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I have a GE electric range, M#JBP220K1AD. While turning on the left front surface element, it sparked by the element control and blew the fuses for the whole apartment. I checked it out--checked the element with a meter and it seems the element is good. Checked the wiring and didn't see anything that looked bad. I didn't see any arc damage. Then, I replaced the burner control and everything seemed to work. But then it happened again. Spark--and blown apartment circuit. With something this dramatic I would expect to see something obviously wrong. I know it's kind of an old stove but I wish I could figure out what's going on. Thanks for any help!
I was also thinking that it could very well be the surface element. It would explain the problem but I've never come across a burner that tested good and then do something like this. I did look at the element and checked it out for cracks or other damage but it looked ok from the outside. Maybe something changes when it gets hot.
I looked at the wires and they seem fine. I guess I could change the control again and also the burner and see what happens. It'll probably be another $60, though.
Thanks for your comment and any other comment!I was also thinking that it could very well be the surface element. It would explain the problem but I've never come across a burner that tested good and then do something like this. I did look at the element and checked it out for cracks or other damage but it looked ok from the outside. Maybe something changes when it gets hot.
I looked at the wires and they seem fine. I guess I could change the control again and also the burner and see what happens. It'll probably be another $60, though.
Thanks for your comment and any other comment!
I'm going to try it out. It's what I was thinking, too, but needed a second opinion. Thank you!I'm going to try it out. It's what I was thinking, too, but needed a second opinion. Thank you!
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Re: I have a GE electric range, M#JBP220K1AD. While...
Hi, it sounds like the element has a short in it. unplug the range, and take the element out and inspect if for burn marks. check the wires going to the element to make sure they have not shorted.
Maybe you should change the burner as you have suggested and let's see what happens...Maybe you should change the burner as you have suggested and let's see what happens...
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Normally, the E.O.C. (electronic oven control) only controls power the ehe bake/broil side for the oven. Doesn't control power to the element. If you have already replaced the infinite switch to that eye, the element itself could be faulty. There is a sensor inside the element that is supposed to communicate with the infinite switch to determine the proper cycling temp for what you selected.
your bake element blew look at it to see if it is broken. if it is replace. the main breaker blew in breaker box .most likely .or a wire is burnt take off back panel and look .unplug first .good luck
Several possibilities: 1: Fuses blew under the top cover. Oven fuses will not affect top burners. 2: Element has burned out. Top element only heats when you try to warm the oven. 3: controller has burned out. A controller can cost $150 - $600 for digital. You might want a tech to confirm before you change this one.
what makes you think its a fuse?
does your broil element come on?
If it does..probably not a fuse check the bake element for breaks or current test it.
There are a few things to check for. Make sure the electrode ( the small metal piece that the spark comes off from ) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes andNOTa tooth pick as these can break off and make things worse.Example of a burner. The next thing to check for are theignition switchesunder the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a badsparkmodule, replace it. Sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches, try drying them with an hair dryer to see of this will help.Repair and checking tips for surface burners.
mvek, If you could see through the glass, you'd see "temperature sensors" located near the elements. They're very sensitive little guys, and rightly so! Their job is to detect temps and energize the warning light on the cooktop so users won't get burned.
To answer your question... It appears that there is an issue with the front left sensor (and possibly the right as well). The temp warning lamps should NEVER go off immediately. Please call for warranty repair (1-800-GE-CARES). This is an unsafe condition for you and your Family. The warning indicators are there for a reason and should indicate high temp's as long as high temp's are present.
The exterior panel (stainless in my case) is "glued" by adhesive to a lower metal piece which attaches to the door. I know this because my front panel came unglued and there is no other means of support. I am buying a very expensive new front panel.
I was also thinking that it could very well be the surface element. It would explain the problem but I've never come across a burner that tested good and then do something like this. I did look at the element and checked it out for cracks or other damage but it looked ok from the outside. Maybe something changes when it gets hot.
I looked at the wires and they seem fine. I guess I could change the control again and also the burner and see what happens. It'll probably be another $60, though.
Thanks for your comment and any other comment!
I'm going to try it out. It's what I was thinking, too, but needed a second opinion. Thank you!
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