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When I turn the heat up on my thermostat, the gas turns on, ignites, blower kicks in, everything is running fine. After about 10 minutes, the whole thing shuts off, never having reached the desired temperature. The heater will never turn back on unless I turn the thermostat off and then back on. Then is cycles again as described above.

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Rich Landrum

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Sounds as if the overload switch is turning it off, either because the burner chamber is overheating or the overload switch needs to be replaced. When you turn it off and then back on, the switch resets itself.

Posted on Feb 10, 2011

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I have a coleman furnace model 4066A656


Make sure your air filter is clean. Is the thermostat satisfied? or is the room temp. still below the thermostat setting? When ever you have to turn the power off and then back on to a furnace that usually indicates that the furnaces ignition control locked out. The first thing that I would try is cleaning the flame rod.

Mar 02, 2017 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

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Heil nulk075dg05


You have a dirty or bad heat sensor. When you remove the front panel on you furnace you will see a probe that is 2 or 3 inches long that is in the flame when the furnace fires up. If it doesn't detect a certain temperature within the first 30 or 40 seconds it shuts down the furnace. You can either clean the probe off with sandpaper, or purchase a new one. They aren't very expensive and are easy to replace. In my experience it is usually a build up of carbon on the sensor and a good cleaning with sandpaper and alcohol usually takes care of the problem.

Feb 04, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

When i turn the heat up sometimes it takes a long time for the gas furnace to start ..why?


Watch your furnace when you turn the thermostat up...make sure to record everything that it is doing. If you have an induced draft, forced air system, then the heat sequence of order should go like this... Initial call for heat from tstat, Inducer vent motor turns on-pulls in the pressure switch, circuit board sends power to igniter whether it is spark or hot surface, then gas valve opens. Flame sensor senses flame, burner stays on, and blower motor kicks in to heat the space. If you notice any variance from this, then something needs to be checked by an HVAC Service Tech.

Dec 14, 2013 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

1 Answer

Replaced Thermostat and now Blower Motor will not run


Sounds like a set up issue on the tstat. You say this is a packaged unit, inside the machine you should find where the tstat wires hook up. Typically red is power yellow is compressor orange is reversing valve white is emergency heat green is blower. Put red and green together, test blower. Then red green and yellow, make sure blower works again. If blower runs both ways it's either the tstat wire or tstat itself. Make sure you are landing wires on dedicated heat pump terminals, make sure in settings you are set up for heat pump with back up electric heat and TSTAT CONTROLS THE FAN. Good Luck. Also if there is a switch on the tstat for gas or electric on the back you want electric.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

May 12, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Pilot lights up but would not fire up into heating, I have brivis buffalo 85


This is the proper cycle of a furnace and what should happen.

Inducer motor kicks on, it runs for a little bit, about 3-5 seconds, then you should see a bright yellow glow, this is the igniter, shortly after, you should hear a click and the gas should start to flow, almost immediately it turns to a blue flame. Then your igniter should turn off and the blower motor start up.

If the pilot turns on and the gas ignites, then shortly after the unit shuts off, chances are this is your blower motor. It is not starting up, then the heat limit is reached in your unit and the safety shuts it off.

Mar 02, 2011 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

1 Answer

Frigidaire crown gas dryer runs fine but after about 10 minutes it turns itself off and i cant turn it back on for about an hour


From the description you give the most likely cause of this problem are bad gas coils or a bad gas valve.

You say you see the flames for 10 minutes before it stops heating but you don't mention if the igniter is continuing to glow. One thing we need to know is if the igniter continues to cycle on and off when the dryer stops heating.

There is a small square plug on the front panel you can remove to try and visually check if the igniter is glowing.

The problem won't be the thermal fuse or one of the thermostats. Once the fuse is open the dryer won't heat but it won't start to heat after 20 minutes.

After the dryer runs ten minutes and stops heating then check if the igniter is still cycling on and off. This is important because if the igniter is working then the thermostats and igniter are okay.

When the igniter glows at some point you might hear a click and the igniter would stop glowing. The click is from the flame sensor and after the click and the voltage is removed from the igniter at the same instant the voltage is applied to the gas coils and you should get a flame.

You might hear a hum, buzz or vibration from the coils when this happens. If the coils seem to react to the voltage but there is no flame then most likely the gas valve is bad. If the coils don't do anything then most likely the coils are the problem. The gas valve and gas coils can work for 10-15 minutes and then heat up and stop working till everything cools down.

One other thing I must tell you about the gas coils. Here is a link to the gas coils you will need. These are the new style that will last quite a bit longer the the older one. The coils are like the spark plugs in your car. The will need replacing in time due to wear. Below is a video to walk you thru the repair process.


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Jan 09, 2011 | Frigidaire GLGR642A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Just replaced idnitor and flame sensor on a bryant model 376c and its still not kicking on. blower kicks on fans kick on and then cycles off. no heat need help


Make sure all wires are connected and the gas is on. Follow the sequence of operation for this model and a few tips on what could be the issue.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 27, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace not kicking on when thermostat calls for heat


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Turn heat on, I hear it ignite and furnace runs and runs fine then usually there is a slight delay and blower turns on and blows heat, but now it does not, I put my hand up to a nearby vent to no heat and...


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Jan 06, 2010 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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