My dear wife took the lid handle off our breville gourmet wok. The pieces include a screw, a spring and 3 other parts. Im not sure if i put it together properly. Could you help out. Thanks

You will notice there is a little hook that the spring thing fits into on the device. You want the smaller part of the spring facing upwards and it should tuck in smoothly.

This is the smaller part of the spring facing upwards:


Then it gets tucked in as such:

Take note from the above photo that the square edges on the plastic piece go at the top of the blade piece and the rounded edges are at the bottom.

Then the bottom blade piece rests on top with the curvature facing upwards:
The rest should be straightforward!

I found the answer (see below) posted on another web site. I followed the instructions and replaced the spring. I found, as the original poster had, that the new spring works better than the original and is much more sturdy. To the original instructions, I would add the following:

1) There are about 20 screws so have patience removing and replacing the screws.
2) Step 3, "Slide off the rear panel" requires further clarification as the panel will not slide off even with all screws removed. I had to turn the oven over, with the top of the oven sitting on the work table. I then used a screw driver to lift the two tabs that hold the back panel to the bottom panel. With the tabs lifted, the back panel will rotate away from the oven along the edge where back panel slides into the top panel. The back panel can then be slid out. I have included three photos that show this step.
3) Step 7, "Re-attach feet": Be sure to use the guides on the bottom of the oven to slide the foot assembly onto the oven. I had unsuccessfully tried to screw the feet onto the oven without using the guides.

Oringinal instructions for replacing the broken spring:

Just repaired this yesterday.

Got a spring from Lowes (Hillman Part # 543028 for about $4), it's larger than the original but seems much sturdier, original is really thin metal. Fit the space provided without problem.

Oddly, end result was a more 'giving' spring action, prefer it to original, which loved to snap shut unless door was 100% opened (ie fully 90 degree open).

This is for BOV800XL:
1. Remove all rear screws
2. Remove feet entirely
3. Slide off rear panel
4. I was not able to remove top housing - but I was able to gently pry sides open just enough to thread the new spring with a little ingenuity and effort. Watch out for sharp metal edges everywhere.
5. Slide back in (remember that top edge goes under the top edge/lip)
6. Put all screws back in
7. Re-attach feet

Good luck!

When you say you took the spout apart and can\'t put it back together its only 5 total pieces. The spout, the spring, the handle, the dispenser (rubber insert with plastic stem) and the threaded cap which holds the dispenser and handle to the spout.

If you can\'t get the handle to re attach, that does not surprise me. This is very poor craftsmanship. The plastic nobs that hold the handle onto the dispenser tend to break off.

If this is your problem, you can either, buy a new one for $5 plus shipping depending on where you live OR

You can fix the part that broke.

All you would need is a Drill, a small piece of number 14 copper about an inch long and same size drill bit. Drill the handle as close to center where the plastic molded nobs were located that either broke off or worn away. Then drill with the same size drill the stem to the dispenser which has the rubber stop attached. Drill this as close to the top of the stem where the nobs would snap in to hold the handle in place. You are basically making a pined handle, which will outlast the quality of this blender.

NOTE: You want to use a drill bit about the same size as the number 14 copper wire.

Then with one hand hold the threaded cap with the dispenser placed into position through the hole, be sure to put the spring in, small hole to the bottom of the rubber dispenser, pushing the spring and dispenser up through the threaded cap, attach the handle by putting the piece of copper wire in your hole which will connect your handle to the stem of the stopper. The copper should be cut no wider thent the width of the handle, if it sticks out a tiny bit, that\'s ok. The plastic cap will simply be carved out where the copper rubs against it. After that, simply screw the handle cap back onto the spout and screw the spout back onto the blender making sure the two washers are still on the pitcher.

All in all, for someone who is handy, this should take about 10 minutes. I would rate it about a 5 out of ten for difficulty simply because you have to drill straight and centered in the handle where the nobs were. Other then that its easy and if you can have someone help you put the pin in place, it would also make it easier.

If for some reason the rubber stop does not seem to go back into the spout, make sure the rubber didn\'t role up onto itself. Also if the spout drips, you didn\'t either put the spring back in or you didn\'t drill at the top of the plastic stem but some where in the middle, simply ream the hold towards the top where the plastic nobs would stop. Its a square reseated area in the stem. Looking at it you should be able to tell.

As for the spout instructions, you can download the pdf manual at the manufactures website: http://westbend.com/spl6white-smoothie-maker-plus-600.html

Hope it all helps, Its worked for me!

I believe you're referring to the lid safety switch. Do not operate your machine without this safety switch! The switch / wiring harness are not very hard to install... here's how-

---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET---
1. Remove console, depending on vintage, there should be a couple of screws that will allow you to rotate the console up and back.
2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top. These clips are the only thing that retain the top / lid / cabinet
3. Unplug lid switch harness (small white connector at rear of top)
4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off. The top / lid / cabinet will come off as a single unit. The entire lid switch and harness are connected under the top w/ a couple of screws and a few spring retainers.
5. Buy replacement parts at a local appliance repair shop, including a new striker (the part that pushes the switch down when you close the lid).
6. Reinstall everything reverse from above. When you rotate the cabinet back on, make sure you have the front edge under the base channel and push inward on the rear corners to engage the cabinet on the rear base tabs.

Good luck.

energy from tightening the screw on the plastic cover of the glass lid, resulted in a series of molecular transitions, that reacted with the metal around the glass to produce the shattering of the lid. amazingly producing a new source of energy that should be investigated. the company should recall all glass lids asap, and exchange them with some inert cover material. someone may be seriously injured.
The glass lid on our unit exploded yesterday scaring the heck out of my wife who is still picking glass out of

likely a screw in the center of handle.

Fix #1
These are usually riveted on. If you can find a small enough aluminum pop rivet (most lids are aluminum), you could pin it back together with that. The tricky part is ensuring that the rivet allows the vent to rotate between the opened and closed positions. I suggest cutting out two pieces of non-corrugated cardboard from a cereal box and punching out a hole in each the same diameter as the rivet. Use one on each side of the lid for a washer for the rivet. Include an aluminum washer for the tail end of the rivet. Your parts stack from the inside of the lid should be rivet (head end), cardboard washer, vent piece, lid, cardboard washer, metal washer. The pop rivet will be compressed against the metal washer on the outside when you operate the riveting tool. I suggest having the head on the inside of the lid because it will be easier to clean.

After you compress the rivet, tear the cardboard washers out. The vent should now pivot correctly.

Fix # 2
Use a 2-56 x 1/4 stainless steel screw (or similar metric size) and two stainless steel nuts. Assemble the vent to the lid using the screw and one of the nuts. Tighten the nut only until it starts to drag on the vent, then back it off slightly. Next, put the other nut on. Hold the first nut in place and tighten the second nut down onto it to lock it in place on the screw. The vent should still turn freely, but the nuts won't come off without tools if you did it properly.

Do not use plated or plain steel hardware. These will contaminate your food.

I had the same problem. I had to take it apart and rewind it manually. To do this:
Step 1:
There are 4-bolts to remove on the orange plastic section the screw into the motor housing (one of them is hidden inside the orange plastic housing, you'll see an opening for it). There are also 3 screws in the black plastic exhaust housing that screw into the orange plastic housing, find those and remove.

Step 2:
Carefully remove the engine from the plastic housing. I didn't disconnect the throttle cable or the electric wires (points) just kind of worked around them.

Step 3:
The mechanism is kind of crappy. There are two black pieces with a spring in the middle, and a metal disc on the bottom with a ribbon coil on the underside of it. The top plastic piece is what turns the flywheel when you pull the cord. The spring in between connects the two plastic piece. This is probably what popped out. There is a piece sticking up on one end, which inserts into the hole in the top black plastic piece. If you remove the little guardrail things you can probably remove just that piece. KEEP TENSIONS ON THE PULL CORD. Once you remove that top black piece, it should start to recoil.

Step 4:
If it did recoil, put the spring back in the top plastic piece, and then put the plastic/spring combo back into the the bottom plastic piece, there is a little groove for the bottom of the spring to slide into. Then put the little guardrail screws back on. Make sure the big metal wire thing hasn't slipped down into the shaft of the weed whacker. That needs to go back into the motor, as it is what gets spun and in turn spins the strings. As you start to put the motor back in, you may have to pull on the pull cord a few times to get the flywheel and plastic piece to line up. Once you hear the motor start to catch, then you should be able to wiggle it back into place and put back all of the screws. Then give it a shot. If it pulls out again, you may have to drill a new hole into the top black plastic piece for that spring to slide into (this is the crappy design part).

Step 5:
If the pull cord didn't retract, you need to remove the other two pieces (lower black plastic piece and metal disc with ribbon). The metal ribbon has a nub on the outside that hooks onto a plastic piece in the bottom of the orange plastic housing. You'll need to wind it around once or twice to "charge" the ribbon, then wind the string back on the black plastic piece. The black piece should slide into the center of the metal disc and catch the inside of the ribbon. Once you get these two together, again, make sure the metal ribbon piece is wound once past normal and then you have to slide both parts together down into the housing catching the metal ribbon loop over the orange plastic nub. It's tricky, it took me a few tries. Once you get that you can try and test the pull cord, you'll see it pull out and feel it retract due to that metal ribbon. Then go back and do step 4, where you put the upper black plastic piece with spring back into place and replace the little metal guardrails.

This whole thing took a few tries, and the pull cord still gets stuck out. It's a major pain to say the least, but after the 5th time fixing it, you'll be a real pro.

You may download a copy at http://mypdfmanuals.com/ref_sien.php?ID=2816330

This is the solution for the BLACK Braun electic water heater, so you must adjust the color to fit if yours is another color.
First take the 3 pieces that go inside the top. Two look like a "Z", and the other is the square, white doo-dad. Take the square piece and slip it into the slot with lid open. YOU CANT PUT IT IN FLAT UNLESS THE LID IS OPEN! Make sure that you can put it in FLAT. Once it is in flat, take it back out. Now you have the 2 "Z" pieces. Fiddle around with these pieces until you learn how to put them in together so they will fit together. This may take several tries. There is a piece that acts like a pivot. Now take all 3 pieces out. The trick is not to put the 2 "Z" pieces in together. You have to figure out what Z-piece to put in first. Then put the rectangular white piece in, and then the other Z-piece. This all must be done with the lid OPEN, otherwise the rectangular piece will not lie flat. Make sure the little spring inside this rectangular piece it put in properly - it should be against the little black doo-dad on the lid. If everything is sitting happily together, you should be able to snap the other black part onto the lid, and close it successfully.