Problems with a GFCI outlet (no voltage). GFCI outlet was replaced and reset recently but that didn't fix the problem. One other GFCI breaker in the same room is working OK. Also, water is entering through the electrical panel in lower level of TH. Three electrical breakers were replaced recently. Water was present on the breakers.
Re: Problems with a GFCI outlet (no voltage). GFCI...
If your room is powered by one breaker you need only one gfci and it has to be hooked up correctly to protect the other outlets a new gfci will have a tape tag over the out side usually the top set of nuts the water in the panel is a major fire hazard i would fix this problem first your feed to the gfci may have shorted out in the wall between the breaker and the gfci if it is wired separate from the other gfci in that room one thing you can do to save calling an electrician is go to lows home depot or any electrical store and purchase a plug in tester they are inexpensive and easy to use it will tell you if wires are hooked up correctly backwards or if you have a short somewhere in the line this is the same little gadget that an electrical inspector uses to make sure new homes are wired correctly an outlet will still work even if some wires are incorrect in the circuit the outlet tester confirms all is good and safe
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The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run additional loads.
if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
First check to see if your gen has a tripped GFCI that needs to be reset at the outlet. If it's not a GFCI outlet, it's possible you may have a disconnected or broken wire going to the outlet. You'll need to trace the wiring back to the meter..
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again.
Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks.
If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads.
You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle.
If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps.
If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker.
Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker.
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
2) Move hot wire to different, same-amp, circuit breaker and see if problem persists. Look for loose quick connect on back of each switch and outlet on circuit, including GFCI, replace GFCI.
Are you connecting a new spa? Or is old spa having problems? Exactly which problems? Or if the element getting wet and causing GFCI to trip? Is circuit breaker tripped? Add a comment for live response 11-7-12
I believe you are referring to a GFCI receptacle. Did you have power at the GFCI Location? If so, make sure you wire the line and load portion of the GFCI unit properly.
In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets. If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems: (1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal). check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct. The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds power to the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstream side of the circuit). (2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly - check the reset button(s) just to make sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage. Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outlets are correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VAC should begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the end of the circuit until the problem is identified. What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of the circuit involved - including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) - and then use that as a resource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem. Here's the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram: How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)? It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may find that you're dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker box for any breakers that are in the "Tripped" position - and diagram those circuit(s) too. What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that is supposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit - or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.
Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table saw on a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, the total curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breaker panel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding the ENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel). In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds the shop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.
The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem to diagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1st device box - no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls - so long as they are not live. What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems so quickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. "chirper" tester), which would allow you to check the wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears. At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you've found your fault. At Home Depot/Lowe's/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you back about $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one that lights and LED and also chirps.
It means that the outlet has tripped. There are one of three problems which you can check. 1. The outlet was wired wrong. On many new GFCI receptacles if the wiring is incorrect the receptacle will trip and not allow you to use it. Proper wiring methods can be found by searching in your search bar "how to wire a gfci". It is possible that what was plugged in went over the amp rating of the GFCI. causing it to trip (note: not as likely as your main circuit breaker would have tripped first). The only other things, which has happened to me a lot is the outlet can be super sensitive to current change. GFCI measure high and quick rises in current. If it is too sensitive to the rise in current the receptacle will trip. In this case it will need replacement, and the store will exchange it for you free of charge.
how and when does the indicator work on the Siemens GFCI?
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