I havea 1995 Ford Fiesta and the indictor lamps(front and rear) only work on the right hand side, if you try to indicator to turn left you just get a ticking from behind the instrument panel and neither lamps are flashing.

I can tell exactly but what you need to do have a test lamp, remove plug from the rear right lamp, switch off all lights, switch on ignition switch and switch on right indicator then ground test lamp and test the plug terminals one by one, the one that flikle that's the right indicator and you can tell which colour is indicator

Clean all bulb contacts with electrical connector spray and scour with wire wool ,should do the trick.
Failing that take out the light cluster and check the contact pathways for a break in them , clean all circuits and inside the bulb holder .

In the diagram for rear lamp, the top wires are voltage, the bottom black wire is ground. The brown wire on either side should be tail lamps, goes hot when you turn on the headlamp switch. The other top wire on either should be for turn signal. With everything turned on, is there voltage on that wire?
Because the front works and the rear don't, possible wiring circuit problem? The voltage for turn signals comes from bcm. The bcm knows when you turn on turn signal switch, either side, then the bcm sends voltage to turn signal lamp at the rear and front.

all else on car works perfectly (other shoe drops??????)
waring 1: no scan tool, you will fail (99%)
is battery fully charged to 12.6vdc rested or at 10v?
all 4 corners dead?
not working means dead?, flashes too fast/slow or dim? or they stick on? (5 modes to fail not counting L/R and haz)
do the hazards work? (prime evidence and not stated)
most cars before 2007 have fuse marked TURN.
but not this car... its not at all like older cars....
did you scan it first after the fuse tests? any PCM scan tool.?
2009 WK jeep
the FSM chapter 8L shows the huge list of errors the lamps can fail. DTC errors.
in fact 8 blinker codes, ! DTC errors,

there is no fuse, just for turns, (trailer lamps fuse 19)

read this excerpt from the FSM book.

The turn signal system operates on battery current received on a fused ignition switch output (run) circuit so that the
turn signals will only operate with the ignition switch in the On position. The hazard warning system operates on
non-switched battery current received on a fused B(+) circuit so that the hazard warning remains operational regardless
of the ignition switch position. When the turn signal system is activated, the circuitry of the left multi-function
switch and the FCM will cause the selected (right or left) turn signal indicator, front park/turn signal lamp, front side
marker lamp and rear tail/stop/turn signal lamp to flash on and off. When the hazard warning system is activated,
the circuitry of the hazard warning switch and the FCM will cause both the right side and the left side turn signal
indicators, front park/turn signal lamps, front side marker lamps and rear tail/stop/turn signal lamps to flash on and
off. The Front Control Module (FCM) can also activate the hazard warning system lamps.
end quote)

the module front control MFC, runs this
and it uses fuse 18 , if 18 blows the module goes off line and vast things fail and huge numbers OF DTCs store.
and fuse 27 MFC
MFC needs these fuses good.
keep in mind nobody has MFC internal schematics...so........



this module drives left and right side front and rear.
electronic drivers, not fuses.
the MFC is here.
the fuses are 12,13,18, 20,27 that power MFC.


ground this end.

why skip RR lamp? what does IT DO? be like 1st 1st look.
dim, out, fast?

the rapid is talking to you
it means current is wrong,
shorted, or open lines. to the right.
its the wiring
if the bulbs are like 1157 brass base bulbs
why not replace them first , they can short inside,
asking online for guessing is silly, why listen to 10 examples for this.
but is cut wires.
shorted wires.
keep i mind the blinker asks funny for both opens and shorts
its a feature, that.
low current or too much.

the acid test is connect 2 TEST bulbs in parallel to the multi-function switch output right side,
blinks ok now, bingo bad lamps or bad wiring, from there to the right side.

if the hazard fails you never said????
if rigth front is dim or dead the bulb is blown or shorted
if new bulb there , then the wires are shorted.
to it.
the only help on line worth squat is how to test and use your meter.
you can, check for voltage
you can check continuity on that line (its just 1 wire)
and check for shorts on that wire to ground (lamps pulled right side to do that, lamps read 0 ohms cold)
look for collision damage RF? behind lamp sockets?
be first.
in my book.
looking is always first. sure.


I have your SM book open now, chapter 8w-50
the haz/blink module has just 2 pins, left and right out.
pin 3 on the module runs front and rear blinks, (a fact to know)
RF is BR/RD, brown -red stripe?
all comments USA on USA forum. USA car.
ok?

the right side lamp (sidemaker) only blinks turns if parks ARE oFF

Id try 2 new blinker lamps front and 1 rear.
that be first. or test the lamp on a battery , and no not get burned fingers hot wring a shorted lamp.

wish i knew
what rear did
and what both did on HAZ
out, dim or to fast.

In my case the left front turn indicator lamp worked, but not the left rear indicator, although all the lamps would turn on with running lights activated, as well as the backup light and 'night-light' mode. The left rear turn indicator would not work with the hazard lights activated. I tested the combination switch (this is the left/right turn indicator switch you use when driving to indicate which direction you are going and is mounted/located on the steering column) and it tested O.K.. I had good continuity from the combination switch black wire, and resistance on the blue-white wire from there to the left rear turn indicator lamp, as well as good continuity on all wires going out from the left parking light fuse. Since the Haynes manual indicated that the flasher module was probably good if it made the tell-tale clicking sound, I was feeling perplexed. So I took it into a local shop that specialized in auto electrics and it turned out to be the flasher module. I was under the impression that it operated in a straight-forward left-right manner, but apparently it has a different circuit for each turn indicator lamp. So even if it is making the appropriate clicking sound when the combo switch is flipped, it could still be the flasher module. Obviously the manual leaves a bit to be desired in the troubleshooting of malfunctioning turn indicators.

If this is not working on the right side and is OK on the left side then one of the indicator lamps on the right side has blown out. The reduced load on the right hand indicators causes the flasher can to flash faster.
Try turning on the hazard switch then walk around your car to see which lamp has blown out.

check the socket the bulb goes into

No power to the glow plugs means no power to the light also. You have a bad fuse or connection to the glow plug relay. Fix that and your good to go. Has nothing to do with your indicator lights on either side of dash. Glow Plug power indicator is labeled THAT and only that.

First check the fuse of the indicator ,it may have been blown ...



Good luck...