At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Check the AC units condensation drain, it is likely plugged. When an AC is running it dehumidifies the air as it passes through the evaporator core, this creates a lot of liquid water, it must be drained off.
Open up the computer and clean the dust out of the fan and processor heat sink. If it is a temperature-controlled variable speed fan, it will probably not have to work so hard to keep the processor cool.
If it is a fixed-speed fan, it may be getting loud because the bearings are wearing out. Gently try to rock the fan blade unit - it should not have any wobble or slop in the bearings, and it should rotate easily.
If necessary, clean as much dust as you can out of the power supply without taking it apart.
Do not use a regular vacuum cleaner to **** dust off the motherboard. The high-velocity airflow may generate electrostatic charges that can damage the board. It's probably OK to vacuum out the heat sink if you hold the fan still to keep the vacuum cleaner from over-speeding it.
the "nobs" that have the noise is what we call a "dirty pot" Some can be cleaned others are to far gone to ever work well again. To clean a "dirty pot" you need to get into the internal area of the amplifier. Most amps have screws in the bottom that hold the unit into the wood frame. unplug everthing from the amp. turn the unit upside down and remove the retaining screws. that should allow the guts" of the unit to slide out. don't force anything. then you should be able to see the "pot" from the top. If you can you get electric contact cleaner (I use the NAPA brand) and the spray stick (red tube) that comes with the can of contact cleaner. In a safe area (no flame or heat) you spray the contact cleaner on the top and sides of the "pot" then work the knob back and forth all the w ay to each end of the allowable movement but never try to go beyond where the knob wants to stop. repeat this at least three times. take care not to let the contact cleaner drip onto anything as it could leave a stain. I usually try to use a lot of newspaper under the unit and be careful not to use any more spray than you need. You should feel the pot getting easy to move as it gets cleaner. Let everytthing dry off before you reinstall the amp into the outside frame. Move slowly and take your time. If it works it will save you a lot of repair cost as changing out the pots is not fun and could cost almost as much as the amp is worth
IS: Ignition Switch VR: Gauge Voltage Regulator (mounted with the gauges) G: Gauge SU: Gas tank sending unit
The gauge deflects through heating a strip of metal that bends when hot. There is resistance wire wrapped around that strip to heat it up. One end of that wrap of wire is attached to the gauge "voltage regulator, the other end to the tank sending unit. The "voltage regulator" cycles between conducting power from the Ign. Sw. to the gauge, and disconnecting the gauge from that voltage. The sending unit in the tank varies resistance in response to the position of the float in the tank. Full: virtually no resistance. Empty: a lot of resistance. When the tank is full, during the period the "voltage regulator" is on, the strip of metal heats up a lot, because the sender has almost no resistance. When the tank is empty, during the period of time the "voltage regulator" provides voltage, the strip barely gets heated, deflecting the gauge hardly at all, because the resistance the sending unit creates limits the current through the gauge.
You have almost no continuity through the sending unit except near full, and at a few other position. Replace the sender, and you will have a functioning gauge.
1. pull the unit out from the wall
2. Remove the screws holding on the larger rear panel.
3. Using a vacume cleaner extension, remove as much debris as possible from all accessible components.
4. Clean out the dryer vent and the connection to the wall, making sure that air can pass easily.
THAT SHOULD DO YA. If the heat continues to cut off, you are dealing with a faulty heating element in which case you will be best off to purchase a new dryer. (replacing a heating element is typically the beginning of a failing unit)
IS, UNIT NEAR WINDOW I ALWAYS POSITION THEM AWAY FROM LIVING SPACES. THE PROPER LOCATION IS JUST AS IMPORTANT AS INSTALLATION SOME THINGS INSTALLERS DONT PAY MUCH ATTENTION TO WITH TODAYS SCROLL- SCREW COMPRESSORS NOISE CAN BE A PROBLEM A GOOD INSTALLER WOULD TAKE CARE OF THIS AT NO COST TO HOMEOWNER, THE CHEAPEST PRICE ISNT ALWAYS THE BEST CHOICE.
When you cleaned your cleaner, you must be gentle with it. Wipe down with a lightly moist cloth or paper towel. make sure you dont shove any grime between the metal cleaning grid and the plastic holding it all together. that can cause lots of problems. Your air purifier probably wont start because of an auto shut off safety feature. Be sure that everything is in its proper place.... make sure hte front grill is fastened on correctly as well as the back grill. if those are not secured properly the unit will not start. also, check that your collection grid is placed all the way inside the unit and wait for the click noise that indicates that its locked in place. at that point the unit should turn on and you can once again enjoy fresh, pure air!
The screw that is located in the center of the handle, that holds the assecory hose holder must be tight. My screw was missing, put one in and cured the problem. Sounds stupid but it worked. Got this idea off the Bissell web site. Also if you have a pump belt it may need replacing.The cover is on the side of the machine. Go to the Bissell web site and look up by your model # and name of machine. There are several quick fixes that you can do yourself. Why pay for expensive repairs when the Bissell site will help you for free. Good luck.
×