Inlet/drain light on. i know it drains OK because if i pour water into bottom and close door and turn on i can hear it draining water out. it wont fill. i have cleaned everything and taken base off and cleaned and checked float and all ok. i have tried every combination of holding buttons down and trying to reset but machine just makes low humming noise and after about 5 seconds the red light comes on again.

It is most likely that the defrost drain is blocked in the freezer causing the water to drain through the air vents. You will most likely have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and pour hot water in the drain trough until the drain clears up and the water drains down the drain tube.

Your pump motor has siezed, it can be removed then spray some penetrating oil abd rotate by hand until the fan spins free and reassemble. Be sure to turn breaker for your dishwasher

It's almost certainly the float switch in the bottom of the machine. In the bottom is a polystyrene 'float' that is either active due to water in the bottom or is faulty. Tip your machine to the side and remove water and try again, bridge or replace switch is also an option

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with your dishwasher not drainingproblem...

Dishwasher Problems - Waterwill not drain out

heatman101

F3 indicates a problem with the drain pump. At the bottom left of the machine, theres a square cut-out. This is where the drain pump is located. Using a flat head screwdriver or similar object, insert in opening on right side and gently pry open the drain pump cover.
Once the cover has been opened, be careful when opening the drain pump, as there is always a little water left in the drain pump. Before you open the drain pump, place a small container on the floor below the drain to catch the water. Pull the small black hose from the door and let the water drain into the container. You can now open the drain pump to clean it out. Also clean the pump rotor at the back of the pump housing. Replace the drain cover and reconnect the drain hose securely back to its position on the door. Close the cover.

F4 indicates a problem with the water inlet valve. Make sure the water supply is fully turned on. If no water enters the machine, then turn water supply off. Disconnect the hoses from the water inlet valve to see if the strainer in the inlet connection is blocked. Reconnect the hoses and turn on water supply. Hopefully this solves your problem.

Hi there,

Well first of all you can check the Water-inlet valve
Most cleaning problems are caused by the dishwasher not getting enough wash water, so the water-inlet valve is often to blame. This valve is usually at the bottom left or right of the dishwasher, behind the lower access panel. It's the device with the main water line from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it. When a water-inlet valve is defective, you may hear the sound that's usually referred to as "water hammer." If the water-inlet valve is defective, you need replace it.
After then you can check the Drain valve,  that should open only during draining. If debris lodges in the valve, it can't close properly, so water drains out during the wash cycle. Most dishwashers drain into the garbage disposer. If yours does that, listen for water flowing into the disposer during the wash cycle. If you can hear it then, the drain valve may be clogged.
Please post comments if you need more help or information..............

Good Luck!!

Thanks

Depending on your model number, Maytag dishwashers on one model have combined drain pump & spray arm pumb. On other Maytag units these pumps are stand alone pumps. Check to make sure that:
1: drain hose to drain pipe(disposal) is open and flows well, do this by disconnecting the hose from disposal end and lay flat (in a pan) on floor and see if water comes out, if it does hose is clear of gunk.
2: Check garbage disposal inlet tube where drain hose connects, if your recently installed disposal then you may have forgot to remove plastic plug,
3: Turn spray arms by hand and make sure they spin freely,
4: make sure that when you close the door it latches and you can hear the pump running.

If all the above are ok, then you have a drain/motor gone down and will need to replace it. Give us a model number and we can advise better where else to look.

I had a similar issue after I replaced a bad drain pump, seems the logic got hung up.. I poured in a pitcher of water, closed the door, it drained and was then ok - worth a try. If not, you may have a bad water level switch.

ok start the washer after it fills and starts washing open the door again and turn the dial to drain shut the door see if it drains if it does then open the door and turn it to heated dry shut the door and get you a small glass of warm water let it sit in heated dry for about 3 minutes open the door and pour the water on the heating element and let me know if it sizzles

Teach, usually all leaks are visable. Have your husband remove the lower panel by removing the 3 #11 torxs on the bottom panel and pull down and off. Now you can see the tub drain hose and filter. First check the dispensor drawer. Remove it and check to see if you have anything blocking the inlet tube to the tub. Sometimes a seal from a fab or detergent cap blocks the entrance. When the disp. is out just reach in with a finger in front and you will feel the inlet grate. Next inspect the boot. Make sure there are no cuts or rips. Once you feel that this checks out ok, replace the disp. drawer and put the machine in the test cycle. On the left side press drain/spin. On the right side press spin speed until No spin is lit. Then press the prewash button 4 times until C:00 is displayed. Now let it do it's thing. It will fill, rotate, drain and spin. It will end with C:08 in the display. With the bottom panel off during the test, see if you can find the source of the leak. You can push cancel/drain anytime to stop the test. Catriver.