Question about Frigidaire Dryers

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Electric Dryer Model No# FDEB23RGS0

We have a dryer that will rn, however the last three days, it is not heating. We read the book regarding the house fuse in the dryer circuit and was wanting to know if there is a circuit in the dryer somewhere, or if it is the fuse in the breaker box.

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Anonymous

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Your issue is as follows;
"We have a dryer that will rn, however the last three days, it is not heating. We read the book regarding the house fuse in the dryer circuit and was wanting to know if there is a circuit in the dryer somewhere, or if it is the fuse in the breaker box."

Thank you for providing a valid model number!

Following this link, http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx, provides exploded view imagery, belt routing diagrams, parts imagery and function, parts ordering and shipping information, error code details, just about anything you need to get your appliance up and running again. Just follow the links to navigate through the site.

You will need to enter the model number stamped on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the User’s Manual. to access your product information.


If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Temperature Switch; make sure a positive heat selection has been made. Then check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Tip: A volt-ohm meter is a valuable tool for diagnosing circuitry concerning this issue.
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element: Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Follow ths link for a wiring digram for your dryer:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?&model_id=109464&diagram_id=245558&NewWindow=1

Follow this link for an image of the heating element:

http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=407685&PPStack=1


Follow this link for an image of the terminal block kit:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=916788&PPStack=1


In an effort to improve my quality of answers, please show your appreciation by rating the effectiveness of my answer.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

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Cu ft maytag performa


make this tests and fix it. God bless you

Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating Element

Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The proper ohm reading can be found in the service manual or sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on your dryer (9- 13 ohms is a common reading). Electric heating elements aren't repairable. The heating element replace it.

Thermal fuse / Thermal Cut Out / Thermistor

On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front cover . The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing They are also round and made of metal and plastic. The thermistor is located on the blower housing usually. If any of the fuses do not have continuity replace it. Check for continuity if none replace, But before replacing check for obstructions. The fuses are very inexpensive and replace it

Wiring

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. Check all connections, make sure they are tight. Loose connections can lead to a fire. You may need to replace power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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2 Answers

80 series kenmore dryer wont heat - blows cold air during drying cycle. Dryer is all electric.


Hi,
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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2 Answers

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Hello there:
There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. No Heat issue in dryer is usually caused due to three things mainly: Thermal Fuse, Wiring Harness and/or Heating Element. Start with checking the Thermal Fuse which ismounted inside the back cover panel to the exhaust duct and is mounted in white plastic housing. If thats fine then the Heating Element should be checked. Please do revert for further assistance.


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1 Answer

Dryer will not heat up


Hi fairiesinfli,

Check the below:

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it.

Regards
R.K.

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Firstly, make sure you have selected/ascertained a heat setting, then read on from the checklist below, supplied by; www.repairclinic.com

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

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1 Answer

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Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to Good luck

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1 Answer

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Based on your complaint; "I have an older 70 series dryer. I was working fine and then my last load of clothes didn't dry. The dryer did not get hot,"

Temperature Switch:
Make sure a positive heat selection has been made. Then check these:

This information is for an electric, generic model dryer only!


If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

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3 Answers

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If the power to the machine is OK then check these items.......
Before you begin, UNPLUG DRYER.
Remove bottom access panel by using a putty knife to depress panel clips (item 46).
7b869c5.jpg

Check the High limit fuse and heater for continuity. Heater (item 14) <20 ohms and HI-limit (item 47) <0.3 ohms.
d57be2a.jpg
If the heater or HI-Limit has failed it may be that the exhaust air flow has become blocked or restricted. Check the hose in the back of the machine for crushed hose. If OK, the vent pipe may need cleaning... check out www.linteater.com for vent cleaning info.

If you need further assistance please let me know..
Regards
reg501
The FixYa Team

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Frigidaire faqe7011lw0 dryer having issues, not heating up and shuts off after 10 minutes My dryer model number is faqe7011lw0. It seems to start up, and then after about 10 minutes, consistently, it shuts off and has a bunch of blinking lights on the right side of the control panel. It started off with an error code of E4A which states "The drying time has exceeded program time for that cycle". I got that code to go away and then i got another code of "E4B" which states "Temperature reading of control thermistor has not changed in a certain amount of time". The second error code makes more sense because I notice in the 10 minutes that it runs, there seems to be no heat, so i feel something is causing the dryer to not heat up. The troubleshooting for this states to test a relay on the control panel, but I wanted to see if anyone else had this issue before. The weird thing about this is, if I run the dryer empty, the cycle completes the whole way through, but with wet clothes, it shuts off exactly at 10 minutes, no matter what cycle i set it to. I thought maybe this was a sign I had too large of a load in, so I took out about half the clothes, and ran it then. I still got the same issue. So I am kind of confused why when I run it empty, I get the full cycle with no error code, but with anything in the dryer at all, it stops after 10 minutes and gives me an error code. FYI, I have check the exhaust too to make sure it isn't clogged with lint, and it is wide open.

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