In have a spst 12v lighted toggle switch that i use in my hobby i cant keep it lighted i use it to shut off the power to sideing tracks on my ho model train. new to wireing it hase 3 blades pos acc neg . i used them to isolate a modeel train. i just want it to work and lite up when turned on. thanks gi joe

You will need to first put a meter on the leads of the transformer an see if it is putting out the proper amount of voltage and amperage. The output of each will be listed on the back of the transformer.....ex voltage output will be 12v output. If you eliminate that then you have to go the the track and make sure all of the pieces of track are connected properly. If the current through the track is disrupted then you will not be able to move the train. If this is an older set then cleaning the tracks may help this.

Sounds like there is a short in that cars wiring,examine this piece for defects

controller has two low voltage wires that go to either a terminal connection for track or to connections for either side if train rail

HO gage track and a HO compliant controller. Any hobby shop can sell you the correct parts.

The toggle switch automatically resets all faults when it is turned to the off position. I would turn the toggle switch off, turn off the breaker on the generator and then turn off all the loads in the house except a few lights. Turn the generator breaker back on, then turn the toggle switch back to automatic. If it starts and stays running, you were overloading the generator. Turn on other loads slowly and keep track of what is on so you don't overload it again. If it still does not stay on, you may have a problem with the panel. Let me know what happens.

You want toggle switch that mimics operation of pushbutton, except you want SPDT.
For example doorbell button is a momentary SPST
http://www.mrsupply.com/leviton-5657-2w-double-throw-ctr-off-momentary-contact-switch.html
http://www.csnlighting.com/Legrand-TM811DTMOBK-LEE1616.html

For others finding this thread: Many people want double throw switch for 240V, thinking they have to turn off both hot legs of 240V circuit.
240v can be turned off by cutting power to one hot leg.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

Remove Power Supply
1 . Shut down your computer and unplug the power cord and all cables connected to the system.

2 . Open the computer case and disconnect all power connectors from the motherboard, drives, cards and fans.

3 . Remove the four screws that secure the power supply to the case. These screws are located on the back of the computer case, at each corner of the power supply.

Wire and Start Power Supply
1 . Switch the power supply to the "Off" (sometimes "O") setting.

2 . Insert the end of one wire from a single pole, single throw (SPST) switch into the green wire of the ATX power connector (the largest power supply connector).

3 . Insert the end of the other wire from the SPST switch into the black wire of the ATX power connector. If your power supply has two black wires, connect the SPST to the black wire directly beside the green wire.

4 . Wrap electrical tape around the ATX power connector and wires from the SPST switch to hold them in place. Make sure there is no exposed copper or silver wire from the SPST switch wires.

5 . Turn the SPST switch to the "Off" position, if not already set. Plug the power supply into the wall outlet and switch it to the "On" (sometimes "I")setting.

6 . Connect any other computer components that you wish to operate without the motherboard, such as fans, drives or cards. Turn the SPST to the "On" setting to activate the power supply.


Hope the above information will be helpful to you.
Thanks.

Had the same problem. The loco would buzz, but no movement. Took the loco & controller to my local hobby shop for testing. Found out my loco was fine, but the controller had shorted out. Swapped it out & it's all good.

Hello tblau7716,

The ignition wire (usually red) should be connected to a switched 12V source. If your boat does not have an ignition switch, simply wire it to the 12V source through a toggle switch. Just turn the toggle on when you want to use the audio system. As for the illumination wire, cap it off to keep it from shorting out on anything else. It's normally connected into the dash light dimmer circuit so the system display will dim when you turn the lights on. It's not needed for any other purpose and it won't hurt anything to keep it disconnected.

Hope this helps.

The original fan switch for the SEG196 (circa 1995) is a four terminal switch- two for the fan and two for the light . Note that the switch spade lugs for the red and blue wires (which when connected activate the fan) are larger than those for the white and brown wires (which when connected activate the oven light). This design presumably prevented miswiring of the switch at original assembly. Since the four terminal switch is nearly impossible to find (it was discontinued several years ago), an inexpensive fix is to replace the four wire switch with a two wire SPST toggle switch. However, this means that either the fan function or the light function can be preserved- not both. I elected to keep the fan function, and simply wired the red & blue wires to the two terminals of a heavy duty replacement SPST toggle switch. Be sure to fully insulate the remaining (in this case) white and brown wires with electrical tape or wire nuts before tucking them below the new switch. Total cost: $6.00 for switch. NOTE: TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE AT ELECTRICAL PANEL BEFORE ATTEMPTING REPAIR!