It is getting power, the light is on and the timer is running but nothing to the motor and no heat. drum does not spin

Dryer will not shut off:

The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle?


1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.

2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.

Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while

Does the motor run? If it does may be a broken drum belt. If it don't Be sure you have power the the dryer. Check it where the power cord hooks to the dryer. Should have 110 volts to each of the outside terminals from the center terminal & 220 from one outside terminal to to the other outside terminal.Check the door switch, check with ohm meter or use a jumper wire to bypass it. Check the thermal fuse. Could be a bad motor or timer. Also you could check if the motor will run with the drum belt off. Also you could check if you are getting voltage to the motor with the timer set to run. Hope this helps

try holding the door switch with your finger and turning the drum with your hand after you push the start button , if this does not start it then you will have to replace the motor

Sounds like you broke the belt

M460 means nothing as far as failures, it is a designation of a style of timer from Midwest timers. If you had no heat it could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem like a burnt timer contact, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE



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Good day. Ugly problem.
My first choice would have been the motor, but.......
Here is the process, it might help you.
The power to the motor goes first to and thru the door switch. It then returns to the timer.
When the timer is turned to any running position, power leaves the timer where it is split into 2 leads.

One of the power leads goes directly to the centrifugal switch Which is the switch on the motor with all the wires. If you spin the drum, you also spin the motor, and if spun fast enough will close the contacts on the cetrifugal switch, thus sending power to the motor, allowing it to run. I guess you have done that.

The second lead out of the timer goes to the push to start switch, it then leaves and goes to the centrifugal switch but on the power side, so it is directly connected to the main winding in the motor.
That is why when you press the press to start switch, the motor runs, and if held in it will continue to run.
In fact, at this point, the motor had 2 sources of power, either of which can run the motor.
Thus releasing the push to start switch doesn't matter, since it runs off the other source.

Possibilities.
The centrifugal switch is not wired right. Please recheck. (or the motor was bad out of the box. Happens).
The push to start switch is bad, and needs replaced.
Or, the wiring going to or leaving the push to start switch has broken or making a bad connection.
Lastley, I said the power comes out of the timer and splits into 2 circuits. Not always true, in some models the timer sends 2 seperate wires out carrying the power, with the possibility the timer could be bad.

Hope this helps.
and thank for using FixYa

Reach inside and turn the drum by hand. If it seems stiff then the rollers or glides need replacement. If the drum is pinching then that makes the motor get hot and quit.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Can you still hear the motor turning? If the motor is running but the drum is not then it is probably a broken belt or there may be something blocking the drum from spinning. The first thing to check is if the drum will turn by hand. If so, the next thing to check is if the belt has broken or slipped off. Although it is a bit cumbersome to replace, it is easy to diagnose. Unscrew the screws holding the back of the dryer on and pull the cover off. Look at the pulleys on the motor and see if the belt is intact. If those solutions don't do the trick, let me know and I will try to give you other options.

ok power to the motor but is motor spinning? also check pully make sure its secured to motor shaft.

sounds a s if you have ablockage within oyour pump assy, remove th elower acess panel and undo the "button trap" your problaby clogged up, the drain pump is humming, causeit cant pump any water