Installed the system, its working but theres no power going to the amp for my sub, and the subwoofer isnt working

instead of finding a low frequency line to attach to your LOC (line output convertor) use the built in crossover on yours subwoofer amp or an external crossover to limit the frequency range going to the subs

make sure if the amp work at 1 or 2 ohms you need to setup the same in the woofer.chek if the woofer is 2 or 4 ohms dual voice coil and how the amp work better

any amp over 400 watts can power pretty much any sub even one without a sub output just bridge the connection to an amp without sub output. btw a subwoofer does not use as much watts as it says on the sub it usually only take a couple hundred watts to power the sub and make it sound clean

No to be jerky but, bring it back to the "professional Installer".

the problem sounds like your new sub is drawing to much power and your amp can not handle it. bridging the amp is a good way to get the full power out of your amp. But it isnt always suggested, my solution is to get a bigger amp. I install stereo systems for a living, and i tell my customers that it is smart to get an amp about 100 more watts then the rms rating of your subwoofer.

Is there a option on the chanels that say ''Bridged''? If so, you can hook the subs up in parellel or series to get different ohm loads. Usually the lower ohms, the more power amp puts out. Those subs can handle 225 watts RMS whitch means the power it can handle constantly. If the amp gives more than 225 watts RMs, you could be at risk of blowing the sub. If you could give me the model # of the amp, I can be of more help.

we need a little more information to help out here...how do you know the sub isnt blown? why type of sub/amp/ radio? any lights on the amp? what color? is the amp powering on?

do you have a power on signal wire hooked up?

Hello,

I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.

My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.

First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.

THIS UNIT HAS NO SUB WOOFER AMP IN IT. THE ONLY WAY TO OVER COME THIS IS TO HOOK THE LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT SPEAKERS STRAIGHT TO THE SUB WOOFER AND THEN GO FROM THE SUB WOOFER BACK TO THE INPUTS ON THE BACK OF THE UNIT FOR THE FRONT SPEAKERS. THE SUB WOOFER THIS WAY WILL EXTRACT THE BASS AND THE FRONT WILL RECEIVE THEIR PART. THIS SOUNDS CRAZY AS HELL I KNOW BUT THAT'S HOW I GOT MINE TO WORK. THE OUTPUT FOR THE SUBWOOFER IS USELESS AND PUT THERE FOR YOU TO HOOK UP AN AMP FOR A SUB WOOFER. EVERYTHING HAS SHORT COMINGS, AND THAT'S THE ONE FOR THE AX-720.