Do I pack fine china plates standing on end or flat in box??

Hi, Yes you can install your own clutch and it is not that difficult.
Do's:
1. Make sure you have all the new parts ( plates,springs, bolts ect) before you disassemble the old one and take all of the plates off in order or as a whole pack.
2. Be sure to buy a new gasket and thoroughly remove the old one
3. Make sure all of the plates are facing the right direction
Don't:
1. Don't over torque the spring bolts use an inch-pound wrench rather than a foot-pound wrench
2. Don't nick or scrape the cover gasket plates and make sure both surfaces are clean with a new gasket....item most likely to cause problems due to leaking.
3. Don't forget to drain the oil if you are on a lift or center stand ( good idea to drain it and change the filter anyway with all new clutch parts.)
Other than the torque wrench no special tools required, Use a good quality socket or box end wrench to remove old bolts so nothing gets rounded. Good Luck!

mine has 4 silver screws running perpendicular to the stand shafts, remove the 2 pairs and the stand should slide out the bottom.

There are four horizontal phillips screws (two at the end of the base plate directly above it and two a couple of inches above them) that are a slightly bigger diameter. Remove them completely and base plate slides right out.

HI! FIRST OF ALL MAKE SURE ALL UR TOOLS R IN GOOD SAFE WORKING CONDITION,ESPECIALLY UR JACK & STANDS, ( CHECK LOAD RATINGS OF JACK & STANDS)OTHERWISE U COULD END UP DEAD OR WITH VERY SERIOUS BODY INJURIES. PARK THE VEHICLE ON A HARD FLAT LEVEL SURFACE ,DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST TERMINAL. JACK UP THE VEHICLE TO DESIRED COMFORTABLE HEIGHT ALLOW EASY ACCESS TO VEHICLE UNDER CARRAGE, FRONT UP ,THEN PLACE 2 STANDS, THEN JACK UP THE REAR END ,PLACE 2 STANDS & PUT 4 STANDS UNDER THE VEHCILE, PREF SUB FRAME & OR CHASI RAIL NEAR EACH WHEEL OF THE VEHICLE ,THEN LET THE JACK DOWN SO THE VEHICLE IS RESTING ON ALL 4 STANDS,MAKE SURE THE HAND BRAKE IS OFF & THE VEHICLE IN NEUTRAL GEAR. U WILL NEED A CREEPER WITH CASTOR WHEELS ON IT TO ALLOW MOBILITY WHILST WORKING UNDER THE VEHICLE TO LAY ON .IF U CAN GET SOMEONE TO HELP U GREAT , THE MORE PEOPLE THATS EVEN BETTER AS GEAR BOXES/TRANSFER CASES R BLOODY VERY HEAVY. U WILL NEED TO DISCONNECT THE GEAR LINKAGES FROM THE GEAR BOX, SOME VEHICLES U CAN DO THAT FROM UNDERNEITH,OTHER VEHICLES U MAY HAVE TO REMOVE THE CENTRE CONSOLE IN THE CABIN TO ACCESS THE GEAR STICK BASE PLATE BOLTS, LOOSEN/REMOVE BOLTS & GEAR STICK, IF THERE IS ANOTHER GEAR STICK THERE FOR THE 4WD SELECTION DO THE SAME FOR THAT AS WELL.REMOVE THE FRONT & REAR DRIVE SHAFTS(PROP SHAFTS) , IF U DONT HAVE PLASTIC BUNGS TO SLIDE INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE WHERE THE SHAFTS CAME OUT, DRAIN BOTH THE GEAR BOX & TRANSFER CASE OILS OTHERWISE U WILL BE COVERED IN OIL WHEN REMOVING THE GEARBOX/TRANSFER CASE. THERE WILL BE A DRAIN PLUG IN THE BOTTOM OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE. DISCONNECT & WIRING TO GEAR BOX/TRANSFER CASE & STARTER MOTOR TO ALLOW REMOVAL WITHOUT BREAKING ANY WIRES. PLACE A JACK UNDER THE END OF THE BOX TO SUPPORT IT, THEN REMOVE THE REAR SUPPORT MOUNT. LOWER THE JACK SLIGHTLY TO ALLOW EASY ACCESS/REMOVAL OF ALL BELL HOUSING BOLTS INCLUDING THE 2 STARTER MOTOR BOLTS. IF U DONT HAVE AIR TOOLS U MAY FIND THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS VERY HARD TO UNDO BY HAND, MAKE SURE THAT U HAVE A BREAKER BAR & LONG EXTENTSION,USE HALF INCH DRIVE SOCKETS,EXTENTSIONS ETC...WHEN THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS R REMOVED .IF U HAVE A GEAR BOX REMOVAL JACK THAT WOULD BE GREAT, IF U DONT ITS QUITE DANGEROUS, U WILL NEED ANOTHER JACK PLACED UNDER THE MID SECTION OF THE BOX, ITS LONG & HEAVY, U WILL HAVE TO "BALANCE THE WHOLE BOX", BE BLOODY CAREFUL THE BOX DOES NOT ROLL OVER ON TOP OF U OTHERWISE U WILL END UP WITH SERIOUS INJURY. IF THE BOX ROLLS OVER DONT TRY & STOP IT ,JUST GET OF THE WAY REAL FAST & WORRY ABOUT THE REST LATER & LONG AS U R SAFE.ONCE THE BOX IS REMOVED, UNDO ALL THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE ONTO THE FLY WHEEL. REMOVE THE PRESSURE PLATE & CLUTCH PLATE , U WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE FLY WHEEL BOLTS TOO , WHICH WILL BE VERY HARD WITHOUT A PROPER COMPRESSOR & AIR TOOLS AS THEY R ALL TIGHTENED IN THE FACTORY BY AIR TOOLS OR ROBOTICS.TAKE THE FLY WHEEL TO A MACHINE SHOP & GET IT RESURFACE GROUND TO REMOVE ALL THE HOT SPOTS,CRACKS & SURFACE DISTORTIONS/IRREGULARITIES, OTHERWISE U MAY END UP WITH CLUTCH SHUDDER ON TAKE OFF , THIS IS SOMETIMES CAUSED BY NOT MACHINING THE FLYWHEEL. REFIT THE FLY WHEEL ,LOCK TITE ALL THE BOLTS & RETIGHTEN TO CORRECT TORQUE SPECS, OR A QUICK BLAST WITH AN HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT GUN, NOT TOO MUCH OTHERWISE U MAY BREAK THE BOLTS.REFIT THE NEW CLUTCH & PRESSURE PLATE ,THE CLUTCH SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE PRESSURE PLATE & FLY WHEEL,SECURE THE PRESSURE PLATE TO THE FLY WHEEL,WITH ALL THE BOLTS, DONT TIGHTEN YET AS U HAVE TO CENTRALISE THE CLUTCH PLATE FIRST, FAILING TO DO THIS, U WILL NEVER GET THE BOX IN AGAIN.U HAVE TO USE A CLUTCH CENTRALISING TOOL ,READ THE INSTRUCTION WITH THE TOOL. ONCE THE CLUTCH PLATE IS CENTRAL U MAY GO AHEAD & TIGHTEN ALL THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS. 1ST NOTATION,# WHEN TIGHTENING FLY WHEEL & PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS,TIGHTEN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, THINK OF A CLOCK FACE, TIGHTEN 12 OCLOCK, THEN 6 OCLOCK, THEN 3 OCLOCK, THEN 9 OCLOCK ETC...TILL ALL BOLTS R TIGHT.2ND NOTATION# MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION THAT CONTAIN THE SPRINGS IN THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH PLATE RAISED SECTION FACE BACKWARDS TOWARDS TO PRESSURE PLATE OTHER WISE UR IN SERIOUS TROUBLE. REMOVE & REFIT THE NEW THROW OUT BEARING THAT COMES WITH THE NEW CLUTCH KIT, APPLY SOME HIGH TEMPERATURE WHEEL BEARING GREASE TO THE INPUT SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING SLIDES FORWARD & BACKWARDS ON THE GEARBOX.A QUICK NOTE, SOME THROW OUT BEARINGS, U HAVE TO REMOVE THE BEARING FROM THE SLIDE MOUNT & SOME THROWOUT BEARINGS COME COMPLETE WITH BEARING & MOUNT AS ONE PIECE.THE HARDEST PART OF THIS WHOLE OPERATION IS GETTING THE BOX TO SLIDE BACK INTO POSTION, IT IS VERY TRICKY, IF THE BOX IS NOT PERFECTLY LINED UP WITH THE MOTOR U WONT GET IT IN, U MAY HAVE TO JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR SO IT IS TILLED BACK IN ALIGHNMENT WITH THE BOX.ONCE ALL BACK TOGETHER, JUST RING UP MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT & ASK THEM WHAT TYPE OF OIL TO PUT INTO THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASE , WHICH CAN BE FILLED IN THE SIDE INPECTION PLUGS IN THE SIDE OF THE GEARBOX & TRANSFER CASES. MOST 4WDS GEARBOX & TRANSFER TAKE GL4 OR GL5 HYPOID OILS. GL4 = 75W/80 WEIGHT OIL & A GL5 = 80W/90 OIL WHICH IS A THICKER OIL. IN SOME VERY RARE INSTANCES SOME GEARBOXES TAKE ENGINE OIL OR A DEXTRON 3 OIL WHICH IS USED IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION.ALSO CHECK THE OWNERS MANUAL IF U HAVE IT, THEY CAN BE HELPFUL.GOOD LUCK & WORK SAFELY, REMEMBER THE BOX IS VERY HEAVY & DANGEROUS SHOULD IT FALL ON TOP U, MY ADVICE ,GET IT DONE BY A MECHANIC..

On my 32AV635D there are 4 Allen bolts in recessed holes on the back cover. Remove these (but no others!) and the stand just slides out. Under the base of the stand there are two more Allen bolts which fix the metal brackets to the stand. Removing these will enable you to pack the whole thing into its original box (which you kept) so you can put it on Ebay when you get a bigger model :-)

Of course there is a trick to this. Remove the stand by pushing gently on the clip at the bottom. I usually turn it upside down to do this. Then lay the stand on top side of the foam.
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On the ack of the Monitor there should be some screws holding the stand in place. With a screw driver simply undo the screws and pull th monitor away from the stand. This should allow you to place all the pieces back in the box properly.

First remove the stand. Then remove the bottom of the tv carefully by removing the screws. Then put your fingers between the bottom and the tv, and pull carefully. now you can remove the neck.

likely variator problems. Flat rollers?