At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If the whirring noise goes up and down based on engine speed then it is a weak ground connection. Also, if you have amps (I have a Kicker mono-block running a cheap MTX 2 by 10" subs,and Kicker 4 channel amp running 4 kicker speakers). I promise I won't say "Kicker" one more time!
I have a whirring noise too just like yours. There are a lot of electronics and wireless devices in modern cars these days that are going to interfere with your audio electronics...especially cell phones operating through the audio system. I can't stress that enough. Cell phones operate through powerful towers which is why they can be so tiny. As you talk the whirring will go up and down based on Tranter level and distance to tower. Hope this helps. I have 1000 watts, so it tends to drown out any minor whirring. LOL.
Protection circuits respond to overloads. Unless the protection circuit is faulty there is probably something wrong with the power amp parts located on the heat sink. It would be a good idea to have the top cover off (on power) and listen for that noise to try and pin it down what is making it.
I have a similar problem, I have the same model number, mine is too cold in the the refrigerator but has the same " whirring/click noise" .I have removed the back cover and observed the condenser fan motor cycling on and off in 10 second or so intervals. the compressor is not trying to start so my guess is the control board is bad. I was hoping you have solved your problem before I buy a $250.00 part or a new "Frig" this one is 8 years old. Lil help?
I Don't have much experiance with front loaders but when you said it makes a whirring noise and won't spin leads me to believe that the coupling to the motor and transmission is bad. These are a simple rubbre coupling and they wear out over time.This is where I would look first.
your air compressor pump is going. My car is actually currently doing the same exact thing. It will eventually lock up. BUT if you're lucky, you may just be low on R-13a (coolant)
that is the fan on start-up and the high pitch is the power supply components heating up make shure that the main fan is working always it will be slow at low volume if it quits you run the risk of the power supply failing
Sounds like a bad torque converter. When the torque converter is engaged, it's not "whirring" it's on decel or freewheel that it "whirs".Did you check fluid level and color?
×