Need to know where to set low power set up for amp thanks

I suspect that the pre-amp stage in you amp has failed. What you are hearing is the power amp on full volume. But with no pre-amp to boost the signal it's to low.
What we do know is that the sound is going into the pre-amp and out for you to hear it. This could mean that the power to the pre-amp stage is low, but still present.
Pre-amps these days mostly consist of a single IC. That could have failed, or it is not getting power. Since it would be possible to test the voltages to the IC, one pin should have something on it to the region of 6 to say 20 volts going into it. If the IC has that going to it, it has failed. If the voltages to all the pins are low, then you have a power problem.

Do some tests: Plug a set of headphones into the line outs and tell us which ones if any have sound. Note that only one side of the headphones may have sound and it may be low volume. We need to know if anything is coming fromt he preamp. Makesure the output switch is set to one of the speaker on positions and not just phones.

Key things to check.
1. Make sure you have a good power and ground. Make sure you have a large enough power cable(4 gauge is a good start). The ground should always be attached to bare metal(remove paint from contact area).

2. Ensure your amps crossover is set to low pass and at about 80hz. Turn any bass boost off, and start with low gain.

3.Your enclosure should be 1.25 cu sealed, or 1.75cu ported. If you are too far off these numbers it can cause distortion and clipping.

4. For the single woofer your best amp solution would be a 300 RMS 2ch bridged to 4 OHMs. As long as you're running the sub at 4OHMs you shouldn't have a problem. Under-powering can be worse than overpowering.

5.If your head unit has high and low pass crossovers, set your low pass at 80hz as well. If the head unit doesn't have crossovers, then turn your EQ to flat.

If none of this helps, it could just be the amp.
Hopefully it helps, Plz Vote & Rate

Hello e_cody_e,

The settings you have will not break anything and may sound OK.

But they may not be optimum for getting the best bass from your system. The SubSonic setting filters out frequencies below the threshold of hearing allowing the amp to put more power into the frequencies that can be heard. So, it should be set to about the same frequency that your enclosure is tuned for or just a little lower. If your enclosure is tuned for 35Hz, then the subsonic should be close to maximum.

Similarily, the low pass sends all frequencies below the setting to the subs, (other than those blocked by the subsonic filter) and is commonly referred to as the "crossover" frequency. Typical crossover frequencies for subwoofers are 60Hz, 80Hz and 100Hz. For a ported enclosure, lower is probably better.

The phase shift should be set to the position that best synchronizes the bass with the music. Because of the additional wiring required for the subs, the signal to them is sometimes slightly delayed causing the bass to be "out-of-sync" with the rest of the music. The thump of the bass comes just a little sooner or later than expected. If the bass sounds out of phase, turn the phase shift on, otherwise leave it off.

The "gain" or level control allows you to match the amps input to your head units subwoofer output. The best setting is usually as high as possible without distortion. Set it by turning up the head unit volume to about 3/4 maximum and then advance the amp gain until your subs just begin to distort. Then back it off slightly.

These settings should allow your amp to put the most power into the frequencies that your subwoofers are designed for and hence produce the loudest and lowest bass.

Hope this helps.

Check your ground wire and put your setting on your amp to low HP LP FULL also check the radio wires

Cavity
1 20 amp yellow hazard flashers
2 10 amp red heated mirrors
3 20 amp yellow body lights
4 not used
5 20 amp yellow windshield wipers
6 20 amp yellow turn signal lights
7 10 amp red radio
8 not used
9 7.5 amp violet illumination lights
10 2 amp pink left tail lights
11 2 amp right tail lights
12 not used
13 20 amp yellow rear window wiper/washer
14 2 amp pink speed control
15 10 amp red gauges, warning lights
16 not used
17 10 amp red left low beam headlight
18 10 amp red right low beam headlight
19 20 amp yellow stop lights
20 20 amp yellow rear a/c heat
21 20 amp yellow fog lights
22 20 amp yellow park lights
23 20 amp yellow battery
24 20 amp yellow back up lights
25 circuit breaker power windows,power vent windows
26 30 amp lt. green a/c heater blower motor
27 circuit breaker power door locks
28 not used

I just fixed my bass amp with a similar problem last week: the problem is related to a loose connection on the PCB board (likely).
A bass amp is a rough place for circuitry: the low rumble and power shake a bass amp more than a guitar amp.
In my case, the power transistors needed to be re-soldered and then the grounding bolts and screws needed to be removed and cleaned because the connection was bad. Remember that when two different metals needed for an electric connection are toughing, there is the likelyhood that corrosion WILL happen.
My bass amp did basically the same thing yours did: sounded good at low volumes, but at higher volumes it would act up.
In short, there is nothing you can do (unless you are a repair person): you need to take it to a local music shop and have a tech fix the intermittant contact problem: someone who knows what they are doing should only take an hour at most.

Hope that helps!
-mike

if the headphones you are trying to use are mono and over 8w then yes. you need a headphone pre amp. id ensure the power supply is all the way in and that it is set to default settings to ensure you didnt trip any of the equalizing or bridge features for the headphones


thanks,
Nate

what sort of amp are you driving these with?
is the amp set up with buit in x-overs?
check these settings?
Boxs should be configured already for full range from manufacture unless they have been altered since purchase,

Whats really funny is that your getting either tops or bottoms from them but not both at the same time......hmmmm
they are supposed to be full range cabinets,very good ones at that.
I suspect the amp is either faulty or x-overs are poked.
some times leads are a also the blame too.poor connections,etc.
if x-over is poked you will hear an ear peircing noise and a paper duding noise if the cones were gone,like a giant transistor radio with no bass and a very high pitched trebble burning a hole in your head,

Ok heres a cheap test,

Take the speakers to another amp and test them,
If same result then you know the answer

Let me know the results thanks

You need to conform that you have a good ground and 12v on the remote & B+ terminals.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

.