My infinity overture 3 crossover does not work anymore (both sides of the crossover do not have any output. If I bypass it the speakers do work (obviously without the filtering) My question is how do I find out what part of the crossover needs to be repaired. Also since this speaker was made in the 90's it is extremely hard to find a replacement so i was wondering what options are there online to find or replace it. I have the part number and found the schematic for it as well. Thanks, John Ryan

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to category.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/bypassing-infinity-amps-and-stereo-upgrade.2551313/

..

Possible shorted speaker wiring or a shorted voice coil in one of the speakers.

follow this instructions and fix it. God bless you
Instructions

1. • 1
     Plug one end of a shielded input cable into the mixer's main output, and the other end into the crossover's input. The cable connectors will be dictated by your particular mixer and crossover, and will be either standard 1/4" or 3-pin XLR connectors. Consult the owner's manual of all components for specific details and recommendations.
     
     
   • 2
     Plug another shielded input cable into the crossover "high" frequency output, and the other into the crossover's "low" frequency output.
     
     
   • 3
     Plug the cable coming from the crossover "high" output into the channel one input on the stereo power amp, and the cable from the crossover "low" output into the channel two input of the power amplifier.
     
     
   • 4
     Plug one end of the unshielded speaker cable into the power amp channel one speaker output, and the other end into the horn tweeter.
     
     
   • 5
     Plug one end of the second unshielded speaker cable into the power amp channel two speaker output, and the other end into the woofer. The connections are now complete.
     
     

• If it were me i would go with this. http://www.apexjr.com/inf.html $60usd not a bad deal and it looks like they throw a crossover in with it. It is actually the amp meant for your speakers.

Regards, Tony

thers a guy on ebay parting out these speakers.im bying the parts fromhim. wish me luck.

Either one of the drivers (woofer, midrange, tweeter) has a short in it, or there's short in the crossover network. The drivers all need to be taken out and the DCR checked; they should be between 3.5 to 4 ohms.. if those all check OK there is a shorted part in the crossover network.

Verify that the bass levels are set the same on each speaker. If they are and the problem occurs on all program material, you most likely have a bad driver or amplifier in the speaker. One other thing to verify is that the balance or output levels of the left and right main speaker outputs are set equally on the receiver.

Good Luck,
BB

You need to measure across the speakers themselves n ot the crossover (cap). If these are 8 ohm speakers, an ohm meter will read about 6 or so. That is because both impedence and resistance use the same measurement. With an ohm meter you are measuring resistance. The speakers are rated using impedence.

If both speakers are open (measure infinity), I would suspect a problem with the stereo that caused them to go open. With the stereo on and playing something (radio,cd , or whatever) use a DC voltmeter to measure between the speaker terminals (Red/Black). You should read essentially 0 no matter what the volume. If you read any DC more than 3/4 V, the problem is with the amp section of the stereo.

Dan

The easiest thing to test is to try swapping the connections of the front component speakers at the amp connections. If the problem follows the speakers, the issue is probably with the speakers. I would triple check (again) the speaker wire connections. It's also possible the crossover for the driver side component speakers has an issue (thus why the tweeter worked for a while).

If the problem stays on the drivers side, the issue is probably with that channel on the amp. Triple check the RCA connections for that channel.

It's much easier to test other speakers on an amp channel versus trying to check it with a meter.

If the driver's door is "abused" often, my initial thought is the wiring at the speaker or the wiring in the speaker (to voice coil, within the crossover, etc) is the most likely culprit.

I'm purchasing 2 infinity 3-way passive crossovers on eBay with the same crossover freqs as my two overture 3's with blown amps. For 19.99 each, it's worth a try. Good luck to you!