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Bad coolant thermostat. Faulty thermo fan sender switch. Thermo fan motor burnt out. Bad thermo fan relay. Radiator core blocked. Low coolant level. Temperature gauge and/or gauge sender faulty. Ground leads have a bad connection (corroded/broken/fouled from oil and grease/bolts or screws loose)
Trying to light your pilot light and it keeps going out when you turn on you gas valve. This is a common problem when your thermo-couple goes out. The thermo-couple sends a small electrical charge to the gas valve to keep its self lit. When the unit calls for heat the pilot flame gets bigger producing more electric and tells the gas valve to open the main gas valve to the burner tubes. The thermo-couple is an easy item to change most of the time. You will need to follow these steps to change out your thermo-couple:
1. Turn off the gas (there is an inline shut off on the supply line before it reaches the gas valve, you need to turn this crossways to the pipe)
2. Locate the thermo-couple it will look like this and be attached to the gas valve
3. Unscrew the thermo-couple from the gas valve
4. Remove the other end of the thermo-couple from the pilot holder
5. Measure or take the old thermo-couple to the hardware or appliance store with you to get the proper length (there are many different lengths of thermo-couples)
6. Reinstall the bulb end at the pilot
7. Reinstall the threaded end on the Gas Valve (make sure not to cross thread the thermo-couple it should start by hand)
8. Turn the gas valve to the pilot position and hold down the red button wait a few seconds then turn off and do again (you will need to do this around 5 times in order to get the gas back up to the pilot light then try and light the pilot)
9. Try to ignite the pilot light.
10. Once you get the pilot light lit you will want to hold down the button for 60 seconds then turn the gas valve to the on position.
Here is an image of a thermo-couple (they will all look similar to this):
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check the thermo switch on the radiator use some wire and connect the pins, if the fans come on then change the thermo switch, if they don't come on then the relay needs replacing. thermo switch works off negative feed so there should be no sparks if their is a spark then the electrics is a problem.
thermo fan not cutting in /clutch fan faulty.
headgasket blowen...check for bubbles in the radiator if lots of bubbles then its a headgasket /cylinderhead problem
Drain the coolent, fan switch is usually on the radiator 2 wire switch disconnect wire coupler unscrew and replace. Thermo usually on the head/ barrels or the thermostat if its exturnal (one wire switch) unscrew and replace.
Hi, I would check the white thermo fuse to see if it's blown. If the thermo fuse it bad it will keep the motor from running. Without a model number it's hard to give much detail, but here is a video that should be similar to your whirlpool dryer that shows you how to replace a thermo fuse. Most all Whirlpool Dryer thermo fuses are white in color. They show the most common one in the video, but your could be a little different shape too.
You have to take the kettle apart and see the spec for the thermo fuse. You can get these at most any electronics parts supplier for appliances.
To change the thermo fuse you will need the proper crimp type connectors and the crimp tool. This is not able to be soldered. It runs too hot, and soldering in a circuit close to a heating element is not able to be used.
Before changing the thermo fuse, you can test it with an ohm meter. It should typicaly read about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. The heating element resistance should typicaly read about 8 to 12 ohms.
If the heating element reads below 6 to 7 ohms on a well calibrated ohm meter, or above 15 ohms, it is defective.
If the thermo fuse is blown, the kettle may have been left running when boiled out and over heated, or there is a short in the heating element.
If you feel that you are not comfortable to do this type of repair, it would be best to give the kettle out to an appliance service centre to have it serviced.
When you change the thermo fuse, and if it blows again the heating element is probably damaged. It must be replaced if possible, or if worth the cost.
On the other hand, if the kettle is more than a few years old and you don't want to go to all this trouble, you may want to consider to simply get a new one.
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