It wont turn on and starty working iv changed the batterys what else can i do ?

Make sure the batteries are all facing the same and the correct direction.

Check your snare and the red knob next to it, if you turn this knob it will turn off the snare, it could even have a short or etc.

Probably the battery replacement was NOT done correctly or there is a problem with the battery voltage getting to the memory.
The original message was probably the result of the unit detecting the data was corrupted due to the backup battery not maintaining the memory.

The CORRECT Lithium cell for this unit is a CR2450

This is NOT a common available cell and LIKELY the person installed a readily available one which is not working.

Here is link to a supplier:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=N340-ND

This cell is thicker than the commonly available cells and if the readily available was installed, it would not make contact. Open the unit and check the cell in the holder at BT1 on the board.

Here is service manual which has disassembly instructions.

i) Disconnect one lead of loudspeaker & insert an open-ended guitar cable into headphone socket.

ii) Put a dc voltmeter across open end jack then turn Frontman ON for a few seconds.

iii) The reading should be about 0volts - if the voltage is high (27v), then it is likely that the PA chip TDA1514A has blown.

iv) If,however, the voltage is correct in iii) , then reconnect speaker & put guitar cable into the POWER AMP IN socket & connect other end to guitar...Turn on briefly, if there is still hum then fault is in the output stages & will require chassis removal to solve.

SEE IF IT IN DEVICE PRINTER AND RIGHT CLICK AND TROUBLE SHOOT.

NOT a battery issue.

Note that many of these devices have a parameter one can set for "contrast" or "viewing angle". You might want to check your owners manual for this possibility.

I downloaded the DTX manual and there IS a contrast control on the back of the unit near the top left facing the back...
IT MAY require a screwdriver to adjust it.

Assuming that the amplifier is functioning properly, I suspect that the problem is either in the cord, the plug socket on the bass, or the volume control potentiometer. First, I would try another cord that is known to be in good condition (ALWAYS plug the cord into the instrument FIRST). Second, carefully remove the cord receptacle plug from the bass and examine the solder joints (check for loose wires). Third, carefully remove the plate that holds the volume and tone pots. Examine these controls for loose wires or faulty solder joints. CAUTION: If solder joints are found to be the culprit, care must be taken to correct this problem. If too much heat enters the pot, it can be ruined!

http://www.yamaha.co.jp/manual/english/result.php?div_code=emi
This should link to owners manual..Hope this helps.

youll need to change the sensitivity on the brain and all will be good

hi,
the right crash is a '3 zone pad' (notice the semi-circular groove around the front edge of the pad).

this means you should get a different sound from the bell, the main area of the pad, and the front edge.

In order to mimic a real crash cymbal, the 'crash' sound comes from hitting the edge of the pad.

In reality, there are ribbon switches (like mobile phone keypads) underneath the bell & edge areas of the pad that detect hits to these areas.