How to clean ozone plates - Alpine Air XL-15 Air Purifier

Those devices use a process call IONIZATION to clean the air. What this does is make high voltage that jumps out into the air and attaches to particles in the air. Those particles are now attracted to anything with an opposite charge. In some machines there is a plate that has the opposite charge and a fan that pulls the air into the machine. When particles that are charged come into the machine, they are drawn to that plate and stick. The plate gets dirty pretty fast and has to be cleaned. The problem comes when the ionizer begins to spark. This creates ozone and ozone is harmful to people and animals, rubber and many other things. I looked up the name of the machine that you listed and the closest I can find is a really old reference to a radio shack device. the Environizer™ (630-0612/630-0613) This device was made just after regulation by the federal government that says 50 parts per billion is the limit so that device SHOULD be ok. However it has to be maintained and cared for. There is a great article here:http://www.allergyclean.com/problems-with-ozone-generators-and-ionizers-that-produce-ozone/
Just keep in mind the difference between ozone generators and air ionizers, they are not the same thing. If you need more info let me know.

Did you clean the plate contacts with alcohol? How old is the plate? Is the glue that holds the grid in place turning brown? If it is, it may need to be replaced. Call (336) 499-2505 and ask for free email supplemental cleaning instructions before you do anything else. The instructions may help you solve the problem.

OK- The plate needs brushing with a bristle brush to get the oxidized crystals and grime off it. If you don't, it will not create ozone. I never use water any more, it rusts the plate eventually. Rust also stops the process. I use rubbing alcohol. Cheap and safer than ammonia...MUCH safer. Blow dry. The only bulb is the radio wave ionization indicator bulb, attached to the round antenna-looking thing. You should wipe the ionizers off with alcohol every 6 months too. If they are gunked up they don't work nearly as well. Look up the Living Air Classic manual.

The Classic XL-15 should have 2 individual indicator lights. The 'red' light is the ionizer indicator, and the 'green' light is the ozone level indicator. Both lights should be illuminated, if the unit is operating properly. The red light should be pulsing, and the green light should be dimly lit, and brightened as the output knob is turned up - indicating a higher ozone production. If the green light is not lit, you likely won't smell the ozone. The first thing you should try, is cleaning the filter and glass ozone plate. Unplug the unit and remove the rear air filter. Clean the filter with clean water and allow to COMPLETELY air dry. Removed the glass plate by depressing the lever behind the glass plate, and gently pulling it out. Clean the glass with a half water, half ammonia (or distilled white vinegar, if ammonia not available) and an old toothbrush to clean between the mesh. Dry plate with a hair dryer and re-place plate into unit. Replace dried air filter, making sure the little tab on the bottom is secured into the interlock. Power the unit on and you should see the indicator lights and smell the fresh ozone!

You can pull off the rear filter, pull the ozone plates, defeat the safety interlock, turn the unit on, and place a screw driver (holding the plastic handle) one one of the ozone bars, and try to make an arc between the screwdriver and the other bar.

If you get an arc, the ozone plates are dirty. Clean well with a brush and sudsy ammonia. If no arc, either the hv transformer is bad, the main circuit board is bad, or the ozone control is bad.

There's one other thing you can check: The two wires that connect to the ozone bars can arc to the chassis sometimes. You can inspect the insulation on those wires to make sure it is intact.

Call toll free 1-877-710-0057 between 8: 00 AM and 5:00 PM Eastern time and they will gladly help you.

Hi lawrsports,

I generally use household ammonia and an old toothbrush, rinsing thouroughly in clean water, and drying them thoroughly. And I do mean _thoroughly_, as-in bone-dry, use a hair dryer if in-doubt.

Putting anything wet, or even damp into a high-voltage environment is contra-indicated.

If I can be of further assistance, let me know. If this solves the issue, please rate it accordingly.

Thanks in-advance for using Fixya.com,

Jon

Hello fleamrk,

Several possiblities here. Not static sound means the plasma discharge plates aren't energized.

1) Missing, cracked or defective discharge plate (you say you cleaned the filter - did you mean the lint screen in back, or the glass or white ceramic plate inside)? No plate, no ozone (O3) production.

2) Bad connection in the high voltage leads*.

3) Bad electrical components*.

*I'm not an electrician, and recommend that only qualified personnel troubleshoot high voltage electronic, both for safety, and for preventing further damage to circuitry. Visible problems, such as corroded or broken terminals that can be swapped when it's de-energized (unplugged) is one thing; having to dig deeper into the electronics is something that I expect to rapidly end up costing more than it's worth.

Mine has a switch lower right hand side that will stop the ozone.

My XL-15 had the same problem a few years ago. I had a broken wire on the fan, and the Ozone problem turned out to be a problem with the power supply. I had to send it in to have it repaired.