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Posted on Feb 05, 2011

My EM usually performs fine, but I occasionally get a very underexposed frame or a frame where the shutter doesn't appear to have opened at all. I've never noticed this happen when taking a picture (the mirror still goes up and makes a clicking sound), the results only show up once the film is developed.

5 Related Answers

arclight1217

BRIAN REISS

  • 208 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 14, 2008

SOURCE: Nikon FE- Winder return position

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Bart Pulverman

  • 362 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 22, 2008

SOURCE: shutter fires when film advance lever is used.

The problem you describe is common with the EM. I have one myself sitting on the junk pile for the same reason. The body is made of plastic and the plastic around the advance lever is a week point. Your body, unfortunately is not repairable. But there is good news. Because of the low cost of a replacement EM on E-bay (under $30), you should consider keeping your lenses and buying a new body (the standard 50mm f1.8 EM is superbly sharp for a low end lens). Since the EM lenses are interchangeable with later models, you could consider a later model used body. Many are selling for fire sale prices.

RCtech

Rob Duron

  • 55 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 11, 2008

SOURCE: nikon fm10 35mm SLR developed pictures turn out white

That sounds like your shutter isn't opening. take the lens of and set the shutter speed to B this should keep the shutter open as long as the release is pushed down. advance one frame and hold down the shutter release while looking at the opening where the lens should be. If the shutter opens you will hear it and see the back plane where the film would sit to be exposed. I expect your shutter won't open.

Good luck
Rob

Anonymous

  • 423 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: Nikon EM (1979?) Won't wind film, photos don't come out

Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.

kakima

  • 102366 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 29, 2010

SOURCE: how do I change the shutter speed on a Nikon EM

The EM doesn't really have a manual shutter speed setting. It does have a Bulb setting for long exposures and a 1/90 second manual for flash, but otherwise the camera automatically sets the shutter speed to go with the currently selected aperture.

Normally you would set the aperture and let the camera set the shutter speed. You can adjust the shutter speed by pressing the exposure compensation button for +2 stops. You can also adjust the exposure by changing the ASA/ISO setting.

If you need a manual, you can download one from http://butkus.org/chinon/nikon/nikon_em/nikon_em.htm

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Hello. My F100 has been working great until the last couple of rolls of film. The numbers are on the negatives but no images. Any ideas?

Usually means that either the film has not been exposed, or has been so grossly underexposed that the images do not register. Try firing the camera without film, but with the back open, and see if a) the shutter works, and b) the lens aperture opens and closes as it should. May need a service, which can be expensive.
Apr 17, 2019 • Photography
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My Canon PowerShot SD 1000 has this problem: when i turn on the camera, the display is black and i can`t see any image through.Same problem on the video mode. it doesn`t appear any error mesage. i tried to...

A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras (including my wife's SD1000, which I have to fix every once in a while with the following easy technique).. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, sometimes with lines, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so, please see this link for further info and a simple fix that may help. By the way, for your camera model, I've found it best to just alternate back and forth between opening the battery door while taking a picture, and gently flicking the lens barrel with the tip of my finger. Usually, it only requires a few tries for my wife's camera, then it's good for another couple months.
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Nikon F3's light meter always underexposed

needs repairing at a qualified shop
when was it last cleaned or serviced ?
if you think the camera is worthy, since its old how much is it worth to you vs a new one
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Nikon EM (1979?) Won't wind film, photos don't come out

Not necessarily. The EM has an M90 setting which will fire the shutter at 1/90th of a second. The meter is inactive on this setting. It was put on the EM so that if the batteries fail, you can shoot at 1/90th and take a guess at the exposure. There is also a small button (blue or chrome, depending on the production run) which lights up a red LED if the batteries are good. The light meter doesn't work until the frame counter is at 1 or higher. Before the #1, the shutter will always fire at 1/2000th of a second to speed up the film loading process. You can tell that the meter is working by observing the meter's scale/needle on the inside of the viewfinder. If it is pointing out of the red zone, it's OK to shoot (proper exposure). If the needle is in the red zone (indicating under or over exposure) the camera will "beep" as an audible warning. Check the battery condition first.
0helpful
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Problem in camera or film roll??

Hey msenile,
It is possible that each frame would have image data imprinted without and image being exposed. This could be caused by the shutter not opening while the camera still exposing the film internally with the image data recorded. It is unlikely that this bad film since the emulsion covers the entire surface of the film and if it were bad the image data would not be recorded either. Another cause of this but very unlikely is every frame was somehow extremely underexposed. This could happen if the camera is set to manual and the light level is low and the shutter speed is set to a fast speed and the aperture is set to a very small aperture. I hope this helps!

Sincerely,
Allan
Go Ahead. Use Us.

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Shooting black frames only

assuming you have the exposure set correctly (if u set way underexpose, the frame will appear black). Try put it in "Auto" mode and see if it works.

If it doesn't, your mirror mechanism may be faulty. One way to check is to take a photo of 2 seconds or longer. Look into the viewfinder, can you see anything through the viewfinder during these 2 seconds?
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All photos underexposed, changing settings does not help

defective shutter curtain opening, it needs pro service. Shutters have life expectancy around 5thou to 10 thou shots.
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Lighter Band On top of the picture

It's a shutter problem--it's not the amount of light per se that causes it, it's the shutter speed. This issue often only shows up at a few shutter speeds. My 1dsII does it around 1/125, although not nearly as badly. Apparently the shutter is bouncing or hanging up at the end of its travel. Sorry, it's either send it to Canon or learn to live with it.
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Why do two pictures of the same scene, taken at about the same time have different exposures?

Your camera light meter uses the concept of multi-spot exposure metering, which is sensitive to subtle differences in scene composition. To determine the overall shutter speed for a scene, the meter takes readings from three zones within the frame. With Portrait orientations, the zones remain in the same place (vertical) on the CCD imager. With landscape orientations, however, the zones are more spread out (horizontal) and the dominant (2 dark and 1 light or 2 light and 1 dark) zones determine the shutter speed. This may cause some areas of the picture to be overexposed or underexposed.
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