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Hi - I have the samsung 46"LCD 550. I have the problem I'm hearing about with the turning on and off repeatedly by itself and then eventually it going to a loud screeching noise. The TV then has to be unplugged. I have heard that some people are doing some kind of software fix through the usb port for this problem. Any ideas?

Posted by ron manuel on

  • 22 more comments 
  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    Hi. It's LN46A550P3F.
    Now it will just click on then off - never giving me a picture. Before when the problem arose - it would click on and off repeatedly and then eventually give me some pixly digital lines - then a green screen - then it would give out the most horrible loud screech until I unplugged it. Samsung did send a guy last fall for what they call a one-time out of warranty replacement of the capacitor - since they did not want to do a recall. It worked after that for a while. I don't know if it's the capicator again.

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    sorry it took so long - I didn't have the back off the computer. I have the back off now.

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    Hi what should I do. The back is now off the computer

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    hi what should i do?

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    Hi - there is no evidence of any faulty capacitors. I'm quite confident that the Samsung capacitor issue wasn't the problem the first time either as the repairman said that he replaced all capacitators good or bad for these models of tvs when instructed to do so by Samsung. What's next?

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    The noise was coming from the speakers. In the proecess of checking some things, I was able to determine that the problem is in some way connected to the Rogers Cable HD Receiver. When I switched to another receiver, the TV did not click on and off - but instead brought in a picture. When I switched things back to the original receiver, as soon as I made connection with the component cable, the shreeking started. The same type of connection using the same wires with the other receiver did not do it. It sounds like the problem may be solved - all I have to do is replace my receiver with Rogers, however there are two things that we must consider: 1) someone else online indicated that they had the same issue and the fix was only temporary after replacing to a new receiver. Soon after the problem came back,and 2) when I first started trouble shooting today, I had nothing connected to the TV and I was just trying to turn it on when it went into its repeatedly clicking on and off phase - even without anything connected to it but the power supply. My next step I feel is to swap the receiver to at least eliminate that variable. Do you have any thoughts on this? Can we please still consider this issue open until I change that variable and check it out (i.e. we can follow up later on this same issue without me having to put in a new case)?

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    you're a good man - thanks. I'll follow up later

  • ron manuel Feb 11, 2011

    Hi
    I replaced the receiver. Attached the new one. It started off ok but within a minute it turned to a green computer like screen. Then it started the turning off then on - repeating cycle - with once or twice going to the screech that is coming out of the speakers. It's obviously the TV. Need help

  • ron manuel Feb 12, 2011

    I will need to take the back off the TV again - I'll get back to you later today. Sorry there is so much of a break in between responding, we have an infant at home and she takes a lot of my time. So - you think I need a new A/V board - is this something that is going to be expensive? Once I get that part number for you, what is the plan?

  • ron manuel Feb 13, 2011

    Hi

    I have the back of the TV again. The A/V board - is that the same as what people call the motherboard? Is it the one that is green and has the component, VGA and HDMI slots for the connecting wires? If so, where do I look to find the part number? How confident are you that it is the problem? Is this a problem you have encountered before with similar characteristics?

  • ron manuel Feb 13, 2011

    Hi. Online there seems to be a ton of people with the same issue on the same TV. So many are talking about the clicking on and off. Have you encountered this before? If so, is this the fix for the problem? No one online has indicated that replacing the A/V board or doing anything else is a fix to this problem. Is spending money on the A/V board the thing to do?

  • ron manuel Feb 13, 2011

    Don't get me wrong - I guess I'm just feeling like a person in the hospital who wants to hear the doctor say "Don't worry, I have seen this case before - I know what the problem is and this is the solution."

    With so many people contacting Samsung and complaining about the same issue, I was hoping that you would be able to tell me that prior to my case, you have had the opportunity to deal with other Samsung LCD TV's that had this clicking on and off problem and that you are confident about this course of action (replacing the A/V board) being the best course of action.

    With my new baby at home and lots of expenses, I just want to make sure I'm doing the best thing - that's al. If this TV had no fix - or will need more things replaced besides the A/V board that will cost money - I have to make a decision; however, a $125 or so part replacement is manageable for sure if it is a fix. Sorry for my rant.
    The green A/V board says that the model is PEARL and the code is BN41 - 00975B with the date(2008 - 01 - 13). There is a sticker on the part where the coaxial cable input would come in that has a different number BN94 - 01723T. The full model number for my TV is LN46A550P3FXZC.

    I can't find any LN numbers on the green A/V board though.

  • ron manuel Feb 13, 2011

    Is this the part?
    http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn94-01...

    the numbers seem to line up with everything I've found.

    Do you have access to these parts? The one on this website looks like they are taken out of old TVs and aren't new parts

  • ron manuel Feb 13, 2011

    Ok - I have ordered the part from that website.
    What are the chances that thisreplacement A/V circuit board is not or will not malfunction just like my current one and all the ones that people online had malfunction? What causes these circuits to malfunction - is it power surges, or something?

  • ron manuel Feb 13, 2011

    ok - when I look at how the A/V board is connected, it looks like something I will be able to do myself - yes? It will probably be about a week for me to get the new board to my location(I have to ship it to Maine and then get it accross the border to my city)
    . I'll send you a reply when I'm ready to perform the replacement. Thanks

  • ron manuel Feb 17, 2011

    hi - me again. I'm disappointed! ShopJimmy sent me an email telling me that the A/V board that I bought from them is out of stock - with no waiting list to be on. Here is the itemhttp://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-bn94-01...

    I haven't been able to find one on line - do you have any suggestions? Thanks

  • ron manuel Feb 17, 2011

    Thanks. I've ordered it through the site you've indicated. Hopefully they are not out of stock.

  • ron manuel Mar 20, 2011

    Hi - Long time- no talk. Hope you are well. I finally have received the A/V motherboard replacement part for my Samsung LCD. What do I need to know to replace it? It looks like I just need to remember where things plug in on the old board and just do the same to the new board after I attach it in place with the little screws. Is this correct? If so, is there anything I should be careful of as I do so or before I try to plug it in an see if it works.? Waiting for your instruction before I proceed. Thanks

  • ron manuel Mar 23, 2011

    Hi. Ok - I've picked up an Anti-Static Wrist strap from the Source(Circuit City). There are no directions on how to use it. There is an alligator clip connector at the end of a wire coming from it. How do I use it?

  • ron manuel Mar 23, 2011

    So I assume the wire from the wrist strap takes the ESD from my body. The alligator clip at the end of the wire should be attached to something metal that acts as a ground. I assume that the metal ovject that I choose to clip the wrist strap to should not be something on the TV. Correct? Then I start disconnecting the old mother board and reconnect the new one?

  • ron manuel Mar 23, 2011

    http://www.thesource.ca/estore/product.a...'s&product=2762397

    Here is the anti-static wrist strap from the Source

  • ron manuel Mar 28, 2011

    Hi, I had sent you a link to the type of antistatic wrist strap that I purchased from The Source so you could recommend as to where I attach the alligator clamp. Could you let me know when you get a chance, please.
    Thanks

  • ron manuel Mar 28, 2011

    ok - great. And then when I start - I'll be disconnecting all theinternal hookups to the current A/V board - then unscrewing the board itself - screwing in the new board - then reconnecting the hookups? Correct?

    Then should I provide power to the TV but wait a bit before turning it on?

    Anything else I should know before the"operation" begins?

  • ron manuel Apr 08, 2011

    Hi. I did everything you said and then replaced the A/V board. When I plugged the TV in I was originally discouraged to see the TV immediately turn itself on automatically - I thought that was a sign that it was going to have the same problem ( would it turn itself on when power is returned?). However, it worked and I left it on for a while - nor problems - nad I have turned it on and off a couple of times over the last three days and sof -far, so- good - it seems to have worked! You were fairly confident that it was the A/V board, eh?

    So - assuming this has been the fix - should I be using this Anti-Static wrist strap everytime I might have to unplug or plug in a connector cable(such as composite, RCA, or HDMI) into the back of the TV?

    I have the TV plugged into a brand new - updated surge protector . Could a tripped circuit or power surge have caused the A/V board to fry? I'm just trying to determine how best to keep this from happening in the future.

    Is there a chance that the original A/V board was faulty and prone to malfunction - which is why so many people are having problems with the same tv? Do you think this new A/V board that I received - though the identical part - may be an updated part in which Samsung has fixed the defect?

    I know I have asked you a lot of questions but your thoughts I value. I just want to pick your brain before we are done with this case.

    Thanks

    Ron

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eagle338

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Can you get me the the complete model number like 46LNA550? It can be found on the label at the back of the tv. It can be the firmware or it can even be the inverter, but lets begin with the firmware

Posted on Feb 11, 2011

  • 18 more comments 
  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 11, 2011

    Lets find out. Take off the back cover and look for a large board connected to the inputs. See if you can find capacitors that look like this.
    http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/8481/ca...

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 11, 2011

    See my last post. The link I have posted is the image of what faulty capacitors look like. See if you can find any of them on the main audio/video board

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 11, 2011

    See if the noise is coming from the speakers. That will confirm if its a mainboard problem

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 11, 2011

    Yes you can get back to me if the problem re-appears after replacing the receiver. We won't close this thread or something. It will be open forever!

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 11, 2011

    You are welcome :)

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 12, 2011

    Very well then. We need to replace the main A/V board. Please get me the part number off the large board at the center with all the inputs

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 12, 2011

    Its ok don't worry about it take your time. The board costs about 125$. Once you get me the part number. we will order the board and replace it

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 13, 2011

    Yes thats the board. Look for numbers starting with BN94 and LN42. They are the part and board numbers and I need both of them

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 13, 2011

    Yes it is. What else did they suggest? Anyway its your choice choosing between following a tech's advice who works on tvs to make a living or some anonymous forum user.

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 13, 2011

    Yes I have seenthis problem before. The problem is due to malfunctining Audio/video circuits. The protection circuitry will kick in shut down the set to prevent damage. That is why it turns on and off repeatedly. THat is why I was very confident that this is the problem. ANd yes thats the part. Thats a good deal you got there. A 90$ fix is not bad at all!

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 13, 2011

    Parts from shopjimmy are usually tested and should work just fine. I have had only rare cases where the customers reported that they received a malfunctioning part. What causes these circuits to go bad can be due to a variety of reasons but most commonly due to faulty electrolytic capacitors or surface mount ones causing the processing circuits to go bad

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 13, 2011

    Surething. I will be there to guide you. In the meanwhile obtain an ESD wrist strap. It will ensure that you won't damage the boards with static discharge that is stored in the human body.

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 17, 2011

    Try this then
    http://www.encompassparts.com/products/?...
    Its more expensive from other stores though. Bad luck!

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Feb 17, 2011

    Yeah. I hope so!

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Mar 20, 2011

    First thing you should be careful about is the static discharge. The Electro Static Discharge that is present in human body can fry the components on the board in no time. So before you touch it with bare hands make sure that you wear an ESD wrist strap. Secondly be sure not to touch the capacitors. These components hold residual voltages that can deliver a nasty electric shock if you are not careful

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Mar 23, 2011

    Do you see anything like a buckle? Coz I have only used buckle type wrist straps. I will tell you how it works though. The metal on the wrist strap is supposed to drain the ESD from your wrist by acting as a ground.

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Mar 23, 2011

    Please get me an image of the strap and I will tell you which one goes where that will be the easiest way to deal with this

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Mar 28, 2011

    Oh. That one! You should just attach that to a grounded metal. Wear it for a few seconds then remove it and proceed to work. It is not recommended to wear it the whole time as it increases the risk of electric shock. And sorry for the delayed response. I must have missed your comment somehow

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Mar 28, 2011

    Yes. That should be it. Only one thing to be careful about. Avoid touching the capacitors if you have not left the set unplugged for a while. The residual voltages on the mainboard even though not lethal can deliver a nasty shock if touched while grounded. Wear some kind of tennis shoes if you have them. If you have left the set unplugged you can just go ahead with unplugging the cables without worrying about any of the above factors.

  • eagle338
    eagle338 Apr 08, 2011

    Glad to hear that. And yes it is fixed, don't worry about that. As for the Wrist strap no that's only required if you are working with the boards inside the tv. Actually it was not the update that fixed it, but the board itself. One of the reasons why I would steer clear of Samsung products. Sony is OK and LG has always served me very well. My 55" Scarlett that I have purchased for my studio has been working really good for over 6 years now and most of my customers tell me that LG has been the best when it comes to auvio/video equipment.

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