- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
replace plastic tubing and install valve. I put one under sink and one at the refrigerator. For plastic line I use push to fit connectors. They
are available at HD, Lowe's amazon plumbing supply. You should use a flexible tube cutter also available at the store. You will get a clean square cut.
I have the same problem. The design is bad with the weight of the hose and the lelength of the plastic inlet tube from the body creates a sheer force that causes it to break. I cannot find anything but a plastic inlet part. If someone would create a metal inlet connector they could make a lot of money. You need a lot of hose slack when moving your power washer or it will break off the inlet and the parts are abotu $20. Very poor design!!
The A.I.R. (Air Injection Reaction) System was included on California-emission equipped vehicles. The system is designed to provide additional oxygen to continue the combustion process after the exhaust gases leave the combustion chamber. The system begins with the outside air inlet, which is a short, L-shaped open-ended rubber hose running from the lower front passenger fender well into the canister. The black plastic round canister is located in the front passenger-side engine compartment, adjacent to the EECS (Evaporative Emission Control System) canister, which looks similiar, but the EECS canister has electrical connectors on the top. While the charcoal canister of the EECS is a sealed unit, the A.I.R. canister has a twist-off lid to access the disposable filter. The inlet hose goes into the canister, air then passes through the charcoal filter, and travels into the outlet hose (also made of black rubber), which then connects directly to a metal tube coming up the front of the engine. Please contact me if you need a diagram or photos.
Remove fuse #8 in the fuse box under the hood to disable the fuel pump and open the gas cap. Disconnect the battery also for safety precautions. Start the engine and let it die. Take the plastic clamp off, might break and screw might be frozen depending on what part of the country you're in. Take the plastic top off the shrader valve and depress it to relieve the pressure, small amount of gas will come out. Then using needle nose pliers, depress the plastic clips on the inlet and outlet on the filter. Again, once removed, will lose some gas, take note of hose was inlet and which is outlet. Replace in reverse order. Your plastic fuel filter clamp may be broken like mine was, zip ties work wonders until you get a new one.
To the best of my knowledge there is only ONE source connection and 2 internal connections that would connect to the water inlet valve assembly. This almost sounds like someone removed the inlet water valve and left it off of the unit. (Or.. the water valve was never connected at all)
The plastic tubing just presses into each of the water inlet water valve holes. you have a 50/50 chance of getting the connections correct if they are not labeled. If it is connected incorrectly when you depress water dispense the ice maker will over fill with water. (Swap the connections)
The inlet water valve will look just like this one. It will have 2 inside connections and one external connection. (see link) http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/1E1A1B9.jpg
There should also be Two black and flat 2 pin electrical connectors dangling if the water valve was removed.
Take a look and let me know if your water valve is missing.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly
Your carb has two hose connections, one is the inlet and the other is the return. The inlet (suction side) won't have any barbs on it (smooth brass pipe). The return side will have barbs to keep the hose from popping off if the line is plugged and is probably plastic. The inlet side should connect to the fuel filter that will be dangling from the hose inside the tank. Make sure the filter is free to move around the inside bottom of the tank
yes u can install it at the top of the drawers but check the gas connection before closing the drawers to make sure ther no problem,the inlet gas connection is in rigth side facing to u.
1) After shutting off the water and gas or power supply to the tank, connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank, open the valve, and run it to a nearby drain or outdoors. Use two wrenches to unscrew the inlet and outlet fittings from the top of the tank. 2) For a gas water heater, shut off the gas inlet valve and use two wrenches to disconnect the union or flare fitting between the gas supply pipe and the inlet valve. Also remove the flue hat that expels gasses into the flue at the top of the tank. 3) After removing the old unit, set the new one in place with the controls and burner accessible. Allow at least 6 inches of clearance around its perimeter, and keep it away from flammable materials. Use a level to check it for plumb; shim the base with pieces of asphalt shingles or plastic wedges. 4) Wrap the threads of the heat trap fittings with pipe-wrap tape, and screw the fittings into the water heater (blue into the cold water inlet and red into the hotwater outlet). Be sure the arrows marked on the fittings point in the direction of water flow. 5) Install new flexible connectors on the water inlet and outlet pipes. If there is no shutoff valve on the cold water side, install one before connecting the water heater. After all connections are complete, open the shutoff valve to fill the tank. While it is filling, open several hot water faucets in the house to bleed off air in the pipes. 6) Assemble the gas pipes as shown. Spread pipe dope on the threads, and screw together the parts, tightening them with one pipe wrench on the pipe and another on the fitting. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for connecting the unit with gas supply tubing. After turning on the gas, test all connections by brushing soapy water on them and watching for bubbles.
There is a vent at the back of the machine near the top that is covered by a small round white plastic cross pattern. Inside of the machine there is a black flexible hose that attaches to the vent from the top of the outer tub. inside of the tub attachment point is supposed to be a light blue plastic valve that looks like an old style army helmet on a peg. The peg fits into a flange in the opening on the outer tub. If this valve is missing water will escape from the vent on the back of the machine.
Another likely point of water leak is a loose inlet hose or missing washer on the inlet hose.
×