My refrigerator went warm overnight, I unplugged it took the back off and seen a little black box that said electronically protected and plug's into the electrical part on the side of the compressor I tapped it with my flash light and plugged it back in. The fan came on but no cold air. I unplugged it again and basically blew on it , and plugged it back in and the fan came on again but this time it blew cold? It has been blowing cold for about 2 days again. Any ideas?

Lilly Spence... hello,

There is several quite obscure "things" that could have happened to your refrigerator...

Presuming OWNERS MANUAL "RESET" failed.

I can only talk in GLOBAL/TYPICAL terms without your make & model number... If you don't mind spending a wad of money and learning nothing in the process... you need only find a competent repair person... they will pluck off the bottom grill ... pop out the "black box" with your PCB (printed circuit board)... here-in-after
we will call that your "power control board" and either find that bad solder joint... or discover the board resident relay or transformer DID NOT SURVIVE...

On my refrigerator 22 year old AMANA (which I love) that part has become quite rare (just because of time... but there are repair services that can refurbish OLD packs (10 days end to end & $100 - $200 later)

BUT THE NEWER, SMARTER... high end refrigerators
have a real "Power CONTROL BOARD" typically under the frig (above the defrost tray... It is, in fact, one of the EASIEST replacement parts to perform on the REFRIGERATORS...
of today.

On my refrigerator 22 year old AMANA (SBDE20S4SW which I love) that part has become quite rare (just because of time... but there are repair services that can refurbish OLD packs (10 days end to end & $100 - $200 later)... I fund one on eBay ... $195.

TURNED OFF THE BREAKER...

CIRCUIT BOARD 12106802: Replacement fiasco:

- Wiggled out the defrost tray (took pictures with my camera)

- Unplugged the door (control panel) wires from front (took pictures with my camera)

- Took out the one ***** hold box up... and slid it (wires & all) out to work on.

- Removed one top ***** & removed box cover (a lot of wires = lots more USABLE pictures!!)

- Changed the board... (TURNED CIRCUIT BREAKER ON) worked fine...!!

- Found my bad solder joint repaired/replaced it ... (TURNED CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF/ON)

- Put old board back in...
(control lights flashing... refrigerator NOT working).
(BREAKER off)

- Took CLOSE look at pictures (found red/white transformer CONNECTORs EXACTLY WRONG... (fixed)

(BREAKER ON)... Works great!

Have spare (12106802 PCB)... Plan on keeping it forever.
Story moral: $195 later (I didn't need to spend)...
Happy happy happy.

You can make yourself prouder.

PLEASE NOTE... The "BREAKER" ... I never recommend touching ANY electronics without STATIC (ESD) protection.
A tiny (teeniest) static discharge around the MOST ROBUST electronics can destroy it... If the breaker is off... the refrigerator is still plugged in.. ergo FULLY GROUNDED... The likelihood of static discharge is quite remote... Just remember to ground your hand(s) to the refrigerator (always) before touching any electronics there-in.

Same reason all electronics are shipped in (silverized or PINK static) bags...


So get that MAKE & MODEL... check the sites below...
Any questions comment me back... I shall return
(my baby is having her 50th) needs sympathy too.

appliancepartspros... recommend... (also try, 3 estimates!)
SEARSPARTSDIRECT.COM
Partssselect.COM
repairclinic.COM
Easyapplianceparts.COM




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Let it stay plugged in a while. It probably went into defrost.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

no defrost taking place
a clock
b heater element/hot gas valve
defrost terminator or safety fuse

Cleaned the back vents and the coils

if you can hear a fan blowing in the freezer that is probably not the problem. If it is at all possible could you clear out the fridge overnight. If so, do so, unplug refrigerator with doors open overnight and plug it in in the morning. If it returns to cooling you probably have a defrost problem, but you at least have a couple days to fix it.

Suggest that it be serviced by an authorized Husqvarna Viking Dealer. You can find the nearest dealer by click on the "Dealer" link at http://www.husqvarnaviking.com
Good luck.

defrost problem

I followed the suggestion of the person that posted a response, unplugged the refrigerator and after 10 minutes plugged it back in the refrigerator has been working since then.

those's little black boxes are relays,or could be called a switch.when you chose a function of your refer it relays thru that board and to the part that needs energized.i'm not sure if its the board bad but i don't think Therese any thing else to suspect.you could look at your refer's tech sheet,it may have some checks for you to do.the relays are not replaceable by themselves.i hope this is a start sorry can't tell more,God bless ,tom

sounds like the compressor is locked up or the relay on the compressor is bad. whats happening is its drawing too much current and cutting out from the overlaod relay. that may be a bad compressor or the start relay. both the overload and the relay are under the black box on the front of the compressor. you will need to check the relay to make sure its good, and also the compressor. there should be a wiring diagram on the back that will tell you how many ohms from terminal to terminal on the compressor. hope it helped if its a newer unit the relays are electronic and if you shake it and hear like little sand pebbles in it most likley its bad and thats why it wont run.