Question about Reddy R60A Utility Heater

1 Answer

I replaced the rotor in my heater and set the pressure to 5 psi...the spec is 4.7 but it won't stay running at that. It works again but it doesn't seem as hot as it was and also the fumes it makes now burn your eyes and would probably kill you if you breathed them too long. Raising and lowering the pressure doesn't seem to help.

Posted by jefferb428 on

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Rich Landrum

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  • 4,736 Answers

There are a host of things that could cause this problem. Here are just a few:

  • The air output and input filters may need cleaning.
  • Air intake filter may be clogged.
  • Fuel filter needs cleaning.
  • Contaminated Kerosene.
Here's a link that will help you further. Be sure to take a look a page # 8 (Trouble Shooting). You can download and print this for future reference.

http://www.desatech.com/manuals/Construction%20Heaters/113893-01.pdf

Hope this helps you solve your problem.

Posted on Mar 02, 2011

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1 Answer

Starts then shuts off


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Feb 17, 2015 | Reddy R60A Utility Heater

1 Answer

Starts then shuts down


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Mar 02, 2014 | Reddy Heater-170,000 BTU Kerosene Deluxe

1 Answer

Runs when started but won't stay running.


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

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1 Answer

Porta heat 55 model 50137 does not work, fuel problems


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Jan 21, 2013 | Reddy Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My kerosene torpedo heater turns on but then it dies after five seconds


REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.
  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

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#3&4 cyl. Have spark and fuel but air idle screws don't do anything. When warming up backfired out exhaust and carbs


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Dayton 70,000 btu kerosene heater only runs consistently with 3/4 of a tank of fuel or more. Once it is below 3/4 it keeps shutting off. I have cleaned filters, tried to set pressure but pressure won't go...


If you can only get 4 psi from the pump then you have a problem with the rotor. This could be from the vanes not coming out properly of if you have replaced or serviced the rotor you may not have the clearance set properly between the pump ring and the top of the rotor.
Make sure to inspect the pump cover for any small cracks..

If you pump pressure in not enough the unit will not be able to pull fuel from the tank and you will see the burner cone slowly start to go from the orange color to a dark color and the unit will shut down.

Feb 10, 2010 | Dayton (3E386) Heater

1 Answer

What is pressure setting? Also, front grill does


go online to find specs. but somewhere between 3 and 5 psi. pressure setting is on back .should b two screws one pressure port other pressure adjustment.

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2 Answers

Look below


make sure air and fuel filter are clean.Set pump pressure to mfg set pressure after two minutes of operation

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1 Answer

165,000 forced air reddy heater


It would help if I knew the model of heater because there are 2 different technologies that are used in Reddy Heaters. Having more information could affect my answer.

Generally, if a heater runs with the lid off but shuts down with the lid on, its a sign that either the air pump pressure is not to specs or the nozzle is restricted or worn out. Desa International, the manufacturer, recommends annual replacement of the nozzle, but this is arguable, depending on the age of the heater.

I am pasting a document that I've had around for awhile, that may help:

"A worn nozzle creates a spray pattern, where a good nozzle creates a fog. With a coarse spray pattern poor combustion results in an off color flame, . The photocell doesn’t like the color, sends a signal to the computer which shuts everything down. That’s the job of the electronics. On HSI heaters it is all about correct flame color , not just flame.

The part where you write "If I remove the cover again it runs fine" is a symptom of a bad, worn, or restricted nozzle. Remember- the ignitor only stays red for 5 seconds, then the flame keeps itself lit. The nozzle's pattern is a cone. Lift the lid & the pattern widens (aerodynamics) - replace the lid and the cone narrows & possibly distorts then the flame goes out.

This nozzle rule will only apply if everything is correct as far as fuel delivery applies. The pump pressure must be correct- not almost correct. Set the pressure with a low-pressure gauge that registers12-15 psi max. A gauge with a higher scale just will not read close enough to satisfy the system. If the pressure is not correct, the above rule will not apply. Instructions for setting the pressure can be viewed at http://reddyparts.com/pressure.htm.

In addition, a fan can cause the same problem if damaged or mis-matched to your specific model.

I must mention that any air leaks on the pressure side (or vacuum leaks on the fuel line, for that matter) between the pump and the nozzle will create a rich/lean mixture at the combustion chamber, creating an off-color flame."

Good luck, I hope this helps.

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