Amp not working

If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Faults & possible causes to LCD & Plasma screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent.

Check to see if it works with headphones. If it doesn't then you might have a main power amp failure.

first thing check all ground and power wires and make sure ur rca wire make sure it isnt cut in anyway. after that unplug ur sub and unplug the negative wire from ur amp, while its out check the fuses on the amp if all is well put all fuses back if not get new. then plug the negative wire back in if protect goes off check for heat and if no heat inspect the wires from speaker out put all the way to the sub, look for any wire touching another this is were most problems are even the smallest wire can trip a protect. if u still cant find the problem. an amplifier specialist is in order.if its trashed go on ebay and buy a powerbass there goin cheap right now. hope i could help

you have your sub wired incorrectly. your amp shouldn't get hot unless you're settings are too high or your'e sending too small of an ohm load to the amp. this would cause it to heat up and will fry your amp.

replace fuse or relay to the park lights .

For the visonik, you should check your speakers. You can use a D-cell battery. Remove the speaker wires from the amp and connect each speaker across the battery (for no longer than a few seconds). The speaker should pop each time the wires are touched to the battery. If they don't, the speaker is defective (assuming the battery isn't dead).

If the speakers are OK, you need to confirm that you have a good signal feeding the amp. You can use the RCA cables from another working amp in the vehicle. Do this with the amp that had the power light lit.

If you have signal going to the amp and the speakers are OK, the only two things left are the power supply feeding the amp (from the battery) and the amp. If you have B+ and remote voltage AND a good ground, the amp is defective.







For the pyramid, the amplifier probably has shorted output transistors. The amplifier will have to be repaired.

What kind of car? What kind of system? More details will help me assist you better. If it is an aftermarket in-dash stereo, it sounds like the blue/white wire is not hooked up correctly. This powers up the car's amplifier and lets the sound through.

Either you will have to see a repair tech or get your money back. Sorry about the bad news. If you have a blown output (which is what you probably have) then it is more of a problem than a regular consumer should attempt to repair. Sorry.

If one amp works inthe same place same wiring same hookup, and the other one dosent, It got to be a bad amp or the way its being hooked up. Make sure the standby is hooked up properly. Get the wiring diagram for instalation for both amps and look at them side by side. If the dead amp is supose to work then Im sure by comparing hookup your gonna say "AAAWWWWW I See Now!!" Good Luck

It sounds like your saying that you have two identical amp, that both are on the same power wires and remote wires and sam grounds? Well if thats the case then you did ok as One amp sounds like its blown. First tghing is check the main fuse. If its good and the unit still dosent resond then the power supply in the amp is blown as theres a switching supply that increases the 12 volts to get power to drive the Mosfet output devices. Was it ever working?? yes then the amp needs service. Do you know how to work on solid state elctronics down to componet level?? No?? Ok contact these folks at the addy im posting for you or take the amp to your local servicer. Good Luck. [email protected]