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The amp has constant power, even when I unhook the entire unit from both ends multimeter reading 12.27 I have never encountered anything like this. Thank you

Posted by jvoe23 on


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This amp likely has several capacitors inside that drain very slowly after being unhooked. If you keep monitoring the voltage, you should see it go down slowly over several minutes.

Posted on Mar 02, 2011


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Related Questions:


Yellow wire; what does it connect to? Blue Wire; what does it connect to as I don't have a power antena. Is there a way to wire the unit so that the key needs to be on to play the 'radio'?

If you do not have a power antenna you will not hook anything to the blue wire, if you have an amp you can use the blue wire for a remote turn on for the amp, otherwise leave it unhooked and tape the end so as not to cause a short. The yellow wire should be your constant power and the red wire should be your key on power (or vise versa) Not sure what radio you have, but you should be able to google your model number and get a diagram for it. You will hook either the red or the yellow to constant power to save your station and clock settings, and the other hook to a keyed power source so the radio will work when you turn the key to acc or on positions.

Mycharger on my samsung table 10.1 tab 2 won charge please help

The problem might be that your battery is too old. Rechargeable batteries have a limited number of charges that it can undergo.. usually between 300 and 500, before it starts to not hold much power anymore.. If it's not the battery,
I suggest you test the charger.
if you have a multimeter/voltmeter, unplug the charger from the wall socket and tablet. Set multimeter to measure Resistance/Ohms.. Touch one end of your meter cable to one of the charger pins(that you would otherwise stick into the wall socket) & the other end to the end you otherwise stick into the tablet.. all you're looking for is 'some' measurement... if you get a reading, test the other pin (wall socket end of the charger) .. if you get a reading again, then your charger should be fine.
Next look at your tablet, where you stick the charger into.. does anything seem loose/out of place? if no.. call the shop you bought it from an ask for assistance over the phone (typically shops offer advice freely over the phone)

I have a constant power leak on my 2000 Lincoln LS v8 39L I've light tested both fuse boxes and I've came up with two fuses the AC Clutch and the PJB what should I do to fix these problems

If by 'power leak' you mean 'system draw', swap out the a/c clutch relay with another relay in the box (lights, horn) and see if your draw goes away. Ford had a problem with their relays staying on. Don't forget, high end Ford/Lincoln cars take 15 - 20 minutes to power down their systems.

New batterey an new alternator still dies when i unhook pos cable

Where both rebuilt alternators any good
& retested at store?

Your explaining a constant voltage drop,
once the battery is hooked up.

How about the ignition switch?
Does that have anything to do with
the regulator control in alternator?

You haven't said you have 14 plus volts
with motor running,so basically you don't
have an alternator charging your new battery
& the ignition currant, even without the lights on,
is running down the battery

All I said is what you already know

I'm is missing something?

Don't unhook any battery cables with
the motor running,were not living in the 1960's

Those type tests will ruin many things on newer
vehicles, than yours,loose that practice & also avoid
jump starting any vehicle from 1996 on

Our dehumidifier will not stay on for longer than 30 seconds.

Check the compressor relay. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay , overload protector and the electrical terminals of the compressor motor. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing.
How To Test the Compressor Relay

Test the compressor relay for continuity using a multimeter . Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1.
With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M". The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up).

With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The multimeter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up).
Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L".

The multimeter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity.
With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M".

The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms.
If the compressor relay does not pass all of these tests, it should be replaced.



Im not a mechanic and am familiar with my vehicle, the battery has been checked and is fine when hooked up it sparks but there is something severe that is draining the battery within an hour or two. It...

I do not think you have a short circuit because it would blow a fuse or burn the insulation off the wire and smoke a lot. Therefore, if the battery is being drained it could be a component pulling too much current when the vehicle is off. I have seen when the ignition is switched off the accessory power is in the on position, which will drain the battery. I find it strange that if you jiggle your cable the vehicle may start. This makes me think it could be a lose ground connection. You will have some components with constant power and if the positive or ground connection is loose or bad it will pull more current from your battery. So check connections to the block chassis and fuse bus first. If you obtain a multimeter (Volt-Ohm-Amp) and set it to amps to read current you can narrow the possible cause. Understand the meter may only read a maximum of 500 milliamps .5 amps or 10 amps so make sure the engine off so you do not max out your meter. Disconnect one end of your battery (Pos or Neg) and set your meter on amps and make sure you have your meter probes plugged in correctly to read amps. Connect one end of the meter probe to the battery cable and the other to the battery. You should see a reading on your meter. If you take a jumper cable and connect it to the vehicle chassis and the other end to the multimeter and the other multimeter probe to the negative terminal of the battery the current reading should be the same. If the reading is less then your ground connection on your vehicle is bad. Open the fuse box and randomly pull a relay and note the amperage reading on your meter. If you see the current drop note the relay and current reading on a piece of paper then replace the relay. If the current did not drop put a piece of masking tape on it to mark it as being tested. Now start pulling and replacing fuses again looking at the current reading for any changes noting the change on paper. Do the same for the fuse box and relays inside the vehicle. You can now see which components are pulling current when your vehicle is off which should help you find your problem.

Hifonics brutus bxi 2008 amp. no power output


MPC ClientPro 1.6 GHz system unit won't power off

Usually, when you hold an ATX power button down for more than 3 seconds, it forces the system to power down. If this is not the case, there may be a hardware problem.

This is a type of hardware problem that I have encountered when one of the cables in a system is stuck on incorrectly. I've encountered this when people:
a) don't have the extra 15v cable correctly inserted on their mainboard.
b) have the flat cable of a floppy disk drive or LS drive inserted the wrong way around,
c) a harddrive or ROMdrive cable incorrectly inserted and / or
d) when the cables between the pc housing and mainboard are incorrectly connected.

If you have just recently installed hardware or someone has just recently worked on it, read the manual of the mainboard and check the settings of the connected cables on the mainboard and drives.

A power light on a PC often turns red when a disk drive is active. That's not a good state in which to constantly power down the PC, because one shouldn't often turn off the computer while it is reading the hard disk, otherwise data corruption or even worse, hard disk damage may occur.

Amp Power LED Display blinks red and no sound

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. Does the voltage on either the B+ or remote pulse below ~11 volts when the LED flashes?

No sound

It's very likely that you have a factory amplifier in the vehicle that needs to be either turned on or (preferably) bypassed to get sound to the speakers. If your vehicle is a Mustang, it's almost certain that you have a factory amp. If the factory plug includes a long, 8-pin gray plug and a small, square 8-pin plug connected to a round cable, then the amp turn-on wire is at the opposite end of the gray plug from the constant power wire. This needs to be connected to the blue/white wire on the Sony head unit for the factory amp to turn on. Otherwise, if you dig into the radio cavity a little bit, you'll find a black 8-pin connector that looks very similar to the gray connector at the back of the radio. The black connector pins are connected directly to the speakers, bypassing the factory amp.
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