Hi, We use many Ferrups at this facility. Many are old.Today i replaced four 33Ah battery. When we started the unit, those two big capacitors (at the far end when you look from top) were making terrible arcing sound. We shut it down. It was not working before-I thought we had to change the batteries. What's wrong? Please answer me at [email protected], or [email protected]

Hi,

All the manuals can be foung by going at the link below:
http://www.powerfactorinc.com/ups/powerware/ferrups_manuals__options__supp.htm

Thanks,
E-ware

Suggest you give Eaton a call. They purchashed Powerware/Best Power and still sell and service the FERRUPS:
Toll Free: 1 800 356 5737
E-mail (Hardware): [email protected]

Mike Decamp is clueless. That is not a answer. The UPS has large DC capacitors. These do go bad over time. The capacitors are required to maintain a good DC Buss and helps in assisting when putting the UPS in bypass and back online. You can not turn on the inverter with out precharging the capacitors. Get the part numbers of the caps and replace. Make sure UPS and batteries are off or you will get shocked.

The manufacturers replacement part number for the battery is: 153302035-001

You could also try searching for the following: UPS12-270FR 12V 33Ah

The batteries in a FERRUPS typically last 3-6 years depending on how many power outages you have, how much heat there is, etc. So, 3 months doesn't sound right. Hopefully, you are buying batteries from a reputable source. Eaton bought Powerware about 6 years ago and retained their service network which has lots of techs trained on the FERRUPS. I suggest you contact them:
Toll Free: 1 800 356 5737
E-mail: [email protected]

start car and then take a battery lead off and if the engine stops the alternator isnt chargine ,if so then check for power to the big lead if no power then check the power distribution box ,if need be rune a wire from the + battery terminal to the big lead on the alternator and try that ,if power to the big terminal and no charge as stated then take the alternator off and get a genuine bosch factory exchange unit ,yes i know its not cheep but at least it will work

Hello:

There is a problem within the digital board assembly. This is the metal can like unit to the left side of the unit when looking inside it with the back off. The power management is inside this unit. There are 7 1000uf 16 volt capacitors on this small power supply that needs to be replaced. The pwr board is the first you see after opening the Digital unit. Replaced the capacitors with 680uf 16v capacitors instead of 1000uf. After replacing the capacitors looking thru the holes in the digital assembly there will be a green flashing LED, Watch this light for a moment, should stop flashing and stay steadily green if all is normal. Also the power light will still flash for at least 60seconds then go off. Turn on power and happy viewing...Cost to repair this should range around $200-250.00 dollars.

Thk Please leave message...

wwright3 has no clue. There is no "On" button. Push "Control"(Red Button) then #2 (Auto button) Enter and Enter to confirm. Then is't online. Make sure the battery breaker is closed if you have that option.

With a set this old Company will not refund anything, So ck capacitors cp114,120,150 if any of them are puffed up on tiop replace all 3 capacitors.cp150 2200uf 16v use 25v and other 2 are 220uf 35v.resolder all pinns on FBT flyback transfomer.

Check the capacitors. There are two to look for, one on the motor, the other on the PC controller board. 
STEP ONE: Unplug the unit and support it on a table. 

STEP TWO: remove the controller board from the exhaust side of the unit by unscrewing the screws holding the cover to the unit. Unplug the motor wire harness by pressing down on the white retaining clip. They go only one way, but it doesn’t hurt to note which is which. 

STEP THREE: Unbolt the ground wire from the face plate and the whole board should come out. Unscrew the four screws holding the PC board. Look for a little foam pad that will drop out. Remember where to replace it. Screws and capacitor may have blue locktite on them. 

STEP FOUR: Find the capacitor. It’s the part that looks like a tootsie roll, black with two wires coming out one side. It’s between the CPU chip and the big red square block. If it looks bloated, burnt or melted, you found the problem. Replace it with a 1000 microfarad (1000 uf/ 10 volt) ten volt capacitor with a radial lead. About $5 for the part at most electronic parts stores. Careful desoldering the old capacitor to avoid damaging the PC board. WATCH THE POLARITY. There is a negative and positive side. The negative side has a chevron (<) mark and is marked on the PC board. On mine the negative side was nearest the black micro chip and the positive side was towards the red JEFU MPE part. Use a little bolt-tite on the screws of the PC board and some on the capacitor on the PC board to limit vibration. Reinstall the board, plug it in and give it a whirl. 

If no joy, STEP FIVE: Find the motor start capacitor. It is bolted near the motor, black about 1x 2 x 4 and has two red wires coming out of it. Take a battery operated resistance meter on a setting of R x 100 or higher. Charge the capacitor by connection one lead of the tester to one red wire and the other lead to the second red wire. You may have to strip the wire to make contact. Next reverse the leads and you should see the needle jump. Do it a third time incase the first try was discharging. If no needle jumping, replace capacitor. Couldn’t find this locally. May have to by directly from JET Tools. L

Recommend you hard crimp wire splices if cutting off the motor capacitor. .  You can check the windings on the motor too. Check for continuity between the white-yellow-blue-black wires of the motor harness. Any combination should work. If not, motor shot, time for some bigger bucks nrepair.
 
Hope this helps.