most portable lightweight appliances use a vane-type governor where a vane is placed adjacent to the cooling fan so the faster the engine revs the more air is moved and the more the vane will move against it's restraining spring.
There is a spring biasing the throttle to fully open and this spring is connected to the throttle or speed control lever.
There is a link connecting the throttle to the vane. After starting the engine speed will rise until the governor vane moves under the rush of cooling air forcing the throttle butterfly to close against the spring pressure until the vane pressure and the spring pressure are equal and therefore a constant engine speed is achieved.
Moving the speed control lever to increase speed tensions the spring and opens the butterfly causing the engine speed to rise until the vane force again equals the spring pressure.
This is a fairly basic but very common type. There are variations using two or three springs but the principle remains the same.
governors on small engines common to used in lawn tractors ,use a fan governor system , there is a cooling fan built into flywheel , as it spins faster it makes more air and this air is directed towards a paddle that's connected to throttle shaft via a spring , this same springs tension is what controls how much force it takes to move the paddle in the air flow , if your engine speed is hunting (up/down) first eliminate any possible carb flow problems (#1 cause) then you can replace spring on paddle shaft as well (they do get fatigued )
There are quite a few possible answers to this because you did not specify what type of unit you are asking about: Central Air, Window unit, Stand-alone-upright Unit, etc.
If this is a central-air unit or a unit that uses your furnace blower to circulate air, then in most cases the filter is a square or rectangular shape and is between 1 and 4 inches thick. The "Direction" the air flows through the filter is indicated by a set of arrows printed on the thin edge of the filter - usually with the word "flow" or "Air flow". Insert the filter with the arrow(s) pointing toward the furnace/blower. Another way to determine flow direction is if the filter has a mesh or screen on one side of the filter media. In this case the screen or mesh would go toward the furnace/blower when the filter is inserted.
If the car goes in "limp mode"!!! After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded 1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
The boost-pressure control solenoid valve is placed in front right side of the cylinder block. Follow the rubber vacuum pipe direction, going from the turbocharger actuator toward the boost-pressure control solenoid valve.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3. 3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp mode" engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory! 4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.
The heater core is a small heat exchanger located inside the
truck, similar to the radiator at the front of the truck. Coolant is
circulated from the engine through the heater core and back to the
engine. The heater fan blows fresh, outside air through the heater core;
the air is heated and sent on to the interior of the truck. For Toyota Pick-ups/Land Cruiser/4Runner 1989-1996 check this reference repair guide...
Heater Core - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION (see Figure 1)
Drain the cooling system.
Remove the heater unit assembly. Have alot of towels handy for the leakage of coolant that may spill into your interior.
Remove the fasteners securing the core to the unit, remove the plates and clamps. Pull upwards to remove the core from the unit.
Inspect the core fins for any blockage. Using compressed air, clean them.
Install the core into the unit placing the plates and clamps into position. Tighten the core screws.
Install the heater unit into the vehicle.
Fill the cooling system.
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the heater unit assembly-1996 4Runner shown
Heater Unit - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION (see Figure 1)
Have alot of towels handy for the leakage of coolant that may spill into your interior.
Discharge the A/C system (if applicable), using an approved recovery/recycling machine.
Remove the cooling unit (if applicable).
Drain the cooling system.
When draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are
attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left
in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove
fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable
container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is
several years old.
Disconnect the hoses to the heater core. Tag each one so that it may be correctly reinstalled.
On some models you will need to remove the glove box assembly. On others, the instrument panel and reinforcement.
At the heater case under the dash, disconnect the ductwork from the case.
Disconnect the heater control cables from the heater case. Lift
the spring clip holding the control cable to allow the cable to be
manipulated. Don't deform or crimp the cables.
Disconnect the wiring harness to the blower fan.
Remove the three or four bolts holding the heater case to the
dash. Because the inlet tubes project through the firewall, the unit
will not fall straight down. It will need to be pulled into the
passenger compartment and then brought downward.
Lift the case into position and carefully place the inlet and
outlet pipes through the firewall. Install the retaining bolts holding
the case to the dash.
Connect the wiring harness to the blower fan.
Connect the control cables to their linkages. Each must be
adjusted so that the motion of the dashboard lever causes the correct
corresponding motion in the air door. Both the control lever and the
door must reach maximum travel at the same time if full function is to
Set the dashboard control to FRESH. Lift the adjustment clip and
adjust the air inlet cable towards the heater unit until the linkage is
at its maximum travel on Pick-Up and 4Runner. For Land Cruiser, adjust
the cable away from the case. Release the adjustment clip.
Set the dashboard control to VENT (Pick-Up) or DEF (4Runner and
Land Cruiser). Lift the adjustment clip and adjust the air flow control
cable towards the heater unit until the linkage is at its maximum
travel. Release the adjustment clip.
Set the temperature control to COOL. Lift the adjustment clip and
adjust the air mix control damper control cable away from the heater
case until the linkage is at its maximum travel on . For Land Cruiser,
adjust the cable towards the case.
Connect or reinstall the ductwork. Make certain each tube is
firmly and completely fitted on its port. A light spray of glass cleaner
serves as a good lubricant; don't use too much.
Install the glove box and/or instrument panel assembly.
Connect the heater hoses. Use new clamps.
Install the cooling unit (if equipped).
Refill the coolant, then charge the A/C system (if equipped).
there is a plastic vane that moves in response to the air flow created by the flywheel fan ... the faster the motor runs the more air and the more the vane is deflected .. the vane is connected to the throttle thru a spring .. as the vane is deflected it reduces the throttle setting to maintain a set speed (which is adjustable by a screw) ... if that vane becomes stuck by a leaf or twig then you lose that speed control .. also if it becomes disconnected from the throttle the engine will run away .. the manual on your generator will call that a "govener "