Thermador RED30VRS Electric Range Oven dead

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https://www.thermador.com/us/support/owner-manuals

When on Maximum a lot of electric ovens turn on both the broil and bake elements. When you turn on bake and it doesn't work then more than likely the bake element is bad. If you have a volt-ohm meter handy, unplug the oven from power. Remove the back panel. You should see the two wires connection to the bake element. No need to remove them at this time. Set your meter to ohms (horseshoe symbol) and place the meter probes as follows, one on the left and the other on the right metal part of the connectors for the element. The meter should read a fairly low resistance around 16 ohms if the element is good. If it is a high reading then the element is bad. As an example you can also check the broil element in the same manner and the resistance in ohms should be low, in the 16 ohm range. A new element can be ordered online by looking up the Make and model number for your oven. If you need one quicker, Home Depot and Lowes often carry "universal" elements. Disconnecting the connections and removing the two screws inside the oven that hold it in place will allow you to pull it out toward the front. Installation is the reverse of removal.

unless ur not reading the voltage reading correct or using the proper voltage setting on alternating current and not direct current? it is showing ur not getting the full voltage as it should show 120 volts

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!



On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-


Oven Won Turn on http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

HI. You can Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.


This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.

NOTE- The element may have small holes and bubbles on the coils as well. This is a sign of a burned out element. Test the element connectors as well.

since you said the broiler does work , take the wires off the broiler element and put on the bake . then when you put on the broiler the bake should work . the light bulb principle, just remember to wrap all loose wire with electrical tape and disconnect from wall while working.

Well, to ensure the element isn't bad, you can take an ohm meter to the contacts of it and measure the resistance. It should be around 20 ohms. If it is much greater or infinite, the element is bad. To get to the contacts you will need to unplug the oven, pull it away from the wall and remove the rear panel. Then disconnect the element wiring and touch the probes from the meter to the contacts on the element. Otherwise, usually, the temp sensor is bad if the broiler still works, this is a small pencil shaped rod on the inside top of the oven. You can test it the same way and it again should be around 20 ohms. You can order a new parts locally or from repairclinic.com. Let me know what you find.

Benjamin

magic, start with the basics first. See if you have the right power going to the oven. At the terminal block on the oven, where the cord attaches, you should have 120V from the center terminal to each end terminal. You should have 240V across the 2 end terminals. If you don't have this, there is your problem. If that's ok, check the voltage at the bake element terminals in back. Should be 240V when in bake. If that checks ok, then it would be the element itself. Check it, with power off and wires disconnected from the element it will ohm at approx. 20 to 22.6 ohms. If you don't have the power at the element then I would suspect the oven controller. The fact that it's heating to 170 degrees leads me to believe that you are missing a leg of power. Catriver.

After removing the racks, rack rails and the back plate I removed the 2 screws the hold the bake element. Lifting the front of the bake element up and carefully pulling the element out and gently moving the element so the connector clear the hole I was able to disconnect the wire. After testing for continuity with an ohm meter (non found) I determined the element need to be replaced. $37 and 45 minutes total.

The problem in either a bad relay on the control board or a bad bake element. You can use an ohm meter to check for resistance on the bake element. Any resistance means it is ok. Check for 240 volts to bake element. If element checks ok then replace the control board.

In alot of ovens preheat will cause the both the broil and bake element to come on. You are most likely getting heat from the broil element. This means either the bake element is bad or the relay on the oven control is bad. If the element shows resistance with an ohm meter then replace the oven control board.