I have a hard time getting the base of the saw to pivot, I've had it for 3 years now and all of a sudden it acts like something is stuck. I've cleaned it up and attempted to take the base off but no such luck. Thanks

There should be an Alignment Adjustment setting. Check the guide, band alignment, slot adjustments. The base plate alignment must be horizontal. Lay a small LEVEL on the base tray to see if it is tilted somewhat?

Put the model number (it'll be something like "123.3321") in the Google search bar and you'll find a manual for download. Then list on Craigslist and you'll be rid of it quickly!

If your handle has two buttons, they are usually a power swtich and safety button so the saw isn't accidently started. No, power should not matter in the function of the swing arm. Most chop saws lock down by way of a small chain from the base to the end of the handle. Most miter saws and some chop saws lock down by way of a pin located on the pivot point of the swing arm. The pin locks the swing arm down by passing through a hole in the base pivot bearing.

Not knowing what make or model miter saw you have here's how most of them work. There should be a long arm, about half straight and half having a lazy 'S' shape to it going from the base near where the upper head pivots up to the blade guard. It should be attached to the base with a shoulder screw so it is free to pivot. The shoulder screw in the blade guard (it may or may not have a bearing on it) passes through an elongated hole in the lazy 'S" end of the arm. Somewhere about half way down the arm there should be a screw through a bearing or bushing in the upper metal housing that rides on top of the arm. As the head is lowered for a cut the mid-point bearing pushes the arm down and pulls the blade guard up. If any of these three screws fell out, the system won't work.

Check the threaded rods that turn to move the motor assembly up and down. These rods are sometimes oiled or greased and this just attracts saw dust and eventually binds up the system. Clean as best you can and the threads they turn in to raise the blade. Also check the tilt rods.
Another thing to check is the joints everything pivots on. Occasionally a small peice of wood can get in just the right (or wrong) place and the motor assembly won't move because it's blocking the pivot points.

This is how to solve the stiff Makita plunge saw easily!!!
I've just carried out the following steps and it's like a new saw.
Clear a table top and grab the following tools:
Philips screw driver
4mm allen key
grease- i used silicone grease
1. Take the base off the saw by removing the 4 x obvious screws.
2. If you look at the saw, you'll see that is pivots on a single pin at the rear. You'll also notice that there is a 4mm allen screw driven into that pin.
3. Remove the 4mm allen screw.
4. Fill the screw hole with grease and drive the 4mm allen screw back in (it'll force grease along the pin internally). Do this 3 or 4 times.
5. Work the mechanism back and forth as if you're plunging the saw- you'll notice that it becomes so much more easy to move.
6. Wipe away the black dirty grease that you have forced out of the pin. Reinsert the 4mm allen screw and tighten
7. refix the base and spring.
8. Job done.
This actually bugged me for ages until i finally decided to have a look and see what the issue was.

I have a hard time believing that as well. Though I haven't used that saw, I thought they were supposed to be well engineered and manufactured....
Check to make sure there is nothing obstructing the motor itself from moving as it should. If there are truly no obstuctions, it's possible that something has vibrated loose and the mechanism is not engaging as it should, especially as the trunnion starts to bear the weight of an inclined motor.
I recommend you consult the exploded parts diagram available in the online manual, which you can get here, or that you contact steel city's technical support customer service department here.
I'm sorry I can't offer more, but I'm not familiar with that particular saw or it's mechanisms.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

there is a pin that you have to pull out

Most of the time all miter saws have a hard turning base as a back up for the lock in the front. If you are to the point where you cant even move the dang thing you can try to loosen the screw in the back and /or add 3in1 oil in the connection at the back. If you have had it for awhile and it has just become a issue you probally have some saw dust stuck inbetween. That did happen to me. Hope it helps let me know.

my saw had this exact same problem, here's how i fixed mine.

okay so here's a schematic of the saw
http://www.toolpartspro.com/image/LS...-Makita-PB.pdf

whether you have the exact same issue as my saw, in order to further investigate you need to get to the mechanism that locks the saw. To do this you need to take the turn base (140) off the foot base (156) . its really not too hard, just a little awkward setting the saw in different positions to remove the various parts.

Specifically on mine I had issues with the threaded rod (118) not screwing into the stopper holder (135). You'll see this part when you flip the saw upside down.

So to remove the turn base(140) from the foot base (156)....

Remove the kerf board (108) and under you will see a big bolt, go ahead and remove this. Then there are 4 more bolts which take off the guide rule (117), this what your piece of wood is put against when making the cut. Once these 5 bolts are out, the turn base can now be separated from the feet. Now you'll have a better view of the mechanics and see what is or isn't happening when you screw the handle to lock the miter position.

Part 136 (turn stopper) is what actually wedges to a pocket in the foot base which makes the saw lock. when you screw in the handle it actuates this part. make sure that is happening. I had to take out the threaded rod (118) and tighten it on a vice and work the stopper holder (135) deeper onto the threaded rod. use WD 40 to help it a long. You'll need to take off some other various parts to to get the rod out. this will be obvious once you have everything turned over.

Now that everything is apart you can blast it with some WD40 or what you think is best here. I used lithium grease. You'll see its especially important to lube up the pivot post that the 2 bases center on, (where the big bolt under the kerf board goes). also the slide plates (153) may be rusty, they'll fall out when you separate the 2 base plates. clean those up and spray them and anything else which will help with smooth movement.

the only important item to check once everything is put back together is the guide rule. this can be adjusted slightly in or out of square. Get a nice framing square and make sure your locked in at 90 (or actually 0 degrees on the saw) Sliding the saw the full distance of the cut on the square is ideal and maybe this was a good time to recalibrate that movement anyway.

hope this works.
Ben.